Help - Subwoofer selection

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Hi,

This isn't strictly a DIY build question, but I was hoping your knowledge design and of drive, units would be able to guide me in the right direction.

I am currently using Troels Gravesen Audio Technology Classic 3 Way speakers. I am very happy with those speakers but would like more bottom end.

I am no longer able to build my own speaker, I'm looking at either a flat pack kit or a ready made subwoofer. I was thinking of purchasing two BK XLS200 MK2 Subwoofers placed directly under the speakers. I would use "springs" under them as per my speakers to help with Isolation. XLS200-FF


My main concern is in the past with other speakers I found subwoofers very slow and bloated compared to the main speakers. As I consider the drive units in my speakers to be of high quality, I'm worried that perhaps these subwoofer are not good enough and will stand out, are they simply too cheap and old (they have been out for circa 10 years+, I think).

I don't want to use a large subwoofer to the side, so that's why I'm looking at two smaller ones I could use underneath my existing speakers. I have a budget of circa £1000, am I kidding myself that this is sufficient to get a good enough subwoofer?

Any opinions or alternatives would be much appreciated. Thank you

Photo here of setup : https://i.ibb.co/P4rkG53/MVIMG-20210115-203840.jpg
 
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In my experience, the quality of the bass is very dependent on the room. It's possible (and indeed, likely) that the boomy/bloated bass you've heard from subwoofers has been down to a subwoofer being designed for a flat anechoic response.

When you place such a subwoofer in a room, there'll be peaks and dips, as well as a general increasing trend towards the bottom end.

As a result, I'd always recommend DSP-based solutions for integrating subwoofers. DSP will mean some EQ options, as well as delays etc for good integration with the main speakers.


The BK subwoofers you've linked, combined with DSP and some measurements, should yield excellent results.


Chris
 
Another reason for subwoofers sounding slow, is that a lot of people don't (or aren't able to) delay the mains. The sub plate amp (and DSP features?) will have an inherent delay, then people use the phase knob to get it in phase as best as possible which delays it even further, now the sub can be lagging the mains by enough to sound slow. I'd argue it's very important to have a mains amp that has a "distance" configuration to allow time delay of the mains and perfect phase alignment at the crossover of the sub/mains.
 
With a grand, you could get some some very high quality drivers, and amp, go DIY route.

I have a ported dual Peerless XLS with a crown XLS amp, total cost less than a grand. I'm now upgrading the drivers to SEAS XM001-04 (L26ROY) and total cost still less than a grand (not including the cost of the minidsp and mic).

Really depends what you want and if you're willing to go DIY route.

Retail subs are rubbish and overpriced. Its typical for a sub in a show room costing a grand for example, that you can buy the driver for £100 and the amp for £100, so it's easy to buy wood and glue for less than £800 if you're willing to design and build. Not the same with BK, their subs would be double the price if sold at retail outlets/high street (outlets would bung on anoth 100% cost for their margins)
 
I had a similar problem to yours (albeit with a much lower quality system). My floor-standing speakers lacked bottom end. I purchase a pair of Audica Professional - MICROsub . Two were great for aesthetic purposes but I was unable to achieve a satisfactory dynamic balance. They still sit below my main speakers but only one is actually active.

I'd recommend a pair of SW10 STUDIO - Professional Audio - Display collection - INNOVATION ROAD - Yamaha Corporation if you can find them (discontinued). The HS8S Yamaha HS8S 8 Inch Powered Studio Subwoofer - Yamaha HS8S - YouTube is supposed to be good to.
 
Ok, I did say I could be wrong, and you reply saying "what do you know" So I incorrectly googled, thought it was a £350 sub. Turns out it is a £750 sub - I would expect the driver to be worth about £75, same for the amp if it's active.

Maybe it is good for studio purposes, great. If that's what the original poster is looking for, I'm sure he'll be delighted with your recommendation.
 
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