The Logitech z623 system came to an end when the control pod switches started to not work properly. Tried to fix but nope.......crushed more surface mount components than able to replace.
Sooooo... the subwoofer was more than my listening room could use (at reasonable levels) and there is a bad room resonance around 60hz.
So I removed the sub driver from the cabinet and set about to build a replacement cabinet with new class D amplification.
Progress reports to follow.....
Sooooo... the subwoofer was more than my listening room could use (at reasonable levels) and there is a bad room resonance around 60hz.
So I removed the sub driver from the cabinet and set about to build a replacement cabinet with new class D amplification.
Progress reports to follow.....
The goal is augment my mMar-Kel70s. I will be happy with 40hz which the original sub could do.
With no parameters for the driver, I decided to use the basic volume of the original box - about 17.4 litres or 0.614 cu ft. I also wanted to use a slot port instead of the original round port.
I found a port calculator image on this forum but can't remember which thread so I will post the image here.
After making an excel sheet to do the math, I have drawn the plan.
With no parameters for the driver, I decided to use the basic volume of the original box - about 17.4 litres or 0.614 cu ft. I also wanted to use a slot port instead of the original round port.
I found a port calculator image on this forum but can't remember which thread so I will post the image here.
After making an excel sheet to do the math, I have drawn the plan.
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It's not that simple, as there are no published specs of the driver you (or someone) need to measure it to get the specs. Only from the specs you can determine the right cabinet for it. Search someone who can measure the driver (or if you have Dats or Clio or so, do it yourself) and start from there from scratch. Now you're shooting in the dark.
I know that this method is not ideal without driver specs but I figure that the original box was designed for the driver so we shall see how close this "dead reckoning" approach gets me. If nothing else, it is fun to make the excel formulas and then play with the variables to see the calculated outcome....
The original box was 1/2" mdf and this one is 18mm baltic birch.
The original box was 1/2" mdf and this one is 18mm baltic birch.
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Well, a round port reacts different than a slot, so it needs an other length than a slot. What will hapen is that the tuning of the port is not right. Box size could also not be ideal as commercial speakers are more build on size and looks than on specs, especially this kind of speakers. But you could try off course...
Well it is together....but there is no bass. Driver isn't moving with 50hz signal and barely moving with 60hz.
I suspect the amp needs some modding as per John Audio Tech (TPA3116 audio amplifer board test, review & mod - YouTube).
I suspect the amp needs some modding as per John Audio Tech (TPA3116 audio amplifer board test, review & mod - YouTube).
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