I'm interested in seeing what other people have done to incorporate subwoofers or large speakers into furniture for saving space. I just built my 1st enclosure yesterday for a 12" sub. Being a beginner, it's sealed and pretty big, 38 x 48 x 61cm to get a flatter response. The XED12V2 has Qts=0.55, and needs a 153 liter enclosure to get 0.707 Qtc. It sounds loud even with a small 100W TPA3116 amp.
Being a huge fan of making things multipurpose, it occurred to me I could've just bought and modified a storage cabinet, which would allow storage in addition to being a table.
I looked at the offerings on hidemysubwoofer.com but none of them allow storage. I'm trying to think what type of gasket you can use to seal the doors and what other issues you'll encounter.
Being a huge fan of making things multipurpose, it occurred to me I could've just bought and modified a storage cabinet, which would allow storage in addition to being a table.
I looked at the offerings on hidemysubwoofer.com but none of them allow storage. I'm trying to think what type of gasket you can use to seal the doors and what other issues you'll encounter.
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Going back over 10 years now and no longer in existence, I built a pair of subwoofers into the end cabinets in a row of IKEA cabinets and used the middle cabinet as a stereo rack for the gear. This worked pretty well actually and the volume for 12" subs was perfect. To make the cabinet into an enclosure I installed a panel behind the doors, used a spare shelf as the top panel, and then sealed up all the leak points. Pics attached.
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Over the years I've put bass drivers in all kinds of furniture. The biggest problem is that things are going to rattle and stuff is going to move. I once incorporated a 12" subwoofer into a hi-fi rack, and had to secure the amp with double-sided tape.
My best result came when I put some thought into - pick a storage device that stores things can't move or rattle. The answer was an Ottoman.
Insert 2 x 8" downward facing drivers into floor. Separate into two equal chambers using 150mm riser as bracing. Secure new false floor above. Insert ports at both ends.
Truly multifunctional furniture: blanket box / bedroom seat / subwoofer.
My best result came when I put some thought into - pick a storage device that stores things can't move or rattle. The answer was an Ottoman.
Insert 2 x 8" downward facing drivers into floor. Separate into two equal chambers using 150mm riser as bracing. Secure new false floor above. Insert ports at both ends.
Truly multifunctional furniture: blanket box / bedroom seat / subwoofer.
1. I built a three-duct labyrinth tight around a 15 inch driver in the base and going near to the ceiling. Hardly invisible but hardly takes much floor spare. Part of design was to put exit port as far from driver as I could. Goes to 12 Hz.
17 foot pipe sub 12-230 Hz ±5dB
2. Boxes do not have to be sealed. Leaky boxes are abhorrent to the wannabee engineer but they are really quite a smart design. Conceptually, a labyrinth is to a TL as a leaky box is to a sealed box. You gotta start thinking of the rear wave more creatively than just the 5 official textbook models: sequestering it by any means is good even if not quite as good as a true horn.
3. I hid a large panel open baffle sub by attaching the baffle to the legs of a table. Those were the legs near the wall but far enough from the wall to make an OK acoustic path. The driver was mounted facing the wall (that is, under the table).
B.
17 foot pipe sub 12-230 Hz ±5dB
2. Boxes do not have to be sealed. Leaky boxes are abhorrent to the wannabee engineer but they are really quite a smart design. Conceptually, a labyrinth is to a TL as a leaky box is to a sealed box. You gotta start thinking of the rear wave more creatively than just the 5 official textbook models: sequestering it by any means is good even if not quite as good as a true horn.
3. I hid a large panel open baffle sub by attaching the baffle to the legs of a table. Those were the legs near the wall but far enough from the wall to make an OK acoustic path. The driver was mounted facing the wall (that is, under the table).
B.
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Research NEMA 4x enclosure design, which must be vapor proof in potentially explosive areas of mines/whatever.
GM
Yep, one or more in each end of a sofa, coffee table/whatever wired in phase. Personally like DSL's THSpud to mount a sofa to, but can be other, simpler speaker alignments too: THSpud | Danley Sound Labs, Inc.
GM
This is the right approach. A rigid cabinet with the drivers opposed but frames mechanically coupled would result in very little vibration.
I had a GL75 turntable sat on top of a 2x12" subwoofer for a while. Zero LF feedback, because the sub was dual-opposed and didn't vibrate.
Chris
Subwoofer in Furniture?
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=866645&stc=1&d=1596917850
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=866646&stc=1&d=1596917850
Restarted work on this, good pandemic project.
Wife says front must look like it did before.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=866645&stc=1&d=1596917850
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=866646&stc=1&d=1596917850
Restarted work on this, good pandemic project.
Wife says front must look like it did before.
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I want to recall an old thread on a Swedish hifi forum named "the ikea challange" where the object was to identify suitable furinture candidates and modify them to accomodate various speakers, even sub/sat solutions where made, indistinguishable from the origonal appearance taking normal usage/placement in a room into account, invisible speakers in other words, quite intresting, and the WAF was through the roof 
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