Scan-Speak Revelator 32W/4878T, 2 ea. sealed enclosures
I am building a pair of Scan-Speak 32W/4878T’s in 1.5 cubic foot sealed enclosure’s and with the rear wall made out of a Baltic Birch/MDF laminate and finished with ¼ inch red oak, I would need binding posts with a shaft at least 2 inches long, 2 ½ or longer would be even better.
Does such a thing exist? North Creek Music used to sell “Big Posts”, or a name close to that but George Short has closed shop many years ago.
I assume I will need to use SpeakON Chassis mount connectors which isn’t a problem, I would just prefer standard binding posts; would make it easier to move subs around without having to wire SpeakON ends on the speaker wire every time I move them, especially with all the in-wall speaker cable already in place.
Thanks.
The first enclosure is glued and getting cleaned up before I finish the sides, top and bottom in 1/4 in. x 6 in. Red Oak boards and a front fascia made out of 1 in. x 4 in. Red Oak boards.The inside is covered in sawdust for now.
I am building a pair of Scan-Speak 32W/4878T’s in 1.5 cubic foot sealed enclosure’s and with the rear wall made out of a Baltic Birch/MDF laminate and finished with ¼ inch red oak, I would need binding posts with a shaft at least 2 inches long, 2 ½ or longer would be even better.
Does such a thing exist? North Creek Music used to sell “Big Posts”, or a name close to that but George Short has closed shop many years ago.
I assume I will need to use SpeakON Chassis mount connectors which isn’t a problem, I would just prefer standard binding posts; would make it easier to move subs around without having to wire SpeakON ends on the speaker wire every time I move them, especially with all the in-wall speaker cable already in place.
Thanks.
The first enclosure is glued and getting cleaned up before I finish the sides, top and bottom in 1/4 in. x 6 in. Red Oak boards and a front fascia made out of 1 in. x 4 in. Red Oak boards.The inside is covered in sawdust for now.
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Another question; any experience or thoughts on a QSC PLD4.2 as an amp to dive these? I have a lightly used one I can pick up but I am building a quality 2-channel system and want to be sure the amp is up to snuff with the rest of the system.
I would want to disable any DSP and could bridge but not sure I need to.
PLD4.2 Power Amplifier with DSP - QSC
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/32w-4878t00.pdf
Thank you.
I would want to disable any DSP and could bridge but not sure I need to.
PLD4.2 Power Amplifier with DSP - QSC
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/32w-4878t00.pdf
Thank you.
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I am realizing I'll need to use SpeakON connectors. For some reason the last time I installed them I used 4 pole and just wired one pair. I don't remember if that was all that available or not, it has been awhile. I assume 2 pole would be easier and work fine? Seems obvious.
Just need to make sure the speaker wire connections are inside , in the middle, of the connector.
I used them on an 18" LMS 5400 and a pair of 15" LMS-R's I use in my home theater.
Just need to make sure the speaker wire connections are inside , in the middle, of the connector.
I used them on an 18" LMS 5400 and a pair of 15" LMS-R's I use in my home theater.
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Why would you want to disable the DSP? It's good stuff IIRC.
Lots of professionals are happy with the QSC PLD line, and I can't see you having any issues with it.
Chris
PS - Use SpeakOns for everything. 4-pole connectors on the speakers - always. That way, a 2-pole or 4-pole cable can connect.
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I am using an Anthem STR Preamp to handle crossovers and room correction.
Good point on 4-pole, which is what I have used before, still I only use 2, make my own cable terminations and install the connectors and only use/have 2-pair speaker cable.
Thanks
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I picked up the QSC PLD4.2 today. Has less than 9 minutes on the clock if you can trust that. It does look new except a couple light scratches when it was put in a rack. It was just never run.
Need to decide if I want to bridge it or not, QSC recommends Parallel.
Glued the 1/4 in x 6 in oak board on the back of the enclosure and will do a side a day.
Need to decide if I want to bridge it or not, QSC recommends Parallel.
Glued the 1/4 in x 6 in oak board on the back of the enclosure and will do a side a day.
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Yeah, if you're using it as a one-channel amp, I'd put all the channels in parallel. It won't make a whole lot of difference compared to using just one channel, but I'd feel better about it.
Chris
@chris661
It is a 4 channel amp and I have a pair of subs. All 4 channels at 4 ohms it has 400 w continuous and 700 w peak. Probably plenty for the 32W's.
Bridged Parallel at 4 ohms it would provide 800 w continuous to each 32W and 950 W peak. There is also a BTL bridge option but QSC recommended parallel if I bridge at all.
Thanks.
It is a 4 channel amp and I have a pair of subs. All 4 channels at 4 ohms it has 400 w continuous and 700 w peak. Probably plenty for the 32W's.
Bridged Parallel at 4 ohms it would provide 800 w continuous to each 32W and 950 W peak. There is also a BTL bridge option but QSC recommended parallel if I bridge at all.
Thanks.
Hadn't realised you were building a pair of the subs.
Just a quick FWIW that bridging generally means putting the channels in series (BTL) where putting them in parallel means increased current capacity.
I'd parallel the channels down for the extra current, but again, it'd be a psychological thing - the QSC amp will have ample power either way.
Chris
Just a quick FWIW that bridging generally means putting the channels in series (BTL) where putting them in parallel means increased current capacity.
I'd parallel the channels down for the extra current, but again, it'd be a psychological thing - the QSC amp will have ample power either way.
Chris
Glued the last side, the top, yesterday, have the fascia routed and ready to glue as soon as my wife comes home and takes me off puppy duty. I'll need to flush trim the fascia, a bit more difficult then the 1/4 inch sides, might trim a little more off before I glue. I plan on 1/4 inch rounded sides and 3/4" rounded fascia unless I can make a 1 inch work. Next comes final sanding to get ready for stain and final finish.
My wife changed the stain choice in order to match her hardwood floors. I am now using Dura Seal Jacobean, almost as dark as ebony.
Also ordered material to start the second enclosure. I still need to find a source to get some true 1 inched milled red oak boards to match the fascia I am using on the first enclosure.
My wife changed the stain choice in order to match her hardwood floors. I am now using Dura Seal Jacobean, almost as dark as ebony.
Also ordered material to start the second enclosure. I still need to find a source to get some true 1 inched milled red oak boards to match the fascia I am using on the first enclosure.
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