I am looking to add some bass to a small 2.1 bluetooth project. I am going to use the amp listed below
TPS3116D2 Class D 2.1 Bluetooth 5.0 Amplifier Board 2 x 50W + 100W with Filter and Volume Controls
I have mids and highs but need to add bass driver for the .1 channel. Looking for clean sound, nice extension down to about 60hz range and something that wont break the bank. Needs to be small cabinet size of about 0.30cu.ft. (so 0.15 each if using 2 drivers) I would like to stick with ordering from Parts Express if possible...they have always been great.
Unless somebody knows of a super small enclosure 6.5", I am looking at 5.25" drivers. I saw the Tang Band below on a $20 open box special, but they disappeared and sold out.
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
Then I saw these Peerless and thought they looked great. For $43 I can get two of them and would be the same price as a single TB
Peerless by Tymphany SDS-135F25CP02-04 5-1/4" Paper Cone Woofer
1-Has anybody used these and can give feedback?
2-TB seems to extend so much lower than Peerless. Even ported the Peerless seems not to go that deep...why?
3-I prefer the simplicity of sealed, but in sealed the Peerless F3 of 114hz seems ridiculously high. Do I need to just break down and make ported?
4-If ported, has anybody used the Peerless and willing to share box and port dimensions.
Thanks
TPS3116D2 Class D 2.1 Bluetooth 5.0 Amplifier Board 2 x 50W + 100W with Filter and Volume Controls
I have mids and highs but need to add bass driver for the .1 channel. Looking for clean sound, nice extension down to about 60hz range and something that wont break the bank. Needs to be small cabinet size of about 0.30cu.ft. (so 0.15 each if using 2 drivers) I would like to stick with ordering from Parts Express if possible...they have always been great.
Unless somebody knows of a super small enclosure 6.5", I am looking at 5.25" drivers. I saw the Tang Band below on a $20 open box special, but they disappeared and sold out.
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
Then I saw these Peerless and thought they looked great. For $43 I can get two of them and would be the same price as a single TB
Peerless by Tymphany SDS-135F25CP02-04 5-1/4" Paper Cone Woofer
1-Has anybody used these and can give feedback?
2-TB seems to extend so much lower than Peerless. Even ported the Peerless seems not to go that deep...why?
3-I prefer the simplicity of sealed, but in sealed the Peerless F3 of 114hz seems ridiculously high. Do I need to just break down and make ported?
4-If ported, has anybody used the Peerless and willing to share box and port dimensions.
Thanks
CES CW-8620SD 8" DVC Shielded Subwoofer Driver 8 Ohm Per Coil
Would be a bit peaky/high q (unless aperiodic), but should work okay in .3 cuft. Certainly more output if you can add in a linkwitz transform.
Would be a bit peaky/high q (unless aperiodic), but should work okay in .3 cuft. Certainly more output if you can add in a linkwitz transform.
Have a look at this one...
Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm
Web page suggests 42 Hz from a 0.5 cu.ft. enclosure. Qts is nice and low though, so I'd be tempted to sim it in something slightly smaller with different tuning, just to see if it works.
Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm
Web page suggests 42 Hz from a 0.5 cu.ft. enclosure. Qts is nice and low though, so I'd be tempted to sim it in something slightly smaller with different tuning, just to see if it works.
Why 60Hz? And why 5.25 when a 6.5 will work in that volume?
Peerless/Tymphany 830946 plays great in 10L (0.33cu ft) including port tuned to 40Hz. Solid bass down to F3 of around 36Hz in the box I used. If you want more punch and less extension tune it higher.
I had my, quite flat, sub screwed to the bottom of my desk (below my laptop). Made a couple of speakers with 3" fullrangers in Munny dolls, very cool in the early 2000's. Google "Munny doll speaker" and you will see...
Crossed over at 100Hz. With a minidsp I could tune it to sound very nice.
Peerless/Tymphany 830946 plays great in 10L (0.33cu ft) including port tuned to 40Hz. Solid bass down to F3 of around 36Hz in the box I used. If you want more punch and less extension tune it higher.
I had my, quite flat, sub screwed to the bottom of my desk (below my laptop). Made a couple of speakers with 3" fullrangers in Munny dolls, very cool in the early 2000's. Google "Munny doll speaker" and you will see...
Crossed over at 100Hz. With a minidsp I could tune it to sound very nice.
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.
The 60hz is not a specific target. Just looking to add bass below the "thumpy, one-note" region that can be part of consumer systems that people think "sound great"
Original idea of using a 5.25 instead of something bigger was due to design. I was going to us a box of approximately 6x6x16 exterior, so with thickness of enclosure material that would limit to 5.25 drivers.
Now I am considering changing the design to use a 6.5 and bump out one dimension. Do you think a single 6.5 would provide as much SPL as two 5.25? Looks like the 6.5 will certainly play deeper.
Thanks
The 60hz is not a specific target. Just looking to add bass below the "thumpy, one-note" region that can be part of consumer systems that people think "sound great"
Original idea of using a 5.25 instead of something bigger was due to design. I was going to us a box of approximately 6x6x16 exterior, so with thickness of enclosure material that would limit to 5.25 drivers.
Now I am considering changing the design to use a 6.5 and bump out one dimension. Do you think a single 6.5 would provide as much SPL as two 5.25? Looks like the 6.5 will certainly play deeper.
Thanks
Any thoughts on this one?
Peerless by Tymphany SBS-160F35AL01-04 6-1/2" Aluminum Cone Woofer 4 Ohm
Also, aside from Vas, what is the biggest determining factor in ported (or sealed) box size? Is it Qts? As you can probably tell I dabble in speaker building ...not a pro.
Peerless by Tymphany SBS-160F35AL01-04 6-1/2" Aluminum Cone Woofer 4 Ohm
Also, aside from Vas, what is the biggest determining factor in ported (or sealed) box size? Is it Qts? As you can probably tell I dabble in speaker building ...not a pro.
Sorry to be so annoying with so many posts but just noticed that Peerless in my last post looks like it is not in stock and only delivered when they build up enough orders to have it shipped.
ALSO - are any of the suggested woofers reasonably used in a down-firing configuration? What would determine that? I know that some woofers are much more resistant to "sag" over time in a down-firing configuration. I had a few woofers in storage for years only to find the cones pulled way out of position by gravity.
ALSO - are any of the suggested woofers reasonably used in a down-firing configuration? What would determine that? I know that some woofers are much more resistant to "sag" over time in a down-firing configuration. I had a few woofers in storage for years only to find the cones pulled way out of position by gravity.
I'm kind of an anti-specification guy. It's all good on paper but move the sub an inch to the left, or the ambient temperature drops by 3 degrees, or you change the drapes for blinds, or your partner puts on 20lbs - all your calculations go out of the window, and everything sounds different.
There is no real domestic market for small subwoofer drivers (that's why they're so expensive). Regardless, there are thousands around. Every mass produced commercial 2.1 system has one.
I routinely buy used active systems for their strongest component. (1) The plate amp - if all the controls are contained on the amp I can use it in another cabinet. (2) The cabinet - with damping and bracing many mass-produced subs get to prove their worth.
I recently purchased an active sub for around $10. The 5.1 amp offers 35w + 13w x 4. The 5.25" bass driver has been replaced by a 6.5" with awesome results.
However, the weakness was not with original driver - it's conditions were not ideal.
My point: the original driver will go on Ebay. It's only way a citizen will ever be aware of its existence.
5" SubWoofer Driver 8ohms | eBay
There is no real domestic market for small subwoofer drivers (that's why they're so expensive). Regardless, there are thousands around. Every mass produced commercial 2.1 system has one.
I routinely buy used active systems for their strongest component. (1) The plate amp - if all the controls are contained on the amp I can use it in another cabinet. (2) The cabinet - with damping and bracing many mass-produced subs get to prove their worth.
I recently purchased an active sub for around $10. The 5.1 amp offers 35w + 13w x 4. The 5.25" bass driver has been replaced by a 6.5" with awesome results.
However, the weakness was not with original driver - it's conditions were not ideal.
My point: the original driver will go on Ebay. It's only way a citizen will ever be aware of its existence.
5" SubWoofer Driver 8ohms | eBay
You're welcome! Hopefully they help in general. My gut response was how to get you as much displacement as possible in a small package (as you can then play the games electronically to get the response desired), but if it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit.
Hornresp is really a great way to go about testing different ideas, as you can balance out cabinet volume vs output. 2x 5.25 vs 6.5 will come down to the drivers in question. Hard to say in general, albeit it's easier to package more motor and surround into a bigger driver. But greater SD and two motors in the 2x 5.25 case makes me bet you can probably get a better compromise there.
That TB W5-1138SMF looks like the best candidate. It not expensive, and a 5L (0.3147 ft2) sealed case gives an F3 of 55Hz and an good response in room (F6) to 50Hz when i model it. But it won't be loud as it can only handle 40w (wich gives 95dB max).
Like said before, you need to choose 2 out of this 3 factors: small, low going and loud. All 3 toghether does not exist as it's physical not possible.
Like said before, you need to choose 2 out of this 3 factors: small, low going and loud. All 3 toghether does not exist as it's physical not possible.
Waxx- along the lines that you are thinking, I was pondering a design change and using a 6.5 driver. The Dayton would be about the same price as the TB and probably produce more output, play just as low but have a bigger enclosure (but still within new parameters)
DPH - yeah...tough decision between two 5.25 and a single 6. I tried hornresp before and couldnt quite figure out how to use it properly
DPH - yeah...tough decision between two 5.25 and a single 6. I tried hornresp before and couldnt quite figure out how to use it properly
Wolf -- I think I was ordering as you were posting. Those look awesome.
I just pulled the trigger and ultimately decided not to decide.
I got two of the 5.25" Peerless and one of the 6.5" Dayton.
I have another small subwoofer project, a sub for my wife's car, so I figure if the Peerless work out well enough for the small 2.1 project then I can use the Dayton for the car sub or vice-versa.
I am actually quite interested in comparing them in some ported boxes. Dayton has a bit more Xmax but a bit less overall cone area than two Peerless. I think for sound the Dayton might play lower, but output on the two Peerless may be a touch more. Overall I believe either would be a good choice for either of the two projects, so it is just a matter of which one is best suited to each application.
I just pulled the trigger and ultimately decided not to decide.
I got two of the 5.25" Peerless and one of the 6.5" Dayton.
I have another small subwoofer project, a sub for my wife's car, so I figure if the Peerless work out well enough for the small 2.1 project then I can use the Dayton for the car sub or vice-versa.
I am actually quite interested in comparing them in some ported boxes. Dayton has a bit more Xmax but a bit less overall cone area than two Peerless. I think for sound the Dayton might play lower, but output on the two Peerless may be a touch more. Overall I believe either would be a good choice for either of the two projects, so it is just a matter of which one is best suited to each application.
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