This is a very interesting point you make!
I don't like the looks of a passive radiator build, but if I could mount the radiator in a down-firing configuration, meaning only the active driver would be visible, I could probably still accomodate the much needed WAF.
Is this possible, to have the passive radiator mounted in a down-firing position?
Interesting how the enclosure volume can be reduced by using a configuration like this, I like it!
Yes, WinISD will give you these figures quite easily. Hornresp can also do it
A bigger box will basically give you more output below 30Hz.
Thanks, I just cleaned my computer with CCleaner, I think the registry is all set for a new round of a WinISD installation, I quite like the software, but not when it's buggy, I think the issue might be solved now.
I'll have a look myself, thanks again!
I'm quite clueless when it comes to SPL readings and how loud things really are, I'll need to place an order of an SPL meter and throw some bass out there and measure, I'll make sure to get a meter with a 20hz capability.
Yes, perfectly feasible to do so. Just make sure you calculate the parameters and weights correctly to get the optimal sound you desire. Also, if you switch over to the Dayton Audio Reference sub woofers, they also make matching passive radiators that look identical to the speakers.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Wow, I'll ask just one more question as you seem rather keen on helping me.
My OCD and the WAF does not allow for the passive raditor to be visible, hence my question regarding a down-firing configuration.
The driver does not need to look identical to the Ultimax for example, if I place the radiator downwards, or do they need to be of the same cone material to match tonally?
How much complicated is the maths with a radiator configuration, compared to a sealed configuration, what happens with the Qtc etc?
WinISD will take care of it, maybe?
Usually that will not work due to the weight of the PR. It will sag. You can do it the other way around though: mount the woofer down-firing, and the PR on the front. Also note that usually you'll need a bigger PR than the woofer, or two PR's. This will add quite a bit of cost. WinISD will also do PR alignments. You can even calculate the sag of a woofer: https://web.archive.org/web/20050430104235/www.adireaudio.com/Files/TechPapers/DriverOrientation.pdf . Possibly also for the PR.
I don't think that is the issue.. It's just the way WinISD works. You must not enter all parameters, only a subset (of which you have several options). I always enter Qes, Qms, Fs, Vas, MMS, Re, Le, Xmax and Pe. The rest it will to itself. That usually works.
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WinISD is a bit tricky, but once you get it it's a very powerfull tool.
But back to the subject, this Dayton driver is great, but very expensive. Here in Belgium we pay arround 500€ for that driver. I've build a box for someone that is a bit more than double the size (77L) with an SB34NRX75-6 12" that costs 175€ who get the same F3, but better efficiency (90dB vs 88dB). It does not take so much watt as this one and needs a bigger box, but for the rest i think it's a better deal. Or am I missing something?
I'm not trying to diss or question your choice, i'm just try to understand why people like this very expensive driver so much, while there are alternatives...
But back to the subject, this Dayton driver is great, but very expensive. Here in Belgium we pay arround 500€ for that driver. I've build a box for someone that is a bit more than double the size (77L) with an SB34NRX75-6 12" that costs 175€ who get the same F3, but better efficiency (90dB vs 88dB). It does not take so much watt as this one and needs a bigger box, but for the rest i think it's a better deal. Or am I missing something?
I'm not trying to diss or question your choice, i'm just try to understand why people like this very expensive driver so much, while there are alternatives...
You guys have something to clear up, one of you must be right, I would like to trust you both.
Well, not specifically, the “you” should be a more general “anyone”, or possibly the topic starter
it doesn’t really matter for my argument though.Guys, it doesn't matter, everyone will use the software they prefer.
This tip actually worked wonders, WinISD is not that buggy if used correctly.
This tip actually worked wonders, WinISD is not that buggy if used correctly.
Am glad that you get the WinIsd working .
You could search the driver here
Dayton Audio UM12-22 - 12" Subwoofer
then import to the the software desire. Good luck!
You could search the driver here
Dayton Audio UM12-22 - 12" Subwoofer
then import to the the software desire. Good luck!
Attachments
Yes, excellent website, use it all the time!
Some drivers are not there though, always, but using your recommended method for T/S input in WinISD will do the trick.
I actually came up with a quite neat idea regarding where to place the passive radiator.
Placing it downwards is obviously not the way to do it, but directly behind the driver, at the back of the enclosure, the radiator would have direct contact with the driver.
Problem is the plate amp needs to go somewhere, couldn't really throw that on the side, would look stupid with the cables connected.
So, I thought, why not put the plate amp at the lower back of my mains?
Genius, to be frank, could fit a full 12" passive radiator at the back of the subwoofer enclosure, just having a small interconnect going from the mains to the subwoofers.
Ideally you would purchase a standalone amplifier and put next to your receiver, but I don't have the space, by placing the plate amplifiers in my mains I would not even notice them being there.
To the calculators!
P.S. Do you know if Qtc only is for sealed constructions, which parameter determines the 'character' of the bass in passive radiator enclosures?
Thanks.
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