the pipe designed for me by TB46 for a cheap car 12" was pretty good - but had one less fold
La Scala or Belle Bass? - Page 2 - 2-Channel Home Audio - The Klipsch Audio Community
La Scala or Belle Bass? - Page 2 - 2-Channel Home Audio - The Klipsch Audio Community
Duh.
OK, I'm putting on my dunce cap and standing in the corner because I honestly don't know how I missed the simplest and most obvious way to fold this thing; I literally slapped myself in the head when I realized it. No crazy side terminus, no excess bends, easier to deal with the magnet AND it ends up nearly exactly the same size and shape, if not smaller. Seriously, what is wrong with me?? I may even call it the "U-Sub" just for fun. Nice little double meaning... It's shaped like a U, and it works Under the range of the average subwoofer
OK, I'm putting on my dunce cap and standing in the corner because I honestly don't know how I missed the simplest and most obvious way to fold this thing; I literally slapped myself in the head when I realized it. No crazy side terminus, no excess bends, easier to deal with the magnet AND it ends up nearly exactly the same size and shape, if not smaller. Seriously, what is wrong with me?? I may even call it the "U-Sub" just for fun. Nice little double meaning... It's shaped like a U, and it works Under the range of the average subwoofer
Attachments
You might need some serious EQ or DSP to cut off the wild response peaks
(+/- 10 or 15 dB) above 50 Hz on your first post.
I made a pair of Anarchy Tapped Horns, which had a similar response form (low end is around 27 Hz, with wild peaks above 110 Hz). I got one of those miniDSP modules to get rid of all the stuff above that nice flat plateau, and then a plate amp with adjustable crossover, gain, and phase to help match up with my 2-way speakers. More electronic parts that I wanted, but it works great.
Keep us posted. I'm sure we all have a friend who wants to build a sub in the region that you are targeting.
(+/- 10 or 15 dB) above 50 Hz on your first post.
I made a pair of Anarchy Tapped Horns, which had a similar response form (low end is around 27 Hz, with wild peaks above 110 Hz). I got one of those miniDSP modules to get rid of all the stuff above that nice flat plateau, and then a plate amp with adjustable crossover, gain, and phase to help match up with my 2-way speakers. More electronic parts that I wanted, but it works great.
Keep us posted. I'm sure we all have a friend who wants to build a sub in the region that you are targeting.
I am basically considering it to be a sub-subwoofer and writing off everything above 40ish hz. The infrasound is all I was reallly looking for, anyway. I have various other drivers (haven't decided which I will use, yet) and a 150 watt ApexJr amp that I will use to fill in the gab between the "U-Sub" and the mains.
Why, oh why, did those mighty men of old have to build instruments that produce sound as low as 16hz (8hz, in at least 2 cases...) and why, oh why, do I feel the need (obsession, really) to reproduce that in my living rooom. Alas...
Yeah, those 8 hz notes? I guess they will have to wait until I win the lottery, sell the movie rights to a book or do something like this...
Interesting DIY rotary subwoofer project - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Why, oh why, did those mighty men of old have to build instruments that produce sound as low as 16hz (8hz, in at least 2 cases...) and why, oh why, do I feel the need (obsession, really) to reproduce that in my living rooom. Alas...
Yeah, those 8 hz notes? I guess they will have to wait until I win the lottery, sell the movie rights to a book or do something like this...
Interesting DIY rotary subwoofer project - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
......and if the house construction can't handle it, the ceiling [and any overhead contents] can come raining down on you [been there, done that
].GM
Yeah, couldn't figure out what the game plan was, so just went along, but since you're now folding it in a common way, wondering why the offset driver, void space when a little lower tuning won't hurt and for true sub duty [~2 octaves at most] the driver should be at the end or in your case offset at ~L*0.21.
GM
......and if the house construction can't handle it, the ceiling [and any overhead contents] can come raining down on you [been there, done that
GM
Hmmm... Sounds like a good time for a story! Please elaborate... I've had objects fall from walls, but nothing quite like what you just described!
Yeah, wondering why not a TH or to reduce much of its out of band 'hash', a bjorno type damped TP to reduce electronic intervention.
GM
As far as the position of the driver and void space, I played around in hornresponse for some time trying to get rid of it, but just never did like the look of the resulting curve. I wanted to get the drop off as close to 10hz as rationally possible (I knew 8 hz would never happen with what I have to work with, but once I saw that 10 of 12 might be within reach, I went for it). As far as the folding, for some reason I got some idea in my head and "couldn't see the forest for the trees", so to speak. Had someone suggested something here, I would have given myself a big face-palm (like last night
) and thanked them! I was just determined to make it work, and somehow during that process missed the best, most OBVIOUS option.
I also have to say: "...just went along..."? Really? I thought we were here to help each other out, maybe catch someone's mistake before they waste a lot of wood. That's Ok. I'll hang my head and pout back over to my corner...
Anyway, seriously, my ego is not so inflated that I can't a handle any questioning of my judgement. That actually is why I'm here. There are so many brilliant and more experienced minds here that have probably already danced around pitfalls that I might be getting ready to fall into, that I am more than willing to hear their advice. If I decide to dive face first into the rabbit hole anyway, at least I will know what I am jumping into that way. I apologize if I ever gave the impression that I am not open to criticism; I just assumed that, if some here are even willing to question the likes of Tom Danley and David McBean, then surely I wouldn't need to give them permission to question me!
One more thing... not sure if I understand "offset at ~L*0.21". Can you elaborate?
Anyway, seriously, my ego is not so inflated that I can't a handle any questioning of my judgement. That actually is why I'm here. There are so many brilliant and more experienced minds here that have probably already danced around pitfalls that I might be getting ready to fall into, that I am more than willing to hear their advice. If I decide to dive face first into the rabbit hole anyway, at least I will know what I am jumping into that way. I apologize if I ever gave the impression that I am not open to criticism; I just assumed that, if some here are even willing to question the likes of Tom Danley and David McBean, then surely I wouldn't need to give them permission to question me!
One more thing... not sure if I understand "offset at ~L*0.21". Can you elaborate?
Indeed! The great thing about it is that there is every level of experience here, from people who are just discovering that it's possible to build your own loudspeakers without a college degree and produce good results, to award winning designers and everything in between... It is actually quite humbling, not to mention fun!
I'm "only" 45, but I, too, have been obsessed since around age 10, though I'm not sure exactly how old I was... that was when I took apart my mom's little GE radio and stuffed the speaker into a taped up shoe box with a hole cut out to see if it would make it sound better. After that, my dad taught me to solder and use woodworking tools! Then I bought an old stereo from my grandpa, "redesigned" the speakers and I haven't stopped since!
I'm "only" 45, but I, too, have been obsessed since around age 10, though I'm not sure exactly how old I was... that was when I took apart my mom's little GE radio and stuffed the speaker into a taped up shoe box with a hole cut out to see if it would make it sound better. After that, my dad taught me to solder and use woodworking tools! Then I bought an old stereo from my grandpa, "redesigned" the speakers and I haven't stopped since!
What if you made the driver side-firing instead of burying it inside the cabinet? Or perhaps you can find some inspiration from the Hideaway Subwoofer?
Hideaway TL Sub Revisited | audioXpress
Hideaway TL Sub Revisited | audioXpress
The logic of making a sub-sub is unassailable. A buddy built a sub to supplement his Klipschorns; sealed boxes that sat below the Klipsches (which start to poop-out below about 37 Hz), in 1968.
The logic for adding a sub-sub would be: high-pass the subs at a freq higher than where the subs stop functioning well (just as we do with the main speakers when adding subs).
For subs, we also think about stereo localization. On music at nome, the XO could be as high as 140 Hz (if clean and steep slope) and for lab testing about 80 Hz. Is there an acoustic point for a sub-sub (like Schroeder freq or lowest room mode or something)?
Long ago, if sound quality mattered, there was the "400,000 Rule" (lowest bass multiplied by highest treble) and if adding bass you needed to add treble extension for the sound to be good, even if the "400,000" number didn't have any special importance. Now a days, strong treble is prolly prevalent, so I wonder if the rule matters now?
The logic for adding a sub-sub would be: high-pass the subs at a freq higher than where the subs stop functioning well (just as we do with the main speakers when adding subs).
For subs, we also think about stereo localization. On music at nome, the XO could be as high as 140 Hz (if clean and steep slope) and for lab testing about 80 Hz. Is there an acoustic point for a sub-sub (like Schroeder freq or lowest room mode or something)?
Long ago, if sound quality mattered, there was the "400,000 Rule" (lowest bass multiplied by highest treble) and if adding bass you needed to add treble extension for the sound to be good, even if the "400,000" number didn't have any special importance. Now a days, strong treble is prolly prevalent, so I wonder if the rule matters now?
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