I have used winisd to sim a small isobarik. Looking quite hopeful for my intended use....garden boombox thing with 2 6.5" Seas drivers I have here to use as the subs. I shall add some fullramgers in separate volumes.
I have the sim showing -3 at 35Hz in 15litres. Is that 15litres per driver? I have a 15litre box. If I divide in half by adding a central baffle that mounts both drivers facing eqxh other...I basically have 2 x 7.5 litres enclosures. Am I too small to the power of 2.? Or does winisd mean 15litres then the drivers in the middle of this enclosure as I have described?
Do both sides of the enclosure remain separate.....no port between the 2?
My sim is for a BR. Does it matter which side I port or do I divide and port both sides?
Thanks for any advice.
I have the sim showing -3 at 35Hz in 15litres. Is that 15litres per driver? I have a 15litre box. If I divide in half by adding a central baffle that mounts both drivers facing eqxh other...I basically have 2 x 7.5 litres enclosures. Am I too small to the power of 2.? Or does winisd mean 15litres then the drivers in the middle of this enclosure as I have described?
Do both sides of the enclosure remain separate.....no port between the 2?
My sim is for a BR. Does it matter which side I port or do I divide and port both sides?
Thanks for any advice.
It looks like you haven't understood isobaric mounting.
The idea is this:
- Install the first driver into the cabinet as normal.
- Put the second driver over the first, cone-to-cone.
- Wire the second driver backwards to the first.
That's called clamshell isobaric. Others are available, but that's the simplest.
So, build the 15L cabinet with a single 6.5" cutout, and install both drivers.
Chris
The idea is this:
- Install the first driver into the cabinet as normal.
- Put the second driver over the first, cone-to-cone.
- Wire the second driver backwards to the first.
That's called clamshell isobaric. Others are available, but that's the simplest.
So, build the 15L cabinet with a single 6.5" cutout, and install both drivers.
Chris
Ah.....thanks Chris. Yes I misunderstood that by quite some margin! I must have seen some car sub installs many moons ago where the drivers mounted face to face were within the enclosure....and ran with it!
A driver mounted basket out on the outside is not really practical for an outdoor speaker so I shall rethink.
Maybe dual opposed push push.....to stabilise the box.
A driver mounted basket out on the outside is not really practical for an outdoor speaker so I shall rethink.
Maybe dual opposed push push.....to stabilise the box.
You've been looking at isobaric bandpass designs specifically.
Stabilising the box is a good idea. You could also do something with 360-degree sound.
Chris
AFAIK, basic box programs assume a zero air gap since it's presumed to be small enough to act as a rigid coupling, so 15 L is the rear chamber only with no vent between them, only for the rear chamber if desired, i.e. making a BR with a second driver closely coupled to the driver to trade efficiency for a smaller cab by altering its effective T/S specs.
With your box then, only clam shell mounting is an option and you would build an extension with a protective grill to protect it. That, or get a bigger box.
Isobaric Subwoofer Design — VUE Audiotechnik
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