OK not quite dumpster diving
Landlord across the road was cleaning out the house across the road and just now put this on the verge. I haven't pulled the driver out of the box but it seems to be in reasonable but dirty condition and is not open circuit by a battery test
Not yet sure what the exact model is yet
Shocking shonky box
Worth playing with or straight to the recycle bin or trading post?
I don't have a sub with my computer speakers yet
Anybody give me the model or data from a quick eyeball?
Landlord across the road was cleaning out the house across the road and just now put this on the verge. I haven't pulled the driver out of the box but it seems to be in reasonable but dirty condition and is not open circuit by a battery test
Not yet sure what the exact model is yet
Shocking shonky box
Worth playing with or straight to the recycle bin or trading post?
I don't have a sub with my computer speakers yet
Anybody give me the model or data from a quick eyeball?
Attachments
Seems to be the SWS 1241
https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20030422125700/Manuals/500/500SWS1041.PDF
Typical specs it seems for a small car sub.
For a few seconds I was tempted to do the "Straight to 240V hook-up" but my better senses and fear of my wife has stopped me in my thoughts process.
https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20030422125700/Manuals/500/500SWS1041.PDF
Typical specs it seems for a small car sub.
For a few seconds I was tempted to do the "Straight to 240V hook-up" but my better senses and fear of my wife has stopped me in my thoughts process.
and if the surrounds are still good you should send them to me, since that vega series really should have been marketed differently. fun part is those were the same drivers in their pro audio subs at the time (at least the single VC versions motors. cones were different). what you have there is an older alpine type s sub. they can go ported or sealed, but that is a version before redesign if I don't miss my guess...not as stout as current models. for a computer sub youll be in good shape.
Postage would be a real killer tho
I'm keeping them for a TL design that GM helped me with.
With the Alpine would a Vas/2 be a goods starting point sealed? Before I bother with sims
with the higher q numbers, play with a TL design at or just below FS. shoot for around 56-70 liters of enclosure space. give it a little room and it will sing.
with the mid q numbers of those vega subs, a basic ported box is all they really need. kind of the last in a breed and id pay the postage because lolfanboy. seriously, those woofers are the last good thing that ever came out of cerwin-vega before the sell off.
as far as repair...……..very carefully
with the mid q numbers of those vega subs, a basic ported box is all they really need. kind of the last in a breed and id pay the postage because lolfanboy. seriously, those woofers are the last good thing that ever came out of cerwin-vega before the sell off.
as far as repair...……..very carefully
Well I finally fixed it. Tinsel wires were so oxidised it was hard to solder but I got there in the end. OK but not very efficient but I sort of knew that. I was wondering what to do with them when I saw this big blue plastic drum in my garden shed. Anybody ever made a party sub using a big plastic drum?
Just under 200 litres and I have plenty of fibreglass but I seem to have lost the locking ring for the drum. Would silicon work on HDPE at all without that ring? If I just screw down through the top would I get enough seal?
Just under 200 litres and I have plenty of fibreglass but I seem to have lost the locking ring for the drum. Would silicon work on HDPE at all without that ring? If I just screw down through the top would I get enough seal?
Attachments
I made a subwoofer using half of a plastic trash bin about 30 years ago. I could figure out a lot in my younger years but that wasn’t anything to brag about I’m afraid. It may have worked better with some internal bracing.
I was trying to keep the weight down as it was located in the front trunk of a sports car, ducted to the interior. Was quickly forgotten...
I was trying to keep the weight down as it was located in the front trunk of a sports car, ducted to the interior. Was quickly forgotten...
Had a thought. Probably a dumb one. Most subwoofers also have a rising high end, instead of using crossovers mounted on a board somewhere [ or electronic ditto] why don't we correct the response by wiring a big cap across the terminals with some minimal resistance included? Is it simply too difficult to get a large enough power resistor in such a smallish space or am I really thinking weirdly inside the box?? Would you really need a resistor anyway? I was looking though my stash and I still have a few 300uF caps from my last subwoofer build with a passive first order at 18Hz to give a bass boost in a tight sealed box