Interesting! I don't recall them offering one; got a link or model number? Google returned nothing.
The main thing is it needs to be stiffly sprung to keep sag minimal over time: Resources - Woofer Mount Up Down
GM
This is the mess in the lounge room that I must soon clean up and make tidy. Generally speaking I have excellent WAF but The Boss is not happy with the "Look" of the current set-up and I agree with her on this issue.
Those little powered boxes were good value for the $99- they cost me but the electronics die abruptly and as they are all just over 10YO now are really in need of replacement.
The problem is that the Vifa woofer in the tops are so good that finding a cheap sub driver to mate for that lower octave seems like an impossible task when I want the same woofer to also handle H/T
Those little powered boxes were good value for the $99- they cost me but the electronics die abruptly and as they are all just over 10YO now are really in need of replacement.
The problem is that the Vifa woofer in the tops are so good that finding a cheap sub driver to mate for that lower octave seems like an impossible task when I want the same woofer to also handle H/T
Attachments
I had forgotten about this valuable resource
Data Sheets – NedLab
Lots of data on factory specs for a lot of drivers
Data Sheets – NedLab
Lots of data on factory specs for a lot of drivers
SWMBO just approved the project as far as the coffee table sub is concerned and I have that suitable driver in the old Kicker but having run data for the Vifa through Woofer box modeller I remember we did the boxes as Critically damped sealed.
Am I worrying too much about driver selection for the bottoms?
What if I just put a pair of the cheap 12" woofers in a big sealed box and use a DSP to play? Links to a simple DSP tutorial on using one with a 3-Way Tri-amped set-up?
Am I worrying too much about driver selection for the bottoms?
What if I just put a pair of the cheap 12" woofers in a big sealed box and use a DSP to play? Links to a simple DSP tutorial on using one with a 3-Way Tri-amped set-up?
If you got your a.. together and sold all your unused and unnesesary speakers, drivers and gear your wife would probably let you do , build and buy whatever you want. Still; putting sub in sofa, table or hidden behind sofa sounds like a good idea. Your first priority should be to sell the stuff you dont need. That would give you some more time to think what really would work for you. Plus a happy wife�� Im in the same proses
Love this forum
yep the Boss agrees that I should get rid of some of the "Projects" as some of them need rooms the size of small churches to be effective and like a lot of tinkerers I accumulate stuff from all the people for whom I do quick and dirty speaker repairs and there have been a lot of those over the years
yep the Boss agrees that I should get rid of some of the "Projects" as some of them need rooms the size of small churches to be effective and like a lot of tinkerers I accumulate stuff from all the people for whom I do quick and dirty speaker repairs and there have been a lot of those over the years
I'm not sure if this is within your budget but these should work really well in compact sealed cabinets
STW-350F188PR01-04 Peerless by Tymphany | Audio Products | DigiKey
Peerless by Tymphany STW-350F-188PR01-04 15" High Power Subwoofer
Otherwise consider looking at car audio subs.. some of them can be surprisingly good
STW-350F188PR01-04 Peerless by Tymphany | Audio Products | DigiKey
Peerless by Tymphany STW-350F-188PR01-04 15" High Power Subwoofer
Otherwise consider looking at car audio subs.. some of them can be surprisingly good
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Would work well I agree but outside of the budget.
I have an old project that I may be able to recycle, I made some very special subs for my son years ago and he never used them, I could reconfigure the drivers into acceptable furniture. They were dual 10s plus a rear firing 12"
All rewound to 24Ohms DCR and paralleled for an easy load on a particular amplifier
I have an old project that I may be able to recycle, I made some very special subs for my son years ago and he never used them, I could reconfigure the drivers into acceptable furniture. They were dual 10s plus a rear firing 12"
All rewound to 24Ohms DCR and paralleled for an easy load on a particular amplifier
"I could reconfigure the drivers into acceptable furniture."
Cool idea.I think someone could make a fortune bringing back the right "musical furniture" Not just tv-stands like Ikea.
"Boss agrees that I should get rid of some of the "Projects"
Its hard to get much for it, but then you also dont have to pay much for what you need second hand. I often see amazing bargains that I have to pass cause I have too much already. Today I saw a 400£ Canton soundbar with aptx selling for 40£ I think that will go under my parents tv when its my farthers birthday.
If you have something old (from before 1990), you can sell it for a huge overprize on vintage hifi facebook groups
Cool idea.I think someone could make a fortune bringing back the right "musical furniture" Not just tv-stands like Ikea.
"Boss agrees that I should get rid of some of the "Projects"
Its hard to get much for it, but then you also dont have to pay much for what you need second hand. I often see amazing bargains that I have to pass cause I have too much already. Today I saw a 400£ Canton soundbar with aptx selling for 40£ I think that will go under my parents tv when its my farthers birthday.
If you have something old (from before 1990), you can sell it for a huge overprize on vintage hifi facebook groups
Jeez to me 1990 is modern
So my old Rotel H/T preamp is actually worth something?
At the moment I am reading trying to work out how to integrate a miniDSP into my system that splits the signal using a Beringher XO
Manipulating an existing driver to do what needs to be done sounds so simple but I get confused easily with computers and programming stuff
A short term solution is in the shed, my old pair of MTX Road Thunder 15s
A disastrous reconing by a bloke in Melbourne who should have known better but I bought on his spiel years ago
Spouse acceptable will be if she can't see the hideous yellow Kevlar cones and they will work downfiring in the short term.
These will be corner placed and only a front throat, so does the throat size matter once it is as large as the woofers cone size or is bigger better?
Lets call this a proof of concept build so I get started ASAP
A disastrous reconing by a bloke in Melbourne who should have known better but I bought on his spiel years ago
Spouse acceptable will be if she can't see the hideous yellow Kevlar cones and they will work downfiring in the short term.
These will be corner placed and only a front throat, so does the throat size matter once it is as large as the woofers cone size or is bigger better?
Lets call this a proof of concept build so I get started ASAP
What you just said GM
Painted the same colour as the backing wall [ Matt Black ] and not being able to see the drivers will fix that. My beloved wife has put up with the other proofs of concept boxes for years but newly renovated and painted room deserves some better looking furniture.
You have persuaded me to get a miniDSP box and start playing in the digital realm for bass.
If I am going to use DSP for the bass than then worrying about the slot area seems immaterial as the drivers are power limited anyway by excursion restraints to about 150W peak and about 10 watts by normal heat issues but 10watts may be in the 95 to 99dB range which is more than enough for our room and listening requirements
Painted the same colour as the backing wall [ Matt Black ] and not being able to see the drivers will fix that. My beloved wife has put up with the other proofs of concept boxes for years but newly renovated and painted room deserves some better looking furniture.
You have persuaded me to get a miniDSP box and start playing in the digital realm for bass.
If I am going to use DSP for the bass than then worrying about the slot area seems immaterial as the drivers are power limited anyway by excursion restraints to about 150W peak and about 10 watts by normal heat issues but 10watts may be in the 95 to 99dB range which is more than enough for our room and listening requirements
Warning: I have not read the whole thread.
Can I ask the OP a serious question...
I assume this thread is tongue in cheek.
I get offended when I hear things like “my wife won’t let me”
I moved out of my mothers house almost 40 years ago, I work every day, pay my bills, keep a roof over my family’s head and food on the table.
There is nobody who is going to tell me what I can and can’t do in my own home.
There are 2 sides to my front door, anyone can choose to be on either side but on my side nobody get to say no to me, discussions and debates are fine but I will not be told what I can and can’t do.
No offence to anyone intended.
Can I ask the OP a serious question...
I assume this thread is tongue in cheek.
I get offended when I hear things like “my wife won’t let me”
I moved out of my mothers house almost 40 years ago, I work every day, pay my bills, keep a roof over my family’s head and food on the table.
There is nobody who is going to tell me what I can and can’t do in my own home.
There are 2 sides to my front door, anyone can choose to be on either side but on my side nobody get to say no to me, discussions and debates are fine but I will not be told what I can and can’t do.
No offence to anyone intended.
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