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Peerless vs Dayton Audio
Peerless vs Dayton Audio
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Old 21st January 2019, 10:58 PM   #21
WaVeInFoRm is offline WaVeInFoRm
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I just reviewed the picture to check my imaginative capability wasn't getting too carried away and it was. a bass box under the speakers and television unit would look Daft.

for the athletic of this situation a nice white painted front ported 12" subwoofer located instead of the table to the left would look good from a ascetic/artistic point of view and likely a placement/sonical sense as well.
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Old 21st January 2019, 11:22 PM   #22
WaVeInFoRm is offline WaVeInFoRm
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Passive radiator would save room. larger ported cabinets can use shorter ports. but for smaller cabinet passive radiator makes sense. needs larger surface area than the active driver because of how it works.
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Old 22nd January 2019, 07:47 AM   #23
Mrcloc is offline Mrcloc  South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbowatch2 View Post
The excursion of the radiator has to match the woofer

Of course! Don't know how I missed that. Thanks!


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Originally Posted by WaVeInFoRm View Post
what I see to be a table with a amplifier on and a computer standing beneath? why not place a sub there.

That's basically the idea. I was wanting stereo subs, but this is now my plan. I'm building a proper table there, so I'll build it to house the amp, PC, and woofer.


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Originally Posted by WaVeInFoRm View Post
I dont see how the 6 inchers extend that low realistically, though some may be the room size

The drivers have an excursion limit of 10 mm each way, so theoretical SPL at 30 Hz is about 101 dB without room gain. The speakers themselves respond well to 26 Hz (glass panes shake like mad, clothes vibrate a lot on me, etc.). The woofer still needs to fill in <35 Hz to bring levels of sub-bass up to 0 dB at least.


Quote:
Originally Posted by WaVeInFoRm View Post
Under the table and mains..

There's an idea!! Even if I didn't go with a TL, I could simply use a low profile woofer (or perhaps two in the same cabinet, separate enclosures), with a port on each end. Something like attached.
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Old 22nd January 2019, 08:20 AM   #24
Mrcloc is offline Mrcloc  South Africa
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I think I might go with JBL GT5-10. The enclosure volume will be about 65L, internal dimensions about 16 x 65 x 63 cm, vent frequency at 25 Hz. That should sound awesome! And I get my stereo...

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 23rd January 2019, 04:03 PM   #25
Reactance is offline Reactance  South Africa
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Originally Posted by Mrcloc View Post
I think I might go with JBL GT5-10. The enclosure volume will be about 65L, internal dimensions about 16 x 65 x 63 cm, vent frequency at 25 Hz. That should sound awesome! And I get my stereo...

Click the image to open in full size.
From a Peerless to JBL GT5-10 you will never be satisfied, Try a Peerless Peerless 835017 12" Aluminum Cone XXLS Subwoofer its a rather fun subwoofer. I got 17Hz response and use it for movies mostly, really a nice subwoofer and needs only 150RMS with a proper signaling front end.
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Old 23rd January 2019, 04:29 PM   #26
Mrcloc is offline Mrcloc  South Africa
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$220 is waay over budget. I was wanting to spend $50 per driver, stereo. When I saw that UM10, I was just about willing to spend the $170, but that's also too much.
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Old 24th January 2019, 06:36 AM   #27
Mrcloc is offline Mrcloc  South Africa
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Originally Posted by Reactance View Post
I got 17Hz response and use it for movies mostly, really a nice subwoofer and needs only 150RMS with a proper signaling front end.

Before my current system, I got 17 Hz from a Sakyno cheapo 10" car woofer I bought from cash cruisaders years ago for R150, and I only needed 90 W for it. I used it because it measured the best of the drivers I had, and it sounded really good!
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