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Peerless vs Dayton Audio
Peerless vs Dayton Audio
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Old 17th January 2019, 12:20 PM   #11
Turbowatch2 is offline Turbowatch2  Germany
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That sounds like a good plan, donīt worry about rear reflections that much, they are part of the game. Acoustically "dead" roomīs sound terrible, only glas is really disturbing.
If you are into electronics, the best and very low costing way is a D-Amp with SMPS and a DSP.
The DSP that is most bang for the buck ist from WONDOM-Sure. I do not recommend their amps and stuff, but the DSP is OK. You get it with programer for US$ 50. The often recomended Mini DSP is conveniant, but has some not so nice sides, like noise and on/off plopīs.
A good amp is the LJM15Dpro
Assembeld LJM L15D Pro Mono Power amplifier board IRS2092 IRFB4019 | eBay
Add a 2x48-50volt SMPS and you have enough power for a 4 Ohm sub, or take a larger version, like the 20 or 25. These amps have proved to work well. So depending on import dutyīs you could get a powered DSP for around 120 US$. With D-amp and SMPS you dont have to worry about cooling, like with a A/B amp. When you want to integrate it into the sub, an impotant fact. Anyway, from my experience, I would not build it into the box. Much more flexible and less problems with vibrations / electronics.

Last edited by Turbowatch2; 17th January 2019 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 18th January 2019, 01:01 AM   #12
Turbowatch2 is offline Turbowatch2  Germany
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I just did some calculaions with the woofer you picked, what kind of enclosure volume do you have in mind?
The UM10-22 is one of the highest excursion woofers on the market, it will need quite some volume as vented cabinet with a passive radiator (or a very long vent) or a smaller closed house plus DSP, but with crazy power demand. 500W rms to give an idea or upto 1000W program...
With loudspeakers, everthing comes at a price.
Maybe you could guess how loud you want to hear (feel)?
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Old 18th January 2019, 06:49 AM   #13
Mrcloc is offline Mrcloc  South Africa
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With a UM10-22, I would do a 47L internal, which equates to about 55L, including the port and driver displacement. Port is flared on both ends, 8cm diameter and about 60cm long in total. Internal dimensions are about 35 x 35 x 45 cm, the port is bent. I'm guessing that's about 15 m/s air speed max.


It does need a lot of power, hence 300 W I'm planning (600 W program, as you put it). I will design my own electronics, and I have components for 300 W already (transformer, transistors, etc.).


With 300 W, I believe I'll get about (theoretically) 100 dB SPL at about 30 Hz, -3 dB at 20 Hz. In room, I believe I'll get a few more dB from room gain, and add in the speakers, should give me more than enough.
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Old 18th January 2019, 10:59 AM   #14
Turbowatch2 is offline Turbowatch2  Germany
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If you only want to use it up to 300w rms, consider using the Dayton RSS265HF-4 10" instead. It will need less power and sound more relaxed, while giving similar in room response.
The UM22 is a very extreme chassis, which will not automatically get the best sound. I expect it to be inferior to RSS at medium/low volume. It might only "come alive" with much higher level. It is like using a F1 car for shoping.
For music frequencyīs under 30Hz get less important, so donīt expect to loose anything with 4 Hz less... volume does not change, just a few litres less. But please, you have to build a very well braced housing for these subīs. So that will need quite some volume. Donīt make the "I do thick walls" mistake, the cabinet for ether chassis will need internal reinforcementīs. 22mm MDF or ply will do. in the end you will even save some money with the RSS on Chassis and amplification.
Just my 2 cent.

PS The RSS in 50 litres will still give a -8dB point under 20 Hz! -8dB is what commercial products often tell you, if they are 1/2 honest. More often -12... This is without DSP correction. By the way, a DSP is needed or room correction with such low frequency woofer`s.
Last, consider a passive radiator, it is much better than a reflex port with such configurations. 60cm is very long and can only be fitted with some bending, which is less preverable.

Last edited by Turbowatch2; 18th January 2019 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 18th January 2019, 11:25 AM   #15
Turbowatch2 is offline Turbowatch2  Germany
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passive radiator:

Dayton Audio RSS265-PR 10" Aluminum Cone Passive Radiator - Passive Radiators - Loudspeaker Drivers By Type - Loudspeaker Components

This one will fit with the RSS. You save a lot of hassle with the construction of a port, which is worth much more than the money it costs. Only 60 US$ when you consider the money saved with the RSS. The end result will be much better, because of the too long port with the relative small volume. Just put it at one side of the box, must not be the rear. This combination will give you a real high end sub, comparable with the most expensive commercial produkts. No problems with port noise is a real advantage with such combinations (small & deep). No funny "umpf" sounds.

You can also easily tune it to fit the room, if you fit it inside out for testing. Only takes seconds to tune it lower or higher with changing weights. That can be a real problem solver!

Last edited by Turbowatch2; 18th January 2019 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 18th January 2019, 11:51 AM   #16
Mrcloc is offline Mrcloc  South Africa
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It looks good!


That RSS265HF-4 is very nice, and the response will be better for my use. I think a 56L, including the port, but if I add a passive radiator, 50L will do. What's wrong with the DSA270-PR? I think ~22Hz will be a fine tuning point?


I'm planning 32mm panels all around, and some decent bracing.
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Old 18th January 2019, 02:08 PM   #17
Mrcloc is offline Mrcloc  South Africa
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My initial thought was to do two 8", and put them somewhere discrete. Going for a 12" will work nicely, but why not think bigger?


So I've done a few calculations, etc. and I think I can fit in a big woofer right in the corner. It will only be used for special occasions, I guess. I therefore think my best option is to go with a DCS385-4 in a 212L box (about 66 x 66 x 66 cm), tuned to 17.5 Hz. If I filter with a very steep filter at about 33 Hz, I will get -3 dB response down to the mid-teens. In addition, it's not power-hungry, and a 300 W will suit it well.


Let it begin. My only problem will be getting the massive driver back home. Little drivers are easy to transport for kind people willing to bring stuff back when visiting USA, but a box 40 x 40 x 19 cm is going to take some convincing. Perhaps I can make a 39cm diameter hardboard template for the kind person to screw onto the driver, and then they can shove it into their luggage without the box...
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Old 18th January 2019, 11:59 PM   #18
Brian Steele is offline Brian Steele  Grenada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrcloc View Post
I would like to know if anyone can compare Peerless 830667 and Dayton Audio DCS205-4? The DCS205-4 will go into a 17L bandpass box, and the Peerless into a 38L bandpass box.
I've used the DCS205-4. It's a nice woofer. I wouldn't use it in a bandpass box though. I got pretty good results using it in an offset TL - have a look at the "Boom Unit" project at my website.

Just remember though that it IS an 8" driver....
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Old 19th January 2019, 02:29 AM   #19
Turbowatch2 is offline Turbowatch2  Germany
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Now you have been infected with sub woofer fever. Welcome!

The excursion of the radiator has to match the woofer, so the cheaper one does not fit the RSS. The resonance of the PR is adjusted by weight you screw on, so the RSS would have needed another 60g or so fixed with 50 litres.
There are rules to the game you have to respect if you want a 100% result!

Last edited by Turbowatch2; 19th January 2019 at 02:34 AM.
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Old 21st January 2019, 10:51 PM   #20
WaVeInFoRm is offline WaVeInFoRm
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what I see to be a table with a amplifier on and a computer standing beneath? why not place a sub there. lay the computer sideways under the amp.

I dont see how the 6 inchers extend that low realistically, though some may be the room size, I say a good 12 inch ported would be ideal for this room. the computer and amps can be in a stack or a unit above and the floor space is retained.

I would cross abit higher too as elevating the pressure from the mains will make for clearer sound when you turn up the volume as the cones themselves will be moving less and more within the linear field.

another idea would be a tall thin cabinet in one of both corners.

also a 8inch Can add extension if it where being used in a limited pass band, aka your original passband concept. I presume at reasonable levels that would be fine and still add you abit of lower resonance.


or.... you could lay a tapped horn or offset transmission line Under the table and mains.. if you didn't mind moving the screen and picture up abit..

or stood in one or corner.. though corner placement not to ideal

under that table with the mouth/port to one side work well.

Last edited by WaVeInFoRm; 21st January 2019 at 10:53 PM.
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