Generally it's been said the one can't really hear where 20-80Hz is coming from. So even better when you feel the subsonic frequencies.
Just FYI I could only feel it when I was closer to the sub. So many nodes in the room cancelling out... I do have another sub on standby to be modified.
Just FYI I could only feel it when I was closer to the sub. So many nodes in the room cancelling out... I do have another sub on standby to be modified.
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Interesting experiment.
You still want the air in the room to vibrate, not the whole room with the air inside.
I have 8 jbl804 subwoofers and 2m piece of 200mm/8inch pvc pipe at home ..........
But 2 of them, each in a small closed box together in a corner of my room are way more then powerful enough and sound better then all the other 8" and 12" sealed, bass reflex and band-pass boxes I compared them with, all made by JBL and with same series drivers with an exception for the 2 8" bandbass boxes which are from pioneer. The 12" sealed are my 2nd choice.
I guess the smooth roll off (which is compensated by the room gain) from a sealed box is what I like about the differences in sound.
Please do yourself, cspieker and me a favor and put 1 or 2 drivers from the "another sub" in proper separate sealed boxes and compare them.
You still want the air in the room to vibrate, not the whole room with the air inside.
I have 8 jbl804 subwoofers and 2m piece of 200mm/8inch pvc pipe at home ..........
But 2 of them, each in a small closed box together in a corner of my room are way more then powerful enough and sound better then all the other 8" and 12" sealed, bass reflex and band-pass boxes I compared them with, all made by JBL and with same series drivers with an exception for the 2 8" bandbass boxes which are from pioneer. The 12" sealed are my 2nd choice.
I guess the smooth roll off (which is compensated by the room gain) from a sealed box is what I like about the differences in sound.
Please do yourself, cspieker and me a favor and put 1 or 2 drivers from the "another sub" in proper separate sealed boxes and compare them.
Think, thanks alot for your input I really appreciate it.... I am having recurring problems with these cheapo IR2092S 500AMP boards I got from eBay. They keep blowing out randomly... To fix this situation, using the same +-65V 2x 500W SMPS's, I decided to order 2x (250Wx2 IR2092S) Amps made by Sure and sold by PE. That way I'm done wasting money on poorly made product. I should have them in before next Monday. Hopefully good results!
Then I shall make progress, if the Amp situation is resolved, on sealing 2 drivers....
Interestingly enough, the 2 amps that failed last were the ones driving the outer drivers and I did not notice a 'real' difference in SPL at subsonic Freq's as I was testing sub20Hz at louder volumes. also, another plus is the Sure Amps have 1.1Vrms input sensitivity, so I'm not looking to mod the gain setting... Still I would steer anyone clear of the IRS2092S 500AMP's made in China. They're cheap, but they don't work.
Interestingly enough, the 2 amps that failed last were the ones driving the outer drivers and I did not notice a 'real' difference in SPL at subsonic Freq's as I was testing sub20Hz at louder volumes. also, another plus is the Sure Amps have 1.1Vrms input sensitivity, so I'm not looking to mod the gain setting... Still I would steer anyone clear of the IRS2092S 500AMP's made in China. They're cheap, but they don't work.
My guess is that the amps connected to outer drivers failed because of an impedance problem created by the outer drivers because of the inner drivers only pushing but not pulling the outer drivers; as the drivers have a open space between them.
Not like an isobaric setup where 2 or more drivers push and pull each other because of the closed spaces between them.
If so, this problem is not fixable and the sub won't produce good sound.
Not like an isobaric setup where 2 or more drivers push and pull each other because of the closed spaces between them.
If so, this problem is not fixable and the sub won't produce good sound.
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