Hi, I am contemplating on building subs for my 4 x JBL 2226H recently professionally reconed. I need to build a pair of subs loaded with double 15" these will be used as subs for my BFM SLA Pro on a stick. I will use these pair for DJ/Vocal playback karaoke live performance. I also have an old Omni 12 Tallboy built 3 years ago and have not loaded the new drivers. So why not go to BFM forums, because I will get socked by members over there for not using their suggested subs. Well to tell you the truth I have Dj'd the SLA Pro with a pair of Tuba 24 loaded with double BP102 as suggested by the plans and no bass. Some bass but need to be EQ'd out to really hear it and seems high like 60 hz not really bassy sounding.
So I have Arauco ply available 7 ply available in Home Depot and they cut me panels before with precise so the simple #10 plans from the enclosure guide I plan to build. I need it from 45-200Hz for SLA Pro tops, I know plans suggest 125 Hz crossover but it does not sound good that low. It is a very bright cabinet without EQ for tops. OR I can finish my Omni 12 Tallboy for subs tuned to 40Hz as per JBL enclosure guide to 80Hz. The footprint is almost the same subs and tops of each other.
I have 3 amps to power these and an Ashly 3 way analog crossover and also a Berry DCX that I painstakingly trying to still understand to operate. That is why I plan on using the Ashly no frills input output connection with these system no to blazingly loud operation as the most venue 250 peeps would be plenty. Any suggestion? Thanks
So I have Arauco ply available 7 ply available in Home Depot and they cut me panels before with precise so the simple #10 plans from the enclosure guide I plan to build. I need it from 45-200Hz for SLA Pro tops, I know plans suggest 125 Hz crossover but it does not sound good that low. It is a very bright cabinet without EQ for tops. OR I can finish my Omni 12 Tallboy for subs tuned to 40Hz as per JBL enclosure guide to 80Hz. The footprint is almost the same subs and tops of each other.
I have 3 amps to power these and an Ashly 3 way analog crossover and also a Berry DCX that I painstakingly trying to still understand to operate. That is why I plan on using the Ashly no frills input output connection with these system no to blazingly loud operation as the most venue 250 peeps would be plenty. Any suggestion? Thanks
What is so hard to understand bout the Berry? Guess it is the DCX2496, right?
It s got 2 inputs 6 outputs, you setup the algorythm of your choice - you can leave 2 outputs open - set the parameters and - go!
Greets!
For PA: 175 L [6.18 ft^3] net/driver with a 440 cm^2 [ 68.2"^2] x 28 cm [11"] long duct = 40 Hz Fb.
If in a common cab, then 350 L [12.36 ft^3] net with an 880 cm^2 [136.4"^2] x 21 cm [8.27"] long duct = 40 Hz Fb.
GM
The 2226 is a great driver, very flexable and forgiving so it's hard to go wrong but for maximum controlled output I'd suggest 5 cu ft per driver tuned to 44hz, and for simplicity of construction use a slot port that is 3" x 15"(the internal width of the cab) that is 7.9" deep with a divider in the middle, this keeps port air velocity reasonable at full power(600w). Double all that for a dual 15 box and definitely use the Berry DCX, you will need a 24db low cut filter at 36hz to protect the drivers below tuning and the parametric EQ will be invaluable in taming those BFM tops... we can get into that at another time. These 2226's will go as high as you need in a controlled manner but again some EQ will be instrumental in making that work well. Any questions regarding setup of the DCX you can fire away, I have one here and am quite familiar with it,
Thanks GM and conanski you guys have been very helpful over the years I'm following diyaudio. Ok conanski I like the profile of the #10 in the guide for it being slim as for Djing space is a premium, BUT the 5 cu ft chamber in a cab. Also the slot port is it like the G-Subs in another site? That slot port looks like what they use in EAW SB250? Since the 2226's are not really sub woofers but of a mid type bass woofer, which is nice as it would be safe for even a 200 Hz crossover point. The DCX is a monster used it twice and never touched it again since I bought the Ashly 2001 and no limiter settings needed as I don't go blarringly loud playback Dj work. Any exterior size suggestions for these 215 subs? I have 2 x 15 mm BB in my garage 5x5 or should I just go Arauco 7 ply from Home Depot? Thanks for the reply.
Ok I just came back from Home Depot locally here in Florida and they have Arauco 3/4" 4x8 with 7 plies and exterior glue $35 a sheet. I also called my plywood distributor and he says 18 mm Baltic Birch is $76 a sheet 4x8 no stock and will take up to 3 weeks to get as I am only buying 3 sheets to build 2 cabs. So I was thinking just getting the Arauco cut rough at Home Depot then final cut it at home. I was also planning on putting wood strips 2x2 pine inside perimeter of the cab to make it stiffer cab.
My question is does anyone have any experience with Arauco (Radiata Pine). This cab is not for touring maybe 4-5 DJ shows a year as I have other subs I use for other gigs. Do I really need BB, I would like to but money wise Arauco might come close. i will also be putting wooden box handles instead of metal handles from Penn Elcom. Thanks
My question is does anyone have any experience with Arauco (Radiata Pine). This cab is not for touring maybe 4-5 DJ shows a year as I have other subs I use for other gigs. Do I really need BB, I would like to but money wise Arauco might come close. i will also be putting wooden box handles instead of metal handles from Penn Elcom. Thanks
3/4"]
Just now seen this......... Looking good!
Yes I do and no you don't. Wow! Wish I could get ~3/4" BB ply anywhere near this cheap!
3/4" [23/32"] Arauco is listed as 7 ply [4x8 ft panel] with a 936,260 psi MOE, so considerably stiffer than MDF's ~27,500 psi, but well short of 11 ply BB's ~1.8 mil psi and much lighter than either, so Arauco definitely needs more bracing, especially with such large cabs.
Ideally need 1x4 hardwood or at least Arauco ply on end running down the three long sides with same tying these together and to the baffle several times to keep the cab from 'breathing' and tie these to the top, bottom place stiffeners.
Driver bracing attached to this grid is a good plan too. All oriented in the vertical plane to maximize 1/4 WL pipe action.
GM
Just now seen this......... Looking good!
Yes I do and no you don't.
Wow! Wish I could get ~3/4" BB ply anywhere near this cheap!3/4" [23/32"] Arauco is listed as 7 ply [4x8 ft panel] with a 936,260 psi MOE, so considerably stiffer than MDF's ~27,500 psi, but well short of 11 ply BB's ~1.8 mil psi and much lighter than either, so Arauco definitely needs more bracing, especially with such large cabs.
Ideally need 1x4 hardwood or at least Arauco ply on end running down the three long sides with same tying these together and to the baffle several times to keep the cab from 'breathing' and tie these to the top, bottom place stiffeners.
Driver bracing attached to this grid is a good plan too. All oriented in the vertical plane to maximize 1/4 WL pipe action.
GM
Hi GM, I bought 3 sheets of Arauco ply for $35 a sheet 4 x 8 and 7 equal plies with exterior glue. They're heavy but not as heavy as Baltic Birch. These will be use for playback DJ music there will be 2 cabs built as you can see by the wall on the garage all panels have been cut. The breathing your talking about is for a whole rectangular cab with no stiffeners, correct. If you look carefully I have pre drilled a center piece to separate 2 equal cabs in one. These cabs are 10.66 cu ft tuned to 40 Hz the ports were calculated by another top poster here on diyaudio. The ports are 7.9" deep and 15" wide by 3" high with a center piece support ply. I oversized it a little to compensate as I will be mounting a Penn Elcom 2 angled casters on the bottom and 2 angled handles both metal, plus a recessed wooden handle ala F1. So I also plan a piece of 1" x 3" wood support from baffle to rear of cab just to prevent some resonance but I will also put 1"x2" strips on all inside perimeter of the cab to help joinery as well. Please give me your thoughts, thanks.
Last edited:
So I put this project a few months behind and pulled it out of the garage and started working on this 215 sub. So I am looking at wadding saw poly fill in WallMart like this its 1/2" thick at $12.97 a bag and the amount inside is enough for 1 sub 41.5"x23.75"x23" cab. Is this the right stuff to use? Theres an eBay ad for a 1/2"x18"x36" poly wadding for $10? Which one should I get, Thanks!
Last edited:
Greets! Happy Holidaze and all that jive!
Hmm, twice now I've missed this thread.
Hopefully subscribing a third time is a charm.Correct.
I did, but each 'cab' ideally needs to be braced against 'breathing' with them crossing behind the driver and notched out to support/brace it in lieu of the 1 x 3 baffle/rear wall brace.
FWIW you only need to add glue blocks along ~70% of its length and can be just a few short pieces spaced along this length. Note that if you want some driver protection against dropping the cab on a corner, then don't block the corners, creating a crush zone.
GM
Traditionally for prosound apps, lining one of each parallel walls with insulation was the norm, so if polyfil, then glue on wadding [blanket], though having never used it, don't know what density to use [if an option] or just line more walls till the cab doesn't sound 'hollow', though normally don't put any near the vent opening as it can lower tuning.
Otherwise use cheesecloth or similar to create a bag to fill to 'taste' with the cheapest 100% polyfill stuffing you can find and anchor it enough to keep it from floating around if it turns out to need only a modest amount.
GM
Nice advice GM, thanks for that I will be putting supports also inside the cab with 1"x3" planks back to front via back of the front baffle. With regards to the poly fil the WalMart is the cheapest for the amount you get for $13. I see some EAW subs with poly fil the whole rear for the woofer to the magnet, I was wondering if this is the norm. I mean EAW has been doing ported subs for years in the pro applications.
You're welcome!
Dunno, in my time [mid '60s-80s], prosound didn't stuff anything since max acoustic efficiency was the goal and didn't know folks used polyfil in speaker building till I got on line in '96 and none were prosound, though haven't tried to stay current, so can only guess that they use it to wick heat away from the driver and/or to tune it lower under load than when lightly damped.
GM
Dunno, in my time [mid '60s-80s], prosound didn't stuff anything since max acoustic efficiency was the goal and didn't know folks used polyfil in speaker building till I got on line in '96 and none were prosound, though haven't tried to stay current, so can only guess that they use it to wick heat away from the driver and/or to tune it lower under load than when lightly damped.
GM
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.