Outdo B&C 21DS115 and upgrade for modular sub system

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What's wrong with putting the 21 in the desired cab size? So what, the native response ain't flat. You'll be using eq anyhow so just eq the way you want it. That will likely still outperform most other options. And how much material will be using that boosted range anyhow? Probably not enough to cause thermal issues. With the dsp we have today, you can build the cab you want, drop in the best driver you can afford, and let the dsp shape it.
 
Smitske96:
t.

The question for Eighteensound is how much real usable cone excursion would I get with this one. The 21DS115 does quite well to 17mm. The Eighteensound would need to reach for 4 more mm to get me interested in the change, and that only for purpose of usage under the box tuning, to stretch it even further.
ive used many eighteensound drivers in the past,and most of them go wel beyond their rated x-max without damage,while still sounding decent(that is subjective)
i'm sure the ntlw5000 will reach their rated x-max of 17.5mm without a problem.
that said ,it needs a slightly bigger cab then the ds.


i simmed al 3 drivers ,but a 185 ltr(140~150ltr sim)i cant get anything decent down to 27hz


i'm intressted to see what you com up with
 
USRFobiwan: Yes, I was looking at these. Yet I didn´t find any, which I would consider worthy for the value, efficient, usable in compact box, usable for wide bandwidth (25-100Hz) and so on. Sundown, PSI, DD, Magnat, some others...

epa:
Depends on what you look for, when you think decent. Of course, it is compromise. I´m basically looking for best output in the particular volume more than certain output and then looking in what volume can that be achieved.

I did some slight touches to the previous box plan I posted, to refine it.
Outer box size with all parts is 58*60*75cm. 135l netto, RAW tuning 29Hz, with very moderate padding pulled down to 28Hz. Wheels, handles, legs, sledge for good handling.

I´ll try my best to find some time to build a prototype, so I can test and measure how it works for me. Then I present results, decide if it is a good way, and if it is, I´ll get two bins made...
 
Well, the box should be 73cm tall, but when you add legs, it gets 75cm tall...
It is still a lot volume, and I might end up not being happy. But it is 50l less from the original, already "compact" box, and it will have much better ergonomics.
I mean 135l for the chamber.
Anyway, I will try the prototype, and then see how I like it. Maybe it is all very bad idea, maybe I will like it. The main purpose of the change is to ease up on transportation.

I hear you on the wheels. I can clearly imagine how larger ones would do better. Especially on grass or uneven terrain. Yet there is not much space to put these unless one wants to make the box even bigger. But the smaller the box is, the less use those wheels have. Sooo. I wonder.
 
The idea of some sort of low-rider cart flew over my mind, but it seems to me like not very bright idea. One has to load the box on it, unload, and also there is some trouble when going through some obstacles. I mean it doesn't hold on the box permanently, which migh be a problem.

I see no issue with tilting. Looks to me more like ordinary wheeled bags. That is okay in my mid. Lightyears better than what I have now / low, larger, very un-ergonomic box without any aid to move it.

If you see some issue in that, please let me know. I might not spot it as you do...
60-65cm, 45-50kg heavy box rolling on the floor doesn´t look like a problem to me at this moment. Think about 50kg box with bad shape, only 65cm high already, when I try to push or pull it on already quite grippy legs. Then I need to pick it from the ground completely, grabbing onto handles 35cm high above the ground, and carrying it the whole way to the point of new position. THAT is a back killer, and that is what I have now.

But if you have some idea on how to improve all this, don´t hesitate to put down my stupid ideas, and to offer something more usable...
 
I only see trouble in this solution.
Takes more space, when it breaks down you end up in very bad situation, when gets stolen too, With greater obstacles than plain ground one is risking losing the box on the way (potential damage too). It obviously works with certain usage, but I don´t like it in "my circumstances". I´m rather thinking about non-permanent solution. How about wheels one can easily attach and disconnect. That would be cool.
 
here's my favorite wheel solution so far....(both parts found at PE)

The corner wheels are 4" in dia.
The rubber feet are 1.5" in dia and 3/4" high

The wheels extend 1.25" below the bottom of sub/mounting bracket, so the bottom rear of the sub rests on the wheels off the ground.

I put the rubber feet under the rubber feet under the front of the sub, and add a 1/2" spacer to the feet , which lets the whole sub sit level 1.25" off the ground.

It's good vibration isolation, and serves as the necessary blocking when worried about rain puddles outdoors.

Biggest thing is, it makes the sub instantly easily movable :D
 

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How about wheels one can easily attach and disconnect. That would be cool.
That's the solution I prefer, a two-wheel (or four wheel) hand truck with pneumatic wheels. Put skids or feet under the sub, the platform can slide under, tilt and roll. The two big wheels easily go over bumps, cracks, ramps, even small curbs. I weigh 140 pounds, but can haul over 200 pounds of cabinets on a two wheel dolly with no problem, and guide them into any spot, that won't happen with a tilt back cabinet.

I've had over 50 tilt back cabinets in my systems last century, no more..
 

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That's the solution I prefer, a two-wheel (or four wheel) hand truck with pneumatic wheels. Put skids or feet under the sub, the platform can slide under, tilt and roll. The two big wheels easily go over bumps, cracks, ramps, even small curbs. I weigh 140 pounds, but can haul over 200 pounds of cabinets on a two wheel dolly with no problem, and guide them into any spot, that won't happen with a tilt back cabinet.

I've had over 50 tilt back cabinets in my systems last century, no more..

Hi Art, hope all is going well.

For PA only, I completely agree with you.

For home and PA, with maybe an emphasis on home (that I'm gathering from OP, maybe incorrectly)...I really like the tilt back for ease of getting around in the house, out to deck, etc.
 
Hi Art, hope all is going well.

For PA only, I completely agree with you.

For home and PA, with maybe an emphasis on home (that I'm gathering from OP, maybe incorrectly)...I really like the tilt back for ease of getting around in the house, out to deck, etc.
Mark,

All is well, working on fixing up my guest house, been using my dolly for stuff other than PA, now for sale- Midas M32R, Keystone subs, SynTripP cabinets, anyone?

With a two wheel dolly, one can put a refrigerator into position between kitchen cabinets, or a stacking washer dryer into a spot only an inch wider than it. Can't do that with a tilt back cabinet with wheels on the back without a lot of shoving and re-painting ;^).

One of the defining moments in moving away from tilt back cabinets was stagehands tripping and rolling over on top of the cabinets, grill down.
Several bass bins foam grills absorbed New York City gutter water (like dumpster juice).
When we next opened the truck in St. Paul, the smell gagged us, all the grills went directly into the trash.
 
Well, except for the need for dedicated device (can get lost, stolen, damaged, as it happened to me before, with aluminum cheap one) I really like the approach proposed by weltersys. Because that way it can easily go over some obstacles. With good arranement of the speaker box sledge, one can even have those small wheels mounted anyway, and use the big two wheel tool in case of two small wheels on the box are not sufficient ...
Now I beliee I have this thing sorted out.
 
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