13” ScanSpeak, Fusion FA501 sub build

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I built this pair of subs in 2013 with ScanSpeak 32W/4878T‘s and powered with REL 500w plate amplifiers a friend gave me.

They have worked well with my Troel’s designed Ekta Grande, all ScanSpeak driver, speakers. Really well actually.

One of the plate amps gave up the ghost a couple of weeks ago, so I’ve been looking for alternatives.

I really wanted to find an amp that would fit the existing opening, but couldn’t find one that I liked.

Seems like DSP and class D amps are getting better and better, and some really high end speakers are going all digital, so I thought this might be a good place to jump in and learn. So I bought a pair of Hypex Fusion plate amps. They are set to deliver tomorrow. Extra bonus, they have a remote!

I will have to fabricate a new back box and panel to the rear of the cabinet to cover the old opening and protect the amp. The REL amp doesn’t require this.

The cabinets are a basic sealed design, 3/4” MDF, lined with Bitumen pads, stuffed with Ultra Touch Denim insulation, prepped and painted with Chromax automotive products, single stage black. 16 1/4” h x 16 1/4” w x 20” d.

I haven’t found much info on diy’ers using this sub and almost none on using these new Fusion plate amplifiers. So comments welcome!

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The amps arrived direct from Hypex as scheduled.

After work today I started on building their new home.

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The additional bracing on the rear panel can’t hurt. Next up is to make the back look pretty again!

I’ve had a couple email exchanges with a speaker designer familiar with my Ekta’s and Hypex plate amps for advice.

“The FA501 should work very well with the 32W woofers.
Point of crossover and slope has to be tried, but fortunately easy in the HFD software.
The EktaGs are not particularly bass-shy, so I would try a 4th order filter around 50-65-80 Hz and hear what happens.
You can program the three pre-sets for various options and quickly change the setting.
You may also try stuffing the Ekta vents to make a 1. order roll-off and hear how this integrates with the subwoofers.
Implementing subwoofers is nowhere trivial and can go on for ever, but the Hypex DSP will give you an endless range of options for optimal integration with speakers and room.”


Hopefully by the weekend I’ll be playing around and learning the HFD software.
 
Today I finished the physical install of the plate amps.

Did a quick swipe of body filler to level out the recessed screws and cracks.

Then a patch of matte black laminate to cover the repairs/changes. For the backside I don’t think it looks too bad. Kind of matches the amps.

I ordered the Hypex remote receiver too. Since my cabinet has no face to mount it I built a 1 1/2” base to contain the receiver and then used the same feet I have on my Ekta Grandes now.

Amps have a better presence now (looks wise).

Caulking for the wiring needs to dry overnight, tomorrow might try to start playing with the software.

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Coast,

Very nice work on the cabinet build and finish. As you know, most of the engineering is all done with the more advanced motor designs of transducers available today. Although I am much more of a fan of “pro” woofer lines, ScanSpeak’s 13 inch is quite nice in and of itself. Slap on a well designed DSP/plate amp combo and you’re done. Sealed alignments are also super easy and predictable.

It’s time to post some measurements, move those subs around the room and get them dialed in!

I am just here to cheer you on being a firm disciple/apostle of multisubs! ;)

Best,
Anand.
 
It's easy to get nothing from those amps. I spent my first evening scratching my head. My first step now is to drop in a 10Hz or whatever high pass filter to enable the output. Spend some time in the setup windows too. There are a few things you need to look at in there as well.

I see what you mean, takes some time to figure out how to get these set up.

I use iPads a home and work now for the last 3 years or so, my old laptop was having issues installing the software, so ran out and picked up another one. After getting the new laptop started up and loading the HFD software, I tried to figure out how to actually use it. Manual not very user friendly to get started.

Luckily I found that Troels has step by step instructions for the HFD software for one of his speaker projects. (Hypex-PSC2.400d). Going through that taught me how the software works.

Next step is to actually learn all the terms, what they mean, and how everything changes the sound. Should keep me busy for a few years!

I had ordered a set of new XLR cables to feed these from my preamp. They arrived late yesterday. Hope to get some more time this afternoon to see if I can get these running.

Thanks for posting
 
Coast,

Very nice work on the cabinet build and finish. As you know, most of the engineering is all done with the more advanced motor designs of transducers available today. Although I am much more of a fan of “pro” woofer lines, ScanSpeak’s 13 inch is quite nice in and of itself. Slap on a well designed DSP/plate amp combo and you’re done. Sealed alignments are also super easy and predictable.

It’s time to post some measurements, move those subs around the room and get them dialed in!

I am just here to cheer you on being a firm disciple/apostle of multisubs! ;)

Best,
Anand.

Thanks for the compliments!

I think the ScanSpeak is a solid performer, but If I was building from new today I might go for a 15” pro woofer line.

After I learn about speaker terms, software, and measuring I post some measurements!

Thanks for taking the time to post.
 
Spent the last 3 days playing with my audio toys.

Pulled all the equipment out of the cabinet I built, then rebuilt it back, 30” shorter and more organized.

Upgraded a couple more cables to Transparent “Ultra”, subs connected with Transparent “Musiclink Plus” XLR’s.

Modified the active RAKK DAC with Crydom MCX240D5 relays and 1/8” jack so now powers on with the trigger from the McIntosh.

Then last but not least, started on the subs. Had to work up the courage.

So after a couple hours playing around, mostly following Troels step by step, I thought I had everything right, but no sound. Then on the home screen I started moving up the volume slider. Slowly as I moved it forward I could start to feel some energy. Yea!

So slid it up about 3/4” of the way. Pretty amazing power. Then uploaded the same file to the second sub, all went well there too. Had to stop and listen for a couple hours and enjoy my work!

Only problem, the volume adjustment goes back down after power up/down. Need to spend some more time reading and learning. But at least I know all is running, just up to programming now.

One build comment. Adding the remote control module is more than just convienence. There is a power on green LED to let you know it’s on, and while I was playing around, at high volumes mind you, the green light was blinking red. I guess letting me know it was hitting the high threshold. Nice feature.

In the pic you can see the little green light, center at the bottom.

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Great looking setup. Now put an outlet behind your tv and hide those cables :\

Thanks!

About those cables.

Here in Hawaii (I live in Kahala) a lot of houses were built using “single wall construction”. My entire house is built with 3/4” x 8” tongue and groove redwood planks. Including exterior walls, no framing, no drywall, no insulation, no structure. Since the walls are only 3/4” thick I had to use sex bolts to hang the TV!

To hide the cables on the living room side they would show in the office on the other side.

We have small window AC units in the bedrooms and the living room, but really only used maybe 2-3 months a year some afternoons.

Most of the year, like now, nice breezes through the jalousie windows.

Maybe a sock?
 
Made a little more progress on the amps.

I’ve been reading for a few hours and through hundreds of posts, for information. But you know how it goes, lots of stuff that doesn’t help.

So posting my progress to help those like me that are audio handicapped.

So figured out why after I saved the file to the DSP with the volume raised that it would drop back to -40 dB after a power cycle. It’s in one of the settings on the device settings page. If you have a higher setting here that’s where is going to go back to after a power cycle.

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The lowest setting is -3db. For my first round of setting up it works for me.

I’m just glad it’s pumping out some deep base and nothing went wrong. I’ve read some posts about a woofer coming apart, DOA amps, and a few other bad stories. Spent a 3-4 hours kicking back and enjoying today.

So far with the simple settings I’m getting house shaking base when it’s called for and subtle when it’s not.

Enjoying the journey so far.
 
CTC,

Perusing some back issues of Voice Coil today and found this:
https://pearl-hifi.com/06_Lit_Archive/15_Mfrs_Publications/40_Voice_Coil/2013/2013_03_Mar.pdf

Go to page 20, where Vance talks about your woofer, and pay *particular* attention to the Klippel measurements. They are excellent.

As much as it is possible that certain manufacturers continuously manufacture well performing drivers, I am a much bigger believer in 3rd party measurements and Klippel particularly for woofers. This sets a level of accountability such that we don’t buy drivers just based on T/S parameters which can be woefully lacking in helping us separate the boys from the men so to speak!

A pity it’s $556 each, but at least, it’s well designed...Scan-Speak 32W/4878T Revelator 13" Subwoofer: Madisound Speaker Components

Enjoy!

Best,
Anand.
 
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CTC,

Perusing some back issues of Voice Coil today and found this:
https://pearl-hifi.com/06_Lit_Archive/15_Mfrs_Publications/40_Voice_Coil/2013/2013_03_Mar.pdf

Go to page 20, where Vance talks about your woofer, and pay *particular* attention to the Klippel measurements. They are excellent.

As much as it is possible that certain manufacturers continuously manufacture well performing drivers, I am a much bigger believer in 3rd party measurements and Klippel particularly for woofers. This sets a level of accountability such that we don’t buy drivers just based on T/S parameters which can be woefully lacking in helping us separate the boys from the men so to speak!

A pity it’s $556 each, but at least, it’s well designed...Scan-Speak 32W/4878T Revelator 13" Subwoofer: Madisound Speaker Components

Enjoy!

Best,
Anand.
Thanks for sharing!

Your right, the price of entry is high, especially in pairs!

But referencing the review, maybe worth it.
 
So I read a little, learn a little, play a little.

Today I learned that on the device settings page, volume on startup, you can also choose “not configured”, which lets the volume stay where you set it, all the way to 0db.

Then set up a 4th order filter, as I was advised, preset 1 @ 50hz, preset 2 @ 65hz, and preset 3 @ 80hz. For this I followed page 23 of the Hypex manual.

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Didn’t have much time after to try them out today, maybe tomorrow.
 
Im following your thread with great interest.

why did you choose to build the subs closed instead of with af passive radiator?
How deep will they go with your chosen cabinet size ?
I have one of the 32w/4878t00 drivers waiting to build a sub to supplement my Troels Gravesen DTQWT II 's - they play very nice and dynamic bass down to 40 Hz but not much lower and I would like to have the possibility to go a bit lower when playing Organ music.
 
Im following your thread with great interest.

why did you choose to build the subs closed instead of with af passive radiator?
How deep will they go with your chosen cabinet size ?
I have one of the 32w/4878t00 drivers waiting to build a sub to supplement my Troels Gravesen DTQWT II 's - they play very nice and dynamic bass down to 40 Hz but not much lower and I would like to have the possibility to go a bit lower when playing Organ music.

Sorry, missed your post.

I’m still learning, so I don’t have a great answer for you. Most of what I’m read is that sealed is more accurate. My Ekta Grandes have good bass as they are, and ported, so thought that making the subs at the other end the spectrum would make a good balance.

I haven’t measured them, so I can’t say for sure how low they go. But I can say that at normal listening levels inside I can still feel the bass outside in the yard, even when I can’t hear the music out there.
 
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