Is my subwoofer or my amp broken?

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I've just bought a used Behringer B1500D-PRO active sub, but it is not functioning correctly.

It distorts and rattles loudly even when played at low volumes and is pretty much unusable. The rattling seems to resonate throughout the entire box, although the driver seems to be the main focus of the rattle. I've checked the exterior of the whole enclosure and I cannot find any breaks, splits or gaps that would suggest the enclosure is not airtight. There also doesn't seem to be any gaps around where the driver attaches onto the enclosure.

I've tried playing music through it using from an audio interface and also from just a phone (using a male xlr/jack lead with a jack to mini jack converter), and the cables I am using work fine with my monitors so I think is unlikely that there is any problem with the input.

I detached the driver from the enclosure and found that the spider had partially separated from the edge of the metal part that houses the coil. I assumed that this was the cause of the problem, however I glued this back together with an appropriate glue type and the sub is still broken. The spider is fixed but the sub still doesn't work.

I'm still fairly new to the world of subwoofers so I'm unsure at the moment if it's the coil that is broken (is unaligned or something), or the amp. If the coil is broken is this fixable at all? Or is it worth just purchasing a new driver: Woofer for B1500D-PRO by Behringer, X77-00000-03607 | Full Compass Systems

It is worth noting that when the sub first arrived I accidentally plugged an XLR into the 'Thru' output on the sub and tried to play music through this rather than the input. Maybe this is what screwed it up?

Any help much appreciated!
 
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Yes, but do it gently.

A test recording of a low frequency tone <5Hz can also reveal mechanical rubbing. The cone should move noiselessly in and out. This test requires that the driving amplifier can respond to such low levels.
 
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Most 'Hi-Fi' amps should drive a speaker at that kind of frequency. You could always (having disconnected the driver first) connect it to a normal system to test.

Its dead easy to create a test tone on a PC in any of the common formats. If you want one I can post it here.
 
Mooly is driving you towards testing the speaker out of circuit, if you are happy disconnecting it from its sub-amp just try it with any other amplifier. It will sound poor as it is a sub but should sound musical within its bandwidth.
 
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If I test the driver outside of the box will it damage the driver? I've read online that it can.

I'm in the process of fixing my stereo amp, so once this is done I will disconnect the driver from the built-in amp and test it with the stereo amp. I assume this means I will have to solder the driver back on afterward if I want to reconnect it?

And yes, @Mooly if you could provide a link to a test tone that would be much appreciated!

Thanks all for your help.
 
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Here you go.

The four MP3 files attached here are each 30 seconds @ 20Hz, 10Hz, 5Hz and finally a sweep from 20Hz down to 1Hz. I think the low frequency response of most MP3 players might roll off around 20Hz.

The Dropbox Link has the same files in WAV format. If these are burned to a CDR/RW then they should go all the way down when played on a standard CD player. They probably would do the same played on suitable hardware as well (PC, good portable player etc).

Nothing to download or install with Dropbox. Just look for the download file link on the page.

DROPBOX FILES
 

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