Ive built some downfiring subs using dayton 10 inch high output reference subwoofers.
One of my fears has come to pass.
They have a ridiculously heavy aluminium cone (250 grams) and despite having 25kg of chassis, magnet and cabinet sitting on them, at high volumes the things start to skitter across the floor. Am i going to have to put an anvil on top of them?
I thought about some sticky, spongy feet under the plastic feet, which would probably keep them from walking out of the door, but i fear that letting the boxes vibrate is not good.
Cannot bolt them to the floor either, it's a stone floor with antique tiles in a rented house.
Any ideas?
One of my fears has come to pass.
They have a ridiculously heavy aluminium cone (250 grams) and despite having 25kg of chassis, magnet and cabinet sitting on them, at high volumes the things start to skitter across the floor. Am i going to have to put an anvil on top of them?
I thought about some sticky, spongy feet under the plastic feet, which would probably keep them from walking out of the door, but i fear that letting the boxes vibrate is not good.
Cannot bolt them to the floor either, it's a stone floor with antique tiles in a rented house.
Any ideas?
1. Pile bags of sand or something else on top of them until they stop moving at high volume
2. Measure the weight of those bags
3. Make a nice slab of stone/concrete/corian/etc. of the same or greater weight for the tops of the subs.
4. Wow people with your new side table subs that match the rest of the room's decor...
The feet i bought are some adjustable aluminium furniture feet. I assumed the black stuff on the bottom of them was rubber on ordering, but actually its hard plastic. I'll look at some sticky rubber thingies.
Maybe i could stick another set of the rubber thingies to the floor. Spikes would be hard to add at this stage, and i think they wouldnt play well with floortiles!
Maybe i could stick another set of the rubber thingies to the floor. Spikes would be hard to add at this stage, and i think they wouldnt play well with floortiles!
Robin,
3M makes a variety of wall mount adhesives that are very sticky, strong, yet removable.
They would stick to the plastic feet and the floor (if clean), probably prevent moving even at full tilt boogie without needing anvils or sand-bags.
Art
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I recommend starting by swapping the plastic feet for an attached full size [flat] base covered over at least 70% of its bottom area with scrap carpet or underlayment or similar to spread out the load and keep from scratching/cracking the tiles, then add a massive weight such as a heavy plant or similar on top of it to couple it to the floor. An anvil if heavy enough will of course work too!
BTW, with such a heavy cone, is it rated for down firing? Resources - Woofer Mount Up Down
GM
Hehe thanks for all the replies. I did also consider getting some stone slabs cut to match, but the subs have big rounded corners on the sides, and i dread to think how much thick cnc cut stone costs.
I'm in the midst of building a coffee table and using a granite remnant for the top. Trust me, the granite might as well be free versus the cut/finishing costs. I ultimately went with just getting the pieces cut to size and I'm going to rabbet the frame to accept the granite (structural edge trim, so to speak).
But, yes, starting with a proper rubber foot rather than a slick plastic one may make all the difference.
Hm, well when i researched the drivers a year ago, iirc, the sag rating was around 4% which according to that site should be ok, and ive not seen any problematic reviews from people who have used them downfiring.
Its unfortunate that during my long build discussion thread, nobody mentioned this as a problem, before i made sawdust..!
What are the symptoms of a sagging cone? And if it has sagged after a while, can i flip them on their sides and continue using them? Id rather not do that now, the design is very much a downfiring one, and the undersides are not finished to the standard of the rest. Plus the terminals are there.
Its unfortunate that during my long build discussion thread, nobody mentioned this as a problem, before i made sawdust..!
What are the symptoms of a sagging cone? And if it has sagged after a while, can i flip them on their sides and continue using them? Id rather not do that now, the design is very much a downfiring one, and the undersides are not finished to the standard of the rest. Plus the terminals are there.
Attachments
Ok revisiting the datasheet, i see the mms is 201 grams. Cms is 0.17mm/n, so according to the formula, cone sag is 2.72 percent, assuming xmax in datasheet is one way excursion.
So should be fine..? Cone is heavy, but surround is like a tractor tyre, whole thing is designed for lots of watts in a small box.
So should be fine..? Cone is heavy, but surround is like a tractor tyre, whole thing is designed for lots of watts in a small box.
OK, was just checking out of habit.
Hope I didn't otherwise post on it.........
Yes, Xmax is one way, so assuming the driver's specs aren't too far off [no experience with any Dayton drivers], then you should be fine unless regularly pushing them beyond Xmax like might happen when watching action or similar movies with a lot of LFE content or pipe organ symphonies at anywhere near THX reference or higher.
Worst case scenario is you bounce the VC off the back plate, maybe damaging it, which in turn can bind it in the gap causing a meltdown; all of which can happen in the proverbial 'blink of an eye'.
If it does start to be obviously distended, either flip it over and use it till it obviously sags again [may make obvious noise from its vent at high power], but based on 2.72% I don't see this happening unless there's something in the air that can erode the surround's surface over time.
GM
I think if they are vibrating that much, trying to just "stick them to the floor" is a false approach. You might stop them from dancing, but that vibration will still be muddying up your bass.
If you have the room, and aesthetics are OK, the "Anvil" approach is much better. Just get some concrete blocks, cover them in whatever material the subs are made of, and plop them on top.
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Alt: Just put party hats on top of the subs, and enjoy the show.
If you have the room, and aesthetics are OK, the "Anvil" approach is much better. Just get some concrete blocks, cover them in whatever material the subs are made of, and plop them on top.
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Alt: Just put party hats on top of the subs, and enjoy the show.
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