If you ever get a chance or opportunity to check one out or similar it’s unique.
Paraflex, roar, alternate configured paraflex, large and chamber volumes in tapped pipes, etc....
There’s a place in between the akwardness of group delay and far from booming or muddy bass that is the polar opposite sort of sound and transient behavior maybe?
if bass reflex or mltl is used for the lowest notes (15-40hz) and a tapped pipe hybrid is used for 40-100hz. while none are audiophile types of sound reproduction, there’s something very impressive in that combo that makes aggressive or exciting music and theatrical stuff very intense. it’s full of ways to not technically appreciate it, but the correct application has few people who don’t find it addictive if they can get the right combo and not a dud...
I’ve had a couple duds, too small transflex, too big and long paraflex. but if motor force is huge, path length (s) are not 20 hz and 60... Vas and path sizing is tight.... :nuke: That’s the recipe!!
Still trying to find both in one cabinet, a never ending pipe dream, lol! But meanwhile I use a paraflex/roar with and isobaric rear vented MLTL(there’s probably a better name for that sort of thing, lol) to try and cover all the lowest octave. kinda cool, but not ‘perfect’. Perfect is just a straight TL, or sealed (imo)...? no flare, no taper, just a qw length or nothing...
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I’m Trying to get rid of anything above Fb(quickly sounds bad often)and try to get rid of the <30 hz or so low Fb and lots of group delay combo cause it’s heat in a voice coil and inductance and vent noise, and xmax, and .... everything I’m trying to avoid and give to bass reflex or MLTL instead, or keep it at Fb...
Putting 4 eminence 21 tours in a version of this is happening in Texas. A brave and excessively awesome basshead/qw nerd is ‘going for the ‘bEans. Trying to not to burn them up at 24 hz is going to be interesting..
Group delay to bassheads = ya'll late to the party
lol! but maybe we can accept some at the lowest frequencies if playing around?... i hate it in the midband or up top, its been a source of bad cabinets and funky sound for me in these. but a tall skinnny sliver of it at midband i can ignore. i thin. but i dont think i can otherwise... its ruined the delivery or seems the opposite of the avoided area if at lowest frequencies?
a price of snappy bass requires another for the lowest. i use two cabinets...
I've played with your drivers data. Sorry, as i play, i'm as always doing stuff my way
Having fun with closed back triple front bandpass box, kind of 8th order closed back, lol
432 liters, first capture is input, second capture is max output with 3rd order HP@30hz for limiting excursion to +/-15mm
Third capture is another one, with smoother phase/response/GD, 720 liters
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I’m not too scared of chuffing way upstream or in the high pressure end (within reason)but what I am after is the difference in delivery of sound or result in a real tapped pipe or horn shape that’s got a mouth entry tap far up into it but instead of sounding honky, nasally or awkward and not boomy, diluted etc either..
I guess there’s a name for it, or description but the taped motor side is giving a little more gitty up to the system and to the potentially droopy midband area result if a large area of mouth downstream can be a lot of things... but ‘snappy, and punchy’ is fair, not too far off? It gets downright violent with that driver in a paraflex.
The heat thing is a great point! and if lingering in the lowest notes is a thing then it’s a potential disaster like you mentioned. In fact the very concern of a current buildproject with 4 6012 emminience tour 21s in a 24-25 (?( hz tune) ‘caraudio’ Project a friend in Texas has begun cutting the wood for.. a far bit ahead of my needs or usefulness, but exciting no mater what. thinking of some cheap thermocouples on the motors to a dash temp reading or similar?
I guess there’s a name for it, or description but the taped motor side is giving a little more gitty up to the system and to the potentially droopy midband area result if a large area of mouth downstream can be a lot of things... but ‘snappy, and punchy’ is fair, not too far off? It gets downright violent with that driver in a paraflex.
The heat thing is a great point! and if lingering in the lowest notes is a thing then it’s a potential disaster like you mentioned. In fact the very concern of a current buildproject with 4 6012 emminience tour 21s in a 24-25 (?( hz tune) ‘caraudio’ Project a friend in Texas has begun cutting the wood for.. a far bit ahead of my needs or usefulness, but exciting no mater what. thinking of some cheap thermocouples on the motors to a dash temp reading or similar?
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This works, but I wanted a little more description of the expansion after the motorside tapped entty and of L12was to extend, it could simply be more length to the left and if polyfilled it has a long and thin version that really cleans up everything. I don’t know that it’s simmable that way or if swapping around some inputs, but this is tempting as it’s is .
and of L12was to extend, it could simply be more length to the left and if polyfilled it has a long and thin version that really cleans up everything. I don’t know that it’s simmable that way or if swapping around some inputs, but this is tempting as it’s is .Attachments
I'm quite a newbie when it comes to building speakers from scratch and still trying to really understand the different values related to cabinets and drivers.
I'm looking for something to beef up the low end of a 12 inch PA system for light outdoor and some indoor use as well. I have recently gained access to a proper table saw so making straight and accurate cuts of plywood should not be an issue.
I was originally thinking of building a ROAR15 but this discussion got me thinking if the HROAR might be interesting to try out. Outdoors I have only a limited amount of power available (in the order of 150W for a 8ohm speaker from a TPA3255) so a high efficiency woofer would be preferred.
Do you think a HROAR based on B&C 12 or 15TBX100 would work for this purpose? Music to be played would be mostly hard rock and metal to EDM and techno and some mainstream pop as well. Not really jazz or classical music or similar.
I'm looking for something to beef up the low end of a 12 inch PA system for light outdoor and some indoor use as well. I have recently gained access to a proper table saw so making straight and accurate cuts of plywood should not be an issue.
I was originally thinking of building a ROAR15 but this discussion got me thinking if the HROAR might be interesting to try out. Outdoors I have only a limited amount of power available (in the order of 150W for a 8ohm speaker from a TPA3255) so a high efficiency woofer would be preferred.
Do you think a HROAR based on B&C 12 or 15TBX100 would work for this purpose? Music to be played would be mostly hard rock and metal to EDM and techno and some mainstream pop as well. Not really jazz or classical music or similar.
I can’t speak for HROAR or ROAR, but I wouldn’t worry that either of those drivers wouldn’t be excellent in a big high order enclosure like these especially with those types of music .
15ds115,15nw100,15sw115,12tbx100,12pg100. Pretty stellar and reliable it seems, but definitely can sim impressive. If deep or Low means 36-40hz Fb. then you’re probably looking in the right spot?
Here’s what I’m using (car audio brand Chinese made USA sold)
Sd507
Fs38.5
Re3.9
Le4.2
Vas22.5
Qes.34
Qms5.15
Xmax 15
1000w
Pretty much a 12 tbx in sim with a little less impressive output, but a litttle lower tune .
15ds115,15nw100,15sw115,12tbx100,12pg100. Pretty stellar and reliable it seems, but definitely can sim impressive. If deep or Low means 36-40hz Fb. then you’re probably looking in the right spot?
Here’s what I’m using (car audio brand Chinese made USA sold)
Sd507
Fs38.5
Re3.9
Le4.2
Vas22.5
Qes.34
Qms5.15
Xmax 15
1000w
Pretty much a 12 tbx in sim with a little less impressive output, but a litttle lower tune .
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I love this name
You can too model it as a serie 6rd with almost not front chamber (or cone volume at least ^^).