this is my first subwoofer build, hence I'm still guessing and relying on modeling software. Previously i read on my friend's built which used DVC of this subwoofer, when looking at good price of this item without breaking my wallet and good result on simulation, i think my friend had a good choice on drivers.
However they are discontinued, but I'm lucky to get second hand item - 3pcs already, looking for 1 more - but they are single voice coil version. When I put into online simulation, it seems SVC has lower Fb than DVC but double in box volume which is not an issue since this is for home subwoofer.
When i google on recomended box, most of the thread lead me to car subwoofer which ended between 1-1.25 cu.ft volume but simulation give me 2.2 cu.ft. I have no issue up to 3 cu.ft box volume.
Can i rely on software simulation for box volume? which volume should i build? i will use 2x18mm plywood with internal bracing and powered by nu3000dsp.
It will be very helpful if anyone can share any experience on using SVC of this item for home sealed subwoofer.
btw this is just for stereo music, no plan to make any home theater
However they are discontinued, but I'm lucky to get second hand item - 3pcs already, looking for 1 more - but they are single voice coil version. When I put into online simulation, it seems SVC has lower Fb than DVC but double in box volume which is not an issue since this is for home subwoofer.
When i google on recomended box, most of the thread lead me to car subwoofer which ended between 1-1.25 cu.ft volume but simulation give me 2.2 cu.ft. I have no issue up to 3 cu.ft box volume.
Can i rely on software simulation for box volume? which volume should i build? i will use 2x18mm plywood with internal bracing and powered by nu3000dsp.
It will be very helpful if anyone can share any experience on using SVC of this item for home sealed subwoofer.
btw this is just for stereo music, no plan to make any home theater
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go with 2 cubic feet and let it rip. the rec'd box volumes on the spec sheet are for car audio purposes. they rely on cabin gain to boost the low end, and use smaller than normal box sizes for sustained abuse.
so unless your listening room is about the size of a normal sedan, better off with the larger volume.
so unless your listening room is about the size of a normal sedan, better off with the larger volume.
series push push
my original plan was to build 1 driver on each box, but i think why not build push push directly. but the problem is that with 4ohm driver and nu3000dsp, i have no choice to put them in paralel and I rarely or maybe never read anyone post on their build by series connection.
I read that it might cause driver imbalance because voice coil act as voltage divider, but how significant is it for below 80Hz duty?
my original plan was to build 1 driver on each box, but i think why not build push push directly. but the problem is that with 4ohm driver and nu3000dsp, i have no choice to put them in paralel and I rarely or maybe never read anyone post on their build by series connection.
I read that it might cause driver imbalance because voice coil act as voltage divider, but how significant is it for below 80Hz duty?
Nothing wrong with series other than inductance increases, which with SS and a low XO point is not an issue. For individual driver protection though, I would wire them in 4 ohm stereo.
As for a target [damped] Qtc, if these will be driven hard enough to get/stay heated up, then system Qtc [sysQ] will rise, so the cab can further protect the driver at a loss in sound quality, which may not be noticed down this low; or for HIFI/HT, start with a larger cab/lower sysQ.
GM
As for a target [damped] Qtc, if these will be driven hard enough to get/stay heated up, then system Qtc [sysQ] will rise, so the cab can further protect the driver at a loss in sound quality, which may not be noticed down this low; or for HIFI/HT, start with a larger cab/lower sysQ.
GM
Thanks GM
I have attached WinISD simulation for this dual series arrangement. however WinISD only give parallel option, it can't be changed. with Q 0.707 the volume will be 112ltr, do you have any target Q estimation for that compensation? increasing the volume into 140Ltr resulting Q into 0.664.
btw, I find that T/S parameter for Vas provided by WinISD (83Ltr) vs is different with downloaded PDF (100Ltr). which one is usually correct?
I have attached WinISD simulation for this dual series arrangement. however WinISD only give parallel option, it can't be changed. with Q 0.707 the volume will be 112ltr, do you have any target Q estimation for that compensation? increasing the volume into 140Ltr resulting Q into 0.664.
btw, I find that T/S parameter for Vas provided by WinISD (83Ltr) vs is different with downloaded PDF (100Ltr). which one is usually correct?
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You're welcome!
Not really beyond make it as large as you can tolerate since in some HIFI/HT apps the driver's Qts can double in bass heavy soundtracks, requiring this driver to be tuned to the transient perfect 0.5 Qtc and maybe still technically too small, so some form of hi-pass EQ is normally used.
Probably neither since apparently WinISD calculated Vas Vs the pub's measured spec; IOW they should have matched and a good way to check accuracy if enough specs are provided; so again, when in doubt go with whichever calculates the largest cab for any baseline cab alignment to start with if for no other reason than it's a lot easier to 'shrink' it than enlarge it, though sealed is much more tolerant of cab net Vb tolerances than vented alignments.
GM
Not really beyond make it as large as you can tolerate since in some HIFI/HT apps the driver's Qts can double in bass heavy soundtracks, requiring this driver to be tuned to the transient perfect 0.5 Qtc and maybe still technically too small, so some form of hi-pass EQ is normally used.
Probably neither since apparently WinISD calculated Vas Vs the pub's measured spec; IOW they should have matched and a good way to check accuracy if enough specs are provided; so again, when in doubt go with whichever calculates the largest cab for any baseline cab alignment to start with if for no other reason than it's a lot easier to 'shrink' it than enlarge it, though sealed is much more tolerant of cab net Vb tolerances than vented alignments.
GM
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after almost 1yr finishing my renovation, started to continue this build. dry fitting outside walls with 18mm ply 55x55x53cm which roughly around 145L volume to get 0.7 Q, stuffing might be added or not later
I'm still planning and making layout on bracing and adding 1 more plywood to make thicker wall
I'm still planning and making layout on bracing and adding 1 more plywood to make thicker wall
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there will be 2 braces plus 4pcs of 20mm threaded rod connecting the walls that driver set and the braces will be locked thru threaded rod.
because I'm using rabbet join, alot of fine adjustment required to lock the panel accordingly. I spend alot of time to do allignment with corner clamps and belt clamps then I decided just hold it by hand then use nail gun. the result is incredibly good for first time build.
because I'm using rabbet join, alot of fine adjustment required to lock the panel accordingly. I spend alot of time to do allignment with corner clamps and belt clamps then I decided just hold it by hand then use nail gun. the result is incredibly good for first time build.
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glueing 2nd layer plywood and now i realise threaded rod hole is too far away from the center. that is the result of drilling holes before fitting the driver. I have moved it closer to the center and it's very sturdy now.
lifting 1 sheet of plywood was very hard alone, but now when thay are packed then center of mass make it easier to lift, not as heavy as i thought
lifting 1 sheet of plywood was very hard alone, but now when thay are packed then center of mass make it easier to lift, not as heavy as i thought
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@Troy
that is great that someone is in the same project plan as I do.
brace assembled but not glued yet, i have to ensure sealed threaded rod by giving plastic glue gun and melt it with heat gun. there should be no more air leak.
overall basic shape is done, next will add another 5 more plywood walls and this is gonna be a very heavy box
that is great that someone is in the same project plan as I do.
brace assembled but not glued yet, i have to ensure sealed threaded rod by giving plastic glue gun and melt it with heat gun. there should be no more air leak.
overall basic shape is done, next will add another 5 more plywood walls and this is gonna be a very heavy box
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completed this build and sounds good, powered by behringer nu3000dsp and drivers connected in paralel. i haven't tested to max volume yet because it started to rattle my kitchen hod badly
now i have to prepare to build 2nd subwoofer to utilize 2nd channel on behringer
now i have to prepare to build 2nd subwoofer to utilize 2nd channel on behringer
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for me as holiday woodworker only and all my wife complain about the dust, it really need a huge effort to start every new cuts