Hi guys
I've got a REL 9T sub with a blown amp. I can get a replacement from REL but they sell the complete module, not just the amp board. So a bit pricey....
Instead of replacing the whole lot I thought I'd just be able to replace the amp board with say a class d module. Use the original input and filter board still fixed to the mounting plate. Looking at the cable that connects the input board to the amp board it appears to have 5 cables, I thought it would only have 2 for the audio input.
Not sure if this input board requires power, maybe these are the other wires?
Anyone had experience replacing an amp on a REL sub?
Cheers
I've got a REL 9T sub with a blown amp. I can get a replacement from REL but they sell the complete module, not just the amp board. So a bit pricey....
Instead of replacing the whole lot I thought I'd just be able to replace the amp board with say a class d module. Use the original input and filter board still fixed to the mounting plate. Looking at the cable that connects the input board to the amp board it appears to have 5 cables, I thought it would only have 2 for the audio input.
Not sure if this input board requires power, maybe these are the other wires?
Anyone had experience replacing an amp on a REL sub?
Cheers
Change is opportunity.
Plate amps are an excuse for manufacturers to make shoddy (but adequate) goods but hide them from view. The controls and crossover(s) are likely to be minimally adequate.
What I'd do is keep the pretty face plate but change over to an external DSP and generic amp. Hard for me to believe any serious DIY enthusiast is limping by today without a miniDSP or Behringer DCX2496 (my favourite).
This may be more than you feel like doing.
B.
Plate amps are an excuse for manufacturers to make shoddy (but adequate) goods but hide them from view. The controls and crossover(s) are likely to be minimally adequate.
What I'd do is keep the pretty face plate but change over to an external DSP and generic amp. Hard for me to believe any serious DIY enthusiast is limping by today without a miniDSP or Behringer DCX2496 (my favourite).
This may be more than you feel like doing.
B.
Gonna disagree with Ben.
REL makes some really good stuff, and you can bet your bottom dollar they've done some very specific EQing and limiting for that particular driver and amp combination.
Ben's suggestion of bypassing all of REL's hard work is bonkers, IMO.
If you can isolate the power amplifier specifically, you'll need to find one with similar gain and power output, that also runs on the same power supply rails. That's non-trivial, but not impossible. If the power amp board also manages power supply duties for the input section, you're going to have a much more difficult time - the input section absolutely needs power.
If you ask very nicely, they might even tell you how much gain the power amp should have.
Chris
REL makes some really good stuff, and you can bet your bottom dollar they've done some very specific EQing and limiting for that particular driver and amp combination.
Ben's suggestion of bypassing all of REL's hard work is bonkers, IMO.
If you can isolate the power amplifier specifically, you'll need to find one with similar gain and power output, that also runs on the same power supply rails. That's non-trivial, but not impossible. If the power amp board also manages power supply duties for the input section, you're going to have a much more difficult time - the input section absolutely needs power.
If you ask very nicely, they might even tell you how much gain the power amp should have.
Chris
Or just fix the amp? There is a write on this site or AVS on the specifics. I'm having my two amps rebuilt by a local tech right now. I have a bunch of spare replacement parts if they will work. I think mine are Stadium III and Storm II or III. If you find my spares will work I can drop them in an envelope.
Vince
Vince
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