In the search for ever less intrusive subwoofer solutions I came across the BG Radia BGX series. These high end things can be mounted either in-wall or on-wall and if you have a bunch of them, they apparently can go really loud..
It appears as though these are simply a bunch of small woofers in a separate closed boxes, strung together to radiate into a plenum.
Now I found these: Tymphany W1640 | DIY which is about 11 euro's per tiny "subwoofer". one could buy 4 packs of 6 and string them together into two groups of 12, just like the BGX.
The plenum will probably lower the FS a bit, helping with the power handling. Is there any way to simulate this? On-wall mounting would also help raising the low end since you essentially get a huge baffle. One could even use a Peerless 830878 PR to boost power handling, but it would double the cost, and buying more driver for the same amount of money would be more efficient anyway
The idea would be to make some "sound absorbing" panels for behind the speakers that would contain these tiny subs and absorbing material. Should be fairly inconspicuous..
It appears as though these are simply a bunch of small woofers in a separate closed boxes, strung together to radiate into a plenum.
Now I found these: Tymphany W1640 | DIY which is about 11 euro's per tiny "subwoofer". one could buy 4 packs of 6 and string them together into two groups of 12, just like the BGX.
The plenum will probably lower the FS a bit, helping with the power handling. Is there any way to simulate this? On-wall mounting would also help raising the low end since you essentially get a huge baffle. One could even use a Peerless 830878 PR to boost power handling, but it would double the cost, and buying more driver for the same amount of money would be more efficient anyway
The idea would be to make some "sound absorbing" panels for behind the speakers that would contain these tiny subs and absorbing material. Should be fairly inconspicuous..
71dB efficiency is remarkably low. Using 12 drivers will get you up to around 80dB ...which is still remarkably low.
If you wanted to stay with this concept, you could simply angle the driver baffles, allowing you to fit larger (more efficient) woofers into the same depth of enclosure.
Look up PPSL (push pull slot loaded) designs. They have a plenum, and I don't think that they lower Fs.
Yes. Depending on how your room is constructed, putting the plenum in a wall & ceiling boundary, or in a corner, would be even better.
If what you want is a 4" thick wall mounted LF system, and you don't really care how the drivers are arrayed, you might find that you get better value from normally arranged, low profile subs. e.g. look on Parts Express at the Dayton, or Peerless (GBS) low profile drivers.
Also: have you seen the Cornu spiral horn? You could adapt something like this to work with a low profile sub.
Yes, it is. bit low.
Sure, that would however impact the plenum structure.
Hmm, I might have been mistaken there. I do however see a 3dB increase in efficiency.
Not so sure about that. I simmed both, 2x10" (Dayton and Tymphany) vs 24xTymphany, and in 12 Liters total volume, the maxSPL down low is within 1dB (for a closed box). So no, they are not really much better
They are pretty cool, but they need quite a lot of volume as far as I can see.
The tiny Tymphany's need about 0.6 Liters per woofer. I could easily 3D print a sturdy but thin rear cup for them.
Which ones? Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 performance not better and is more expensive (in same volume). MTX FPR10 will go a bit louder, but is much more expensive. The rest is even more expensive. Also all of them have far to high Qts and need much more volume to perform any better.
I thought you were just after a thin box - didn't realise total volume was such an issue.
If being unobtrusive is key:
Mount a flat sub on the ceiling, and paint it to blend in.
Or build IB subs, where all you see is the manifold opening.
Or get an off-the-shelf gaming chair (that has a sub built in).
Or skip the sub: install a tactile transducer on your current chair.
Well, there really is no point in using 3" drivers if you'd need a 100L box is there
Would be cool, but my ceiling is quite old and brittle and I don't want to break it. I guess the sub would make it all come down at the first movie I watch
. It is also quite high up, about 3.5m. Also will be hell to put in the wiring without a major decorating job.No other rooms to act as the other side, except for a garage. I don't think the neighbours would like it. I also don't like to plow though solid brick to make a nice hole in my wall.
I'd not call that unobtrusive
Well, there really is no point in using 3" drivers if you'd need a 100L box is there
Appropriately set up, shallow but large box could be as unobtrusive as paintings hung on the wall.
Examples here:
Optik
A sub could blend in better than these, since a painted cover / grille will not harm LF performance.
Hmm, the first graph is a bit louder / watt than I'd have guessed.
Because "the DC resistance reaches a value of approx. 2.2 ohms for 6 parallel-connected woofers", I think your resistance will be 4.4 ohms, and you need to drop the input down from 2.83V accordingly if you want to see the SPL at 1 watt.
My guess would be: 71dB for a single driver
+3dB per doubling of drivers = about 81dB
+9dB for corner loading = about 90dB
...so the best case scenario = about 87dB at 65Hz (the -3dB point)
Looking for 20Hz is a stretch, I reckon - the recommended eq is "HP filter 32Hz,> = 18dB / oct".
If the first graph is 77dB from (roughly) 2 watts at 20Hz, generating a 100dB 20Hz tone means you'd be putting ~400watts in (well, probably twice that, to overcome power compression), which would be a bit like running a hair drier in a shoe box.
I dunno if 400 watts would be OK in short bursts. I usually do low power builds, so this is an interesting opposite scenario for me
Because "the DC resistance reaches a value of approx. 2.2 ohms for 6 parallel-connected woofers", I think your resistance will be 4.4 ohms, and you need to drop the input down from 2.83V accordingly if you want to see the SPL at 1 watt.
My guess would be: 71dB for a single driver
+3dB per doubling of drivers = about 81dB
+9dB for corner loading = about 90dB
...so the best case scenario = about 87dB at 65Hz (the -3dB point)
Looking for 20Hz is a stretch, I reckon - the recommended eq is "HP filter 32Hz,> = 18dB / oct".
If the first graph is 77dB from (roughly) 2 watts at 20Hz, generating a 100dB 20Hz tone means you'd be putting ~400watts in (well, probably twice that, to overcome power compression), which would be a bit like running a hair drier in a shoe box.
I dunno if 400 watts would be OK in short bursts. I usually do low power builds, so this is an interesting opposite scenario for me
I guess 400W would be okay for a short while. Also don’t forget that the slot lossing also adds efficiency. Hornresp says at 20Hz it is limited by displacement, not amp power, so the 20W per woofer should be fine I guess. Only above 40Hz is it limited by the amp (I modelled a 400W amp).
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