Hi there.
I have been fortunate to lay my hands on a pair of Dynaudio 24W100-08, and I am not sure what to do with them.
They are currently installed in a pair of coupled cavity cabs tuned at 41 Hz.
The low frequency output isnt overwhelming. Its controlled and all that, but as HT subs, they dont cut the cheese. With Xmax at 8mm p-p they fart out at medium volume. Some noise are emerging from the port and I cant tell whether its port chuffing or maybe a deteriorated surround.
So what am I to do with them? Sell them or build some other type of cabinet; ported, sealed, isobaric etc?
Any suggestions?
Cheers,
Nordskov
I have been fortunate to lay my hands on a pair of Dynaudio 24W100-08, and I am not sure what to do with them.
They are currently installed in a pair of coupled cavity cabs tuned at 41 Hz.
The low frequency output isnt overwhelming. Its controlled and all that, but as HT subs, they dont cut the cheese. With Xmax at 8mm p-p they fart out at medium volume. Some noise are emerging from the port and I cant tell whether its port chuffing or maybe a deteriorated surround.
So what am I to do with them? Sell them or build some other type of cabinet; ported, sealed, isobaric etc?
Any suggestions?
Cheers,
Nordskov
Hi Ron.
My living room is 34m2 and the subs simply isnt loud enough.
I need subs primary for HT use.
As soon as Im done with restauration of the floor in my living room, I start building a pair of Finalists. They dig low enough for music listening without a sub.
Will I gain anything using them in ported cabs?
My living room is 34m2 and the subs simply isnt loud enough.
I need subs primary for HT use.
As soon as Im done with restauration of the floor in my living room, I start building a pair of Finalists. They dig low enough for music listening without a sub.
Will I gain anything using them in ported cabs?
You have 8" drivers with 7mm xmax in your mains and you are asking whether to use 8" drivers with 4.5mm xmax as subs?
using these:
http://www.gattiweb.com/images/dynaudio/24w100_data2.pdf
I simulated a few options and these won't go any lower or louder than your mains. You might be able to use them instead of the RS225 in the project you have in mind. Not a perfect drop in, though, a bit more sensitive than the RS.
It might be much better to start another project using those 24w100 in a 2 way crossed at ~2kHz to a nice vintage or modern tweeter. Use them as rears?
using these:
http://www.gattiweb.com/images/dynaudio/24w100_data2.pdf
I simulated a few options and these won't go any lower or louder than your mains. You might be able to use them instead of the RS225 in the project you have in mind. Not a perfect drop in, though, a bit more sensitive than the RS.
It might be much better to start another project using those 24w100 in a 2 way crossed at ~2kHz to a nice vintage or modern tweeter. Use them as rears?
Hi again.
Yeah I know it sounds funny
Actually they are 9" speakers, not that that changes anything.
Do you know The Finalists? You say they could substitute the RS225's. Unfortunately I already have the parts for the build. But then I could use the RS225 for another project. What kind of modifications would it take to make the swap? Cross-over, cabinet.
Yeah I know it sounds funny
Actually they are 9" speakers, not that that changes anything.
Do you know The Finalists? You say they could substitute the RS225's. Unfortunately I already have the parts for the build. But then I could use the RS225 for another project. What kind of modifications would it take to make the swap? Cross-over, cabinet.
Hi again.
Yeah I know it sounds funny
Actually they are 9" speakers, not that that changes anything.
Do you know The Finalists? You say they could substitute the RS225's. Unfortunately I already have the parts for the build. But then I could use the RS225 for another project. What kind of modifications would it take to make the swap? Cross-over, cabinet.
Cabinet would be the same ~40L tuned to ~33-35Hz, crossover would take some work. As I said, not a perfect drop in.
They are 17.3cm radiating diameter, only 0.3cm more than a typical old school 8" driver.
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Ahh, that seem to be a lot of work. I'll stick with the original design.
The model number 24W100 indicates a 10" driver, its adverticed as a 9" driver and the specs say 8". Soon I'll find out it's a toaster. LOL
So you think it will blend ok with a tweeter without a mid, not beaming like hell?
My son needs a new set of speakers and he has the tweeters from a pair of old Dali 400.
But it needs to be book shelf speakers.
Is that doable?
The model number 24W100 indicates a 10" driver, its adverticed as a 9" driver and the specs say 8". Soon I'll find out it's a toaster. LOL
So you think it will blend ok with a tweeter without a mid, not beaming like hell?
My son needs a new set of speakers and he has the tweeters from a pair of old Dali 400.
But it needs to be book shelf speakers.
Is that doable?
Hi GM.
Thanks for chiming in.
The conclusion must be, that this woofer really isn't good for anything.
The Xmax is too small for sub or even woofer in a 2-way.
The 8"-9" is too big for mid duty in a 3-way system. It will beam heavily long before the tweeter takes over.
What was the intended use back then?
I don't get the overdimensioned voice coil, designed to take a lot of heat, but cribbled by a short Xmas.
Thanks for chiming in.
The conclusion must be, that this woofer really isn't good for anything.
The Xmax is too small for sub or even woofer in a 2-way.
The 8"-9" is too big for mid duty in a 3-way system. It will beam heavily long before the tweeter takes over.
What was the intended use back then?
I don't get the overdimensioned voice coil, designed to take a lot of heat, but cribbled by a short Xmas.
in 1990, when this woofer was "current" the xmax was typical for an 8" woofer.
The large coil gives much less power compression and they claim a more even drive force on the cone. The woofer was used in 2 and 3 way designs in very respectable speakers. An 8" isn't beaming much at 2kHz... It was never designed as a 'midrange' for a 3 way? It's a solid woofer even today.
It seems to me you had a wrong impression (this was never a subwoofer) and are now blaming the woofer.
The large coil gives much less power compression and they claim a more even drive force on the cone. The woofer was used in 2 and 3 way designs in very respectable speakers. An 8" isn't beaming much at 2kHz... It was never designed as a 'midrange' for a 3 way? It's a solid woofer even today.
It seems to me you had a wrong impression (this was never a subwoofer) and are now blaming the woofer.
LOL.
Naah, I guess Im just spoiled by the long throw of modern speakers
And I had higher expectations from the choice made by the previous owner (my uncle) to use them in a pair of coupled cavity subs.
But as said, my son needs a pair of mains. But at the age of 17 and being a bass head, Im not shure if the excursion is large enough.
And he cannot find room for more than book shelf speakers. Im not an expert on WinISD, but it seems like these drivers need large cabs.
Naah, I guess Im just spoiled by the long throw of modern speakers
And I had higher expectations from the choice made by the previous owner (my uncle) to use them in a pair of coupled cavity subs.
But as said, my son needs a pair of mains. But at the age of 17 and being a bass head, Im not shure if the excursion is large enough.
And he cannot find room for more than book shelf speakers. Im not an expert on WinISD, but it seems like these drivers need large cabs.
40L tuned to 35 - roughly a 7.6cm dia x 22.4cm long port
parameters from the pdf i linked earlier in this thread
Attachments
I hear you, I was using wrong data in WinISD that suggested a large cabinet.
Do you have cone diameter = 173mm?
You are right, it behaves well in a small cabinet.
40L is too big for my sons room, but I need a center and rear speakers for my HT.
These can serve as a WMTW center with a Vifa NE149W-04 and a SEAS 27TBFC.
Curt Campbell have designed a center for the Finalists. I guess I can reuse the MT section, but the WM part will most likely need an adjustment.
Especially because of the difference in sensitivity.
I think I will contact him.
Do you have cone diameter = 173mm?
You are right, it behaves well in a small cabinet.
40L is too big for my sons room, but I need a center and rear speakers for my HT.
These can serve as a WMTW center with a Vifa NE149W-04 and a SEAS 27TBFC.
Curt Campbell have designed a center for the Finalists. I guess I can reuse the MT section, but the WM part will most likely need an adjustment.
Especially because of the difference in sensitivity.
I think I will contact him.
Recent prices for a pair on ebay with newish surrounds:
$180/pr +$15 shipping
$260/pr +$38 shipping
Any 18" woofer I know of would go to at least 200Hz no problem. Crossing the Dynaudios at 150-200 would be better than 65Hz, but young folk and car audio nuts always seem to think they need a hundred bands to make bass...
It depends on whether stereo or mono "subs" are used and where they are placed relative to the mains. My opinion, subs should be built into or at the same location as the mains. Then you can cross where you need to to minimize excursion demands on the other drivers. For the 24W100 if intended to be used very high power (which an 18" subwoofer implies) this should be >100Hz, IMO.
Some people (especially young people and car audio nuts - not to imply anything about the other posters in this thread) mistakenly think that to get a 'hi-performance' system, (for example) you need a lot of bandpass filters, an 18" should be used from 20-40, then a 12" from 40-80, then an 8" from 80-160 and a 6" from 160-???, etc....ad nauseum.
Some people (especially young people and car audio nuts - not to imply anything about the other posters in this thread) mistakenly think that to get a 'hi-performance' system, (for example) you need a lot of bandpass filters, an 18" should be used from 20-40, then a 12" from 40-80, then an 8" from 80-160 and a 6" from 160-???, etc....ad nauseum.
Ah now I get you. And I agree - to some extend.
I dont have much live experience in cross-overs optimisation and multi pass band speakers, but I have read a great deal on both hifi and live sound. Im a musician.
In live sound subs should be clustered or placed with more than a wavelength between.
Its my impression that in your livingroom you take advantage of dual subs to even room mode by specific placement. That opportunity is lost by incorporating them in your mains. But then you have to cross low.
Its all about trade offs.
I seek good performing full range mains - and a sub inforced HT, where function trumph quality
I dont have the funds to be a hifi enthusiast
BTW I never said anything about a 18" sub. Right now I have a PA sub with a Kappalite 3012LF tuned at 45Hz. Not optimal, but it gets the job done.
I dont have much live experience in cross-overs optimisation and multi pass band speakers, but I have read a great deal on both hifi and live sound. Im a musician.
In live sound subs should be clustered or placed with more than a wavelength between.
Its my impression that in your livingroom you take advantage of dual subs to even room mode by specific placement. That opportunity is lost by incorporating them in your mains. But then you have to cross low.
Its all about trade offs.
I seek good performing full range mains - and a sub inforced HT, where function trumph quality
I dont have the funds to be a hifi enthusiast
BTW I never said anything about a 18" sub. Right now I have a PA sub with a Kappalite 3012LF tuned at 45Hz. Not optimal, but it gets the job done.
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