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25Hz for !! Dayton 299-114 1301469W
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Old 19th December 2016, 06:31 PM   #11
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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cauz I bought a big box of them :-/

This was really an experiment to see if one pair would measure ok and then double or triple that size.
And very surprised that one Iso pair can handle normal listen levels without speaker pops, and/or damage.
Some other answers to previous page:
Connections wired 4 & 4 for an 8ohm load.
The 4mm xmax...they seem to have more than that, the back of the magnet is bumped out.

Pretty much a success although:
Are they tunned to low?
[25hz now]
Poor group delay, maybe someone can chime in on that a bit more.

Also any thought what was the original intent? What were these design for?
I'm sure it was a plan at one time for a small, low cost sub box, bandpass perhaps?

edit
Ok ran a quick sim and could cut the existing box down to .8cf and keep the same 18" port, tuning would rise to 29hz.

Last edited by ODougbo; 19th December 2016 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 19th December 2016, 10:07 PM   #12
j.michael droke is offline j.michael droke  United States
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25Hz for !! Dayton 299-114 1301469W
Quote:
Originally Posted by ODougbo View Post
...Pretty much a success although:
Are they tunned to low? 25hz now...

Poor group delay, maybe someone can chime in on that a bit more....edit...Ok ran a quick sim and could cut the existing box down to .8cf and keep the same 18" port, tuning would rise to 29hz.
Hi there O: Lower group delay is sensitive to the location of the big peak on the HR group delay curve. I have found, lowering the frequency of the peak by adjusting input parameters will push the knee at the bottom of the group delay curve to the left (lower hz), where you may be able to attain 10ms group delay for the lowest desired frequency. However, doing this tends to cause a decrease in low corner of the frequency curve, which I find not desirable. I have found that 17 to 18 hz tuning produces this effect in simm's ...regards, Michael
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Old 20th December 2016, 02:49 AM   #13
Ron E is offline Ron E  United States
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Try modeling 2 in series (not isobaric) sharing a 70 liter box tuned to 30Hz. Now that is actually fairly impressive...
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Old 20th December 2016, 03:18 PM   #14
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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Thank you Michael D.

Ron E. I know what will will happen if I use two in a box; it won't be long before I'll end up bolting 2 more woofers on top of them. Which I can remember doing with 8's, 10's and 12's.
What about 3 iso's in a 60l cabinet tuned to 29hz, the modeling is similar but slightly better.
Could wire up 3 series then parallel and end up with 6 ohm to the amp.

Doug

Last edited by ODougbo; 20th December 2016 at 03:34 PM.
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Old 27th December 2016, 10:50 PM   #15
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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Another Version:

The port is slightly shorter and vent is 9/16" vs. 1/2" (first mdf speaker)
Wood - light weight maple ply with U brace at the woofer(s) center.
Red line is the response with mic in center of room - no eq except the high pass filter.

It's a little clearer sounding, and woks well with the new placement/location.
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Old 30th December 2016, 09:35 PM   #16
Taterworks is offline Taterworks  United States
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Technically, that driver is not a Dayton Audio product. It is a surplus buyout product which Parts Express managed to purchase at a low price. There is a similar driver from Dayton Audio, which is the Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" subwoofer.
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Old 2nd January 2017, 07:27 PM   #17
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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Thanks Rory, haven't had time to to model it, but the devil's hands have been busy the last few days.
Made a second light weight plywood box, and and added it to the front three.
L (sub) C (sub) R
At first two subs didn't work as well as I thought it would, but was able to move the high pass filter lower a bit and sounds more like what I had in mind.

I'll check out the recommendation soon.

Pic: Four (4) 3/4" spacer rings and 3/4" front baffle. Rabbit cut(s) 3/8" front and back, which ends up back at 3" I.D. Add a extra 1/8" for the gaskets (cork, ordered from ebay)

Thanks!
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Old 4th January 2017, 01:10 PM   #18
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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The twin pair of ply boxes (above) works nicely, although stacked them together vs. 12' apart. There was some kind of cancellation when they in different locations.

I still have 6 speakers not being used, thinking about a 2.5 - 3.0 cubic foot cube or similar sized tower.
[2 speakers each circle]

The question is what would be better, a "Y" or a Vertical Straight Line configuration?

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 7th January 2017, 10:46 PM   #19
ODougbo is offline ODougbo  United States
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Went with the speaker wheel. Made a 4 layer wood, 3 hole yoke, same ploy as before.
The 20" x 24" baffle is face down, all I need is a 5 sided 2.75 cubic foot box and some gaskets.
Thinking a removable front would be the best bet, could always cover it with formica to gussy it up (someday).

I really like the two iso boxes (stacked) that I'm using now, really nice solid bass, hopefully this will top them.
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Last edited by ODougbo; 7th January 2017 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 9th January 2017, 10:41 PM   #20
Greebster is offline Greebster  United States
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Inktoresting design.

Not that impressed with the driver tho, sorry

Better driver Peerless by Tymphany SDS-160F25PR01-08 6-1/2" Paper Cone Woofer Speaker

Higher spl, greater Xmax, lower mass, and cheaper too boot.

This is what I use in my MLTL (hate that nomenclature)


Be careful with ISO, the inner driver will hit Xmax before the outer driver. If pushed hard will hit Xmech doing damage before you realize it, well, that is if the extreme distortion level doesn't get your attention first.

edit
This driver use to be listed as a subwoofer on Tymphany's website. I never understood why as it is nothing more than a decent midbass IMO.

Last edited by Greebster; 9th January 2017 at 10:44 PM.
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