Hi people,
I want to build a "portable" audio speaker. I want to use it in the garden or outside while swimming or exercise.
The total volume of the speaker enclosure is around 13 liters, there also come 2 midranges and 2 tweeters inside.
Now i have the problem that i have a small space to build in the subwoofer tangband w5-1138smf . Now is saw this enclosure on this website (forum).
7.36 liter / port 11.4 cm2 by 22.86 cm long
I think its nearly the same space as i have left to build the subwoofer in. So its good and i thinking of trying it but i also want to try to make a enclosure with 2 passive radiators( i tought maybe i can reduce the enclosure to 6 liters).
Now i don't have a computer and can't use a program to calculate de speaker enclosure, so i want to ask if someone will do it for me.
The 6 liter enclosure i want to build is with 2 passive radiators .
Peerless 830880 Peerless 5.25" Mini Passive Radiator and the link: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...s-830880-peerless-5.25-mini-passive-radiator/
So my goal is to make a 6 liter enclosure with 2 passive radiators that is the same as the 7.36L enclosure (bass, sound quality and volume)
The battery and amp are also in te enclosure so its difficult to measure the exact volume( + volume speaker en passive radiators).
Do somebody have some tips for me or a helping hand i really appreciate it. Tanks a lot!!
Sorry for the bad inglish
I want to build a "portable" audio speaker. I want to use it in the garden or outside while swimming or exercise.
The total volume of the speaker enclosure is around 13 liters, there also come 2 midranges and 2 tweeters inside.
Now i have the problem that i have a small space to build in the subwoofer tangband w5-1138smf . Now is saw this enclosure on this website (forum).
7.36 liter / port 11.4 cm2 by 22.86 cm long
I think its nearly the same space as i have left to build the subwoofer in. So its good and i thinking of trying it but i also want to try to make a enclosure with 2 passive radiators( i tought maybe i can reduce the enclosure to 6 liters).
Now i don't have a computer and can't use a program to calculate de speaker enclosure, so i want to ask if someone will do it for me.
The 6 liter enclosure i want to build is with 2 passive radiators .
Peerless 830880 Peerless 5.25" Mini Passive Radiator and the link: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...s-830880-peerless-5.25-mini-passive-radiator/
So my goal is to make a 6 liter enclosure with 2 passive radiators that is the same as the 7.36L enclosure (bass, sound quality and volume)
The battery and amp are also in te enclosure so its difficult to measure the exact volume( + volume speaker en passive radiators).
Do somebody have some tips for me or a helping hand i really appreciate it. Tanks a lot!!
Sorry for the bad inglish
My own meddling with WinISD, regarding the W5-1138SMF require 12 litres, plus 2.5-3.0 litres for the ports and driver basket. That's the internals. Build it in 18mm ply or MDF and total box volume (external) approaches 25L.
The enclosure you mention seems aimed at nearfield - computer speaker setup. Where the sub would never be driven to its limits. The port is quite undersized and likely to "chuff" badly.
If you want small but reasonably tuneful and bassy, try the Paul Carmody Sprite. Or Sprite plus tweeters... Though you'd need to roll your own crossovers.
The enclosure you mention seems aimed at nearfield - computer speaker setup. Where the sub would never be driven to its limits. The port is quite undersized and likely to "chuff" badly.
If you want small but reasonably tuneful and bassy, try the Paul Carmody Sprite. Or Sprite plus tweeters... Though you'd need to roll your own crossovers.
Hi Scarface1,
Post #1: "...W5-1138SMF...Vrc=6L...2ea. Peerless 830880 5.25" passive radiators..."
That should work, according to a quick simulation in Hornresp you need to add about 21gm to the cone of ea. passive radiator for tuning. Make sure that you really get 6L free internal volume. If the internal volume gets any smaller you will have to add more weight to the cones of the passive radiator.
I recommend building an experimental box to see if you like the sound.
Regards,
Post #1: "...W5-1138SMF...Vrc=6L...2ea. Peerless 830880 5.25" passive radiators..."
That should work, according to a quick simulation in Hornresp you need to add about 21gm to the cone of ea. passive radiator for tuning. Make sure that you really get 6L free internal volume. If the internal volume gets any smaller you will have to add more weight to the cones of the passive radiator.
I recommend building an experimental box to see if you like the sound.
Regards,
Tanks alot, maybe i gonna try it. I think i go for the boxel enclosure from paul carmody. It is easyer to build. If i finished it and i have some money i build the 6 liter with 2 passive radiators like you said so i can compare them and make my choice. Tanks alot you helped me verywel
Greetings
Greetings
Note, if you're really gonna go full experimental....the American nickel (coin) is a calibrated Five grams exactly....I suppose with a dose of superglue, one grams worth perhaps, Four nickels radially 'attached' would give you close to 21 grams.
-----------------------------------------------------------------Rick............
I have made a subwoofer with this driver and I made a port that was 0.75" wide by 5" high and the same length you mention however, I had serious chuffing noise - extreme whistling.
I have moved to a 1" wide port that was a little wider, I'm hoping that this solves it - I will update with that tonight when I have made my second prototype cabinet.
The problems I ran in to making a very small subwoofer wioth this driver is that it seems to be a false space economy using such a small driver as the smaller the driver = smaller cabinet resulting in bigger port needed to tune lower. If I could do it again I would go for a bigger driver as this seems to be a better balance between volume and performance.
I haven't used passive radiators before but good luck!!!
I have moved to a 1" wide port that was a little wider, I'm hoping that this solves it - I will update with that tonight when I have made my second prototype cabinet.
The problems I ran in to making a very small subwoofer wioth this driver is that it seems to be a false space economy using such a small driver as the smaller the driver = smaller cabinet resulting in bigger port needed to tune lower. If I could do it again I would go for a bigger driver as this seems to be a better balance between volume and performance.
I haven't used passive radiators before but good luck!!!
Tanks for the answers. I have search on the internet and found this model. It was made by Paul carmody and if i'm correct he have take it to a speaker design show where he have got good reactions.
Voxel - a mini-sub+ - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
If you do exactly what he said, also buy 2 ports and gleu them togetter it will work perfectly.
Voxel - a mini-sub+ - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
If you do exactly what he said, also buy 2 ports and gleu them togetter it will work perfectly.
Thanks mate, i have looked for it but i thinks i go for the voxel sub. 28 december my speaker arrived so i can finally start to build something.
I want to build in 2 midrange speakers, but with minimum space. My subwoofer plays 150hz and below. So i want a midrange that will play 150 and up. Now i have seen this speaker.
R 10 S - 4 Ohm
The sound is perfect to me but i want it to build in a 0.5 liter enclosure but i'm afraid he don't reach the 150 hz.
Have anyone suggestions. 1 liter enclosure is the maximum. Should i use a bass port
I want to build in 2 midrange speakers, but with minimum space. My subwoofer plays 150hz and below. So i want a midrange that will play 150 and up. Now i have seen this speaker.
R 10 S - 4 Ohm
The sound is perfect to me but i want it to build in a 0.5 liter enclosure but i'm afraid he don't reach the 150 hz.
Have anyone suggestions. 1 liter enclosure is the maximum. Should i use a bass port
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