I currently have a single 10 in a sealed .60 cu ft cab powered by a jl audio 500/1 . Sounds great ,however Im running out of sub when I crank it . The sub makes a klacking sound that I assume is the sub hitting xmax
After some research I heard about winisd which I used to calculate a ported cab. My question is this ,winisd is telling me I need a cab size of 1.36 and. port of 4in dia and 30 something in long . How can I have a port 30 + in long?
Also considering just adding a second 10 instead .
This is in a 2012 370 z
Basically Ive built some sealed and ported enclosures but Im far from an expert . Im just looking for a little more output from this 10 .The programs Im using are obviously over my head . So if someone would be kind enough to suggest cab size and port Id be extreemly thankfull or would 2 sealed be a better solution (Id like to keep the weight down)
After some research I heard about winisd which I used to calculate a ported cab. My question is this ,winisd is telling me I need a cab size of 1.36 and. port of 4in dia and 30 something in long . How can I have a port 30 + in long?
Also considering just adding a second 10 instead .
This is in a 2012 370 z
Basically Ive built some sealed and ported enclosures but Im far from an expert . Im just looking for a little more output from this 10 .The programs Im using are obviously over my head . So if someone would be kind enough to suggest cab size and port Id be extreemly thankfull or would 2 sealed be a better solution (Id like to keep the weight down)
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Thanks for the replies . Im looking more for quality than quantity . It currently sounds excelent however the sub cant keep up withe the rest of the sustem .Which is a set of dls r6 's powered by a harmon kardon TC 300 .
According to the Infinity spec sheet the ported box is quite a bit louder than the sealed box but would the ported box sound as good ?
Infinty says 1 cu ft ported but winisd recommends 1.36 . Can someonewith more experience plesse run the numbers for me and give me some idea of the best box/ port
According to the Infinity spec sheet the ported box is quite a bit louder than the sealed box but would the ported box sound as good ?
Infinty says 1 cu ft ported but winisd recommends 1.36 . Can someonewith more experience plesse run the numbers for me and give me some idea of the best box/ port
After some consideration Id prefer to have just 1 10 due to limited space . Can someone recommend a better 10 than the infinity .Something I can push a little harder that would sound as good or better .
edit.
I just checked and the xmax of the infinity is .56 and the xmax of the jl audio 10w3v3 is .45? Maybe theres something wrong with the cab I built? I triple checked the size and its correct and I resealed everything in case I had a leak so ??What could be wrong
edit.
I just checked and the xmax of the infinity is .56 and the xmax of the jl audio 10w3v3 is .45? Maybe theres something wrong with the cab I built? I triple checked the size and its correct and I resealed everything in case I had a leak so ??What could be wrong
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Infinity kappa perfect 10 is very good (long Xmax, low fs, medium Qts, small Vas = small box), but efficiency is not high. Higher efficiency woofer (with the same low end) need bigger box. Better 10" will cost you an arm and leg ... and bigger box. Good 12" (or 15") is what you need ... and bigger box. Or second small box with Infinity 10" - which makes double volume than the present one.
Bottom line - if you want more SPL, you must accept bigger box volume.
Bottom line - if you want more SPL, you must accept bigger box volume.
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One Infinity 120.9w has about 3dB higher sensitivity than one Kappa Perfect 10, but needs a bigger box (1ft^3).
Two boxes with Kappa Perfect 10 will have 3dB higher sensitivity than one 120.9w and the total volume will be slightly bigger at 2x0.6=1.2ft^3. Seems that two boxes with Kappa Perfect 10 is the right deal, if you can afford 1.2ft^3 spare volume.
All I know is that I have the misfortune to now live in a large 'boom car' community and the word on the street is that there's no major differences between the bunch, especially WRT how much abuse they can take.
WRT MTX, yes, I seem to recall them being just another cheap brand a long time ago and they may still have a cheap line, but their top line is pretty impressive and is loaded into at least one of DSL's most impressive performing THs and seems like there was another one [both minus any visible labels], but it's been awhile since I was up there and I've read that over time some drivers have been superseded.
GM
WRT MTX, yes, I seem to recall them being just another cheap brand a long time ago and they may still have a cheap line, but their top line is pretty impressive and is loaded into at least one of DSL's most impressive performing THs and seems like there was another one [both minus any visible labels], but it's been awhile since I was up there and I've read that over time some drivers have been superseded.
GM
The size of the woofer(s) won't matter as far as blending with the front speakers.
Pretty much the vast majority of subs can hit at least 100 Hz.
Even an 18 in a sealed box can get to 100.
The issue then becomes, "can my front speakers get me to 100 HZ?", and at similar clarity and volume level at crossover point. Too much bass is too much bass...
Ever heard 1000 watts going through two high excursion 10's woofers, and the front speakers running off deck power? Yeah, that is actually quite typical for crappy systems around here. All boom, and no SQ. At all...
If you have a nice amp on decent quality and decent sized front speakers, that could be why the single sub is not enough for you.
I have seen award winning SQ systems with just 6.5" components in the front, and a single 12" sub. I have a 12" old JL sub from the 90's that I got for free and refurbished which I am using in a decent sized sealed cabinet, and I love it. Sounds phenomenal in the house with only 75 watts! I can only imagine it in a car with recommended power.
I also got a pair of OLD kicker 12" subs from the swapmeet for 20 bucks (they looked brand new). They had no clue what they had. I built one in a very solid enclosure, and it sounds incredible in the house as well. I could imagine it would be very good in a car with a nice set of components and a nice amp. The single 12" kicker needs 1.75 ft3 for car which is rather (box program recommends 10ft3 for home use to get to 20 HZ!!!!! You are getting a boost from the transfer function of car). The JL needs a little less, but is still decent sized as well. But that is what you need to get good bass, as mentioned above... The kickers I have are at least 90db efficiency or more as well. Not huge motor'd subs, but efficient and built well. I don't need a ton of power... Just a bigger box. Trust me, give up the space and you will be happy. I think a single 12" might be your best compromise. OR two tens that need similar space requirements as a decent 12"... But I like the sound of a 12" that has a lower FS and is reasonably efficient for a SEALED woofer. Harder to come by these days. I think the Kicker was built back before the "tiny sealed enclosure, high X-max and TONS of cheap digital power" days. I love the older woofers that were a little more efficient! But I have space...
I know what you mean about a single ten. I had a single ten and 6.5" components in a car for a while, and the bass was clean and there, but not that great. Good enough.
I do think two sealed 10's is one of my favorite sounding set ups for both loud and clean bass. Still can be tight, but deep as well. Best of both worlds.
I am not interested in stuffing a sub in a car right now, so have not tested either one of my current subs with a four channel amp and components. I usually have decent components running off amp power, so good bass is required.
Curious to see what you go with. There is no right answer. You have options.
I am sending a thumbs up to single 12" idea, or dual tens if you can fit it...
Pretty much the vast majority of subs can hit at least 100 Hz.
Even an 18 in a sealed box can get to 100.
The issue then becomes, "can my front speakers get me to 100 HZ?", and at similar clarity and volume level at crossover point. Too much bass is too much bass...
Ever heard 1000 watts going through two high excursion 10's woofers, and the front speakers running off deck power? Yeah, that is actually quite typical for crappy systems around here. All boom, and no SQ. At all...
If you have a nice amp on decent quality and decent sized front speakers, that could be why the single sub is not enough for you.
I have seen award winning SQ systems with just 6.5" components in the front, and a single 12" sub. I have a 12" old JL sub from the 90's that I got for free and refurbished which I am using in a decent sized sealed cabinet, and I love it. Sounds phenomenal in the house with only 75 watts! I can only imagine it in a car with recommended power.
I also got a pair of OLD kicker 12" subs from the swapmeet for 20 bucks (they looked brand new). They had no clue what they had. I built one in a very solid enclosure, and it sounds incredible in the house as well. I could imagine it would be very good in a car with a nice set of components and a nice amp. The single 12" kicker needs 1.75 ft3 for car which is rather (box program recommends 10ft3 for home use to get to 20 HZ!!!!! You are getting a boost from the transfer function of car). The JL needs a little less, but is still decent sized as well. But that is what you need to get good bass, as mentioned above... The kickers I have are at least 90db efficiency or more as well. Not huge motor'd subs, but efficient and built well. I don't need a ton of power... Just a bigger box. Trust me, give up the space and you will be happy. I think a single 12" might be your best compromise. OR two tens that need similar space requirements as a decent 12"... But I like the sound of a 12" that has a lower FS and is reasonably efficient for a SEALED woofer. Harder to come by these days. I think the Kicker was built back before the "tiny sealed enclosure, high X-max and TONS of cheap digital power" days. I love the older woofers that were a little more efficient! But I have space...I know what you mean about a single ten. I had a single ten and 6.5" components in a car for a while, and the bass was clean and there, but not that great. Good enough.
I do think two sealed 10's is one of my favorite sounding set ups for both loud and clean bass. Still can be tight, but deep as well. Best of both worlds.
I am not interested in stuffing a sub in a car right now, so have not tested either one of my current subs with a four channel amp and components. I usually have decent components running off amp power, so good bass is required.
Curious to see what you go with. There is no right answer. You have options.
I am sending a thumbs up to single 12" idea, or dual tens if you can fit it...
It seems I only have 19in width available for the cab so I may have to go with the 12in sub . If I build a second cab it will occupy a different location and if I understand correctly the subs should be on the same plane . Still deciding .May try a ported cab just for kicks
I had an 88 CRX that had 2 8in JL audio subs in 1.5cuft ported cabs that sounded like 2 12's .
I had an 88 CRX that had 2 8in JL audio subs in 1.5cuft ported cabs that sounded like 2 12's .
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