This is more of a narrative than me offering plan designs. I doubt the design is of much practical use because the drivers were pretty awful and I don't advise anybody try and get them. Second, I'm not (currently) aware of any other drivers that have a good looking response in this cabinet, but there is a possibility it would work well with some similarly cheap, low quality 15s with enough xmax to move air.
About a year ago my friend purchased a pair of Pyle PADH1569 speakers.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PADH1569-Speaker-Construction-Reinforced/dp/B0013CG6RK/
Those who know what to expect of Pyle would not be surprised in the least to hear that they sounded utterly awful even to undiscerning guests. He later upgraded to some Seismic Audio speakers which, while still considered cheap garbage by some, actually sound pretty good to most people.
The Pyle cabs were later disposed of by throwing them off a 3rd story balcony, but I kept the 15" woofers. They had no markings, but I looked through Pyle's speaker offerings and guessed they were probably their PPA15 speaker.
Pyle PPA15 15" PA Speaker
Huge VAS, low FS, High QTS and a weak magnet meant they really have no business being made into a prosound subwoofer, but I have time and lots of wood scrap. They work well in open baffle configuration, but I don't have the space for that nor the need. I cooked up a design with hornresp that made a few compromises. I settled on around 350l internal because any smaller and the low output isn't worth the time and any bigger would make for a huge cabinet. The low xmax and high qts meant the low cutoff would have to be fairly high.
I took the hornresp schematic and started drafting designs in solidworks. I went through 4 revisions before I got to something I was happy with. It was built entirely out of scavenged scrap wood. I haven't put the finishing touches on it yet, but the construction is done. My initial impression is very good. I never anticipated getting so much bass out of those junk drivers. It has very little low bass below 45hz or so, but the punch/kick up higher is surprisingly strong.
About a year ago my friend purchased a pair of Pyle PADH1569 speakers.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PADH1569-Speaker-Construction-Reinforced/dp/B0013CG6RK/
Those who know what to expect of Pyle would not be surprised in the least to hear that they sounded utterly awful even to undiscerning guests. He later upgraded to some Seismic Audio speakers which, while still considered cheap garbage by some, actually sound pretty good to most people.
The Pyle cabs were later disposed of by throwing them off a 3rd story balcony, but I kept the 15" woofers. They had no markings, but I looked through Pyle's speaker offerings and guessed they were probably their PPA15 speaker.
Pyle PPA15 15" PA Speaker
Huge VAS, low FS, High QTS and a weak magnet meant they really have no business being made into a prosound subwoofer, but I have time and lots of wood scrap. They work well in open baffle configuration, but I don't have the space for that nor the need. I cooked up a design with hornresp that made a few compromises. I settled on around 350l internal because any smaller and the low output isn't worth the time and any bigger would make for a huge cabinet. The low xmax and high qts meant the low cutoff would have to be fairly high.
I took the hornresp schematic and started drafting designs in solidworks. I went through 4 revisions before I got to something I was happy with. It was built entirely out of scavenged scrap wood. I haven't put the finishing touches on it yet, but the construction is done. My initial impression is very good. I never anticipated getting so much bass out of those junk drivers. It has very little low bass below 45hz or so, but the punch/kick up higher is surprisingly strong.
I thought 4th order BPs needed a Helmholtz resonator, which mandates a chamber.
Edit - I guess the way to check would be to halve all the areas and number of drivers and see what the response does.
Anyway, looks like you've got a serious kickbin there. Do you have mid/tops that'll keep up with that thing?
Chris
Edit - I guess the way to check would be to halve all the areas and number of drivers and see what the response does.
Anyway, looks like you've got a serious kickbin there. Do you have mid/tops that'll keep up with that thing?
Chris
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No, just a front 'vent' of some sort to create an acoustic low pass AFAIK, which in this case is a TL. On the old basslist we discussed these a bit after I posted some experiments I'd done much earlier morphing a BP4's front chamber to a TL, calling it a Sonic Cannon IIRC for lack of a better way to describe it.
For sure, it worked great with a cheap RadioShack 8" mobile audio woofer. I used an 8" dia. concrete tube former initially and later a longer 12", which gave much more usable BW.
With some 'vent' damping and laying on the floor wedged between a sofa and wall in a then neighbor's 'family' room to add LF 'fill' for DSOTM and a couple of other recently released LPs with some actual bass, it was pretty impressive for the times even with no XO or time delay consideration other than setting the polarity that gave the best overall response.
I didn't compare either to a same alignment BP4, so not sure if there's any [enough?] performance benefit to offset the larger net bulk, but I much prefer [ML]TL over reflex/BR overall, so for me it's worth it.
GM
For sure, it worked great with a cheap RadioShack 8" mobile audio woofer. I used an 8" dia. concrete tube former initially and later a longer 12", which gave much more usable BW.
With some 'vent' damping and laying on the floor wedged between a sofa and wall in a then neighbor's 'family' room to add LF 'fill' for DSOTM and a couple of other recently released LPs with some actual bass, it was pretty impressive for the times even with no XO or time delay consideration other than setting the polarity that gave the best overall response.
I didn't compare either to a same alignment BP4, so not sure if there's any [enough?] performance benefit to offset the larger net bulk, but I much prefer [ML]TL over reflex/BR overall, so for me it's worth it.
GM
I don't own a measurement mic to get a curve. On that note, anybody have good suggestions for an affordable measurement setup? The Dayton iMM-6 is appealing because of how inexpensive it is.
Anyways for the sake of completeness, here's some pictures of the finished cab in its natural habitat.
It's kindof in the pile of equipment. We have JBL JRX115 or Mackie SRM450 to go with it. Honestly I'm going to try to see if I can sell it on to somebody for about the material cost. It was a project of curiosity and it's entirely redundant with all the SS15s around. I will say that it has a very sweet kick sound that I wish the SS15s could do.
cool build!!
i never seem to get the painting and finish work on my projects done...
i've had good results using Pyle brand speakers as replacements in other applications. i think the brand is over looked and dismissed on price point (something that cheap can't be good!!)
not saying there isn't better out there but at the prices some of there drivers can be had for you'd be hard pressed to find better without paying more.
what would you guesstimate your build cost at?
i never seem to get the painting and finish work on my projects done...
i've had good results using Pyle brand speakers as replacements in other applications. i think the brand is over looked and dismissed on price point (something that cheap can't be good!!)
not saying there isn't better out there but at the prices some of there drivers can be had for you'd be hard pressed to find better without paying more.
what would you guesstimate your build cost at?
Well for me the only thing I actually went out and purchased was a tube of PL, so 7$ plus like 12 hours of labor building, 5 hours of fiddling with models, and a trip to get a scratch on my cornea examined at the hospital (I was wearing safety glasses, annoyingly). Everything else was stuff I had around or scavenged, which was both satisfying to make something out of and part of the motivation for the project.
But you could purchase the two drivers for 50 each. Hardware like handles, corner protectors, and the speakon dish and connectors would run you 15-20. I used that cheap, crappy plywood so you could probably spend less than 35 on all the wood. Probably the equivalent of $15-20 of duratex. The bolts and t nuts for the drivers and front panel would run about 15 or so.
But you could purchase the two drivers for 50 each. Hardware like handles, corner protectors, and the speakon dish and connectors would run you 15-20. I used that cheap, crappy plywood so you could probably spend less than 35 on all the wood. Probably the equivalent of $15-20 of duratex. The bolts and t nuts for the drivers and front panel would run about 15 or so.
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