RCF L18S800 cloth surround not doped after repair?

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One quick questions not related to the subject we have been talking about.
I don't know am i crazy or what but it seems to me there is a very noticable difference in low end extension, power output and precision of my bass bins when i just start them and the amps and when they have been running for about 30 minutes and are nicely warmed up. It's allways the same. I start up everything, make a test and somehow i get a bit dissapointed. An hour later, running them at about 40% output, dj pushing long basslines, everything warms up nicely. A few hundred people comes to the party, i push them and suddendly damn, they are violent, precise, go deep. It's like there is a reasonable difference when the amps and drivers warm up.
Is this possible? We are talking about very old AB class peecker sound amps. 900w@4ohms.
 
GM, PVA is used to make a wide range of compounds. Glues included.

I'm well aware, so not sure what your point is. I mean I tried my wood glue because I know someone who had good luck re-doping an old driver with Elmer's cheap, runny white glue, but apparently there's a significant difference in the formulations. No clue if it's suitable/durable enough for a prosound app though.

Regardless, had a chit-chat with a re-coner and he pointed out that the surround coating I posted from SS is the same as the glue at SS except it includes a brush, plus found that it's apparently the same as the XL49 'glue' sold/used by the pros and at least some manufacturers except with a different label and that more than likely the 'no label' glue sold on ebay is the same, so I retract my reservations about using any of the three for doping cloth surrounds.

I was also told that AFA he knew, it's what GPA is now using.

FWIW, another viable compound is Aleene's Flexible Stretchable Fabric Glue: Aleene's Flexible Stretchable Fabric Glue 4 oz. at Joann.com

Last, but not least, for folks like me who believe the old noxious compound is superior to the latex, this is the modern day version of the decades old Permatex High Tack gasket sealer I use to periodically re-coat my woofers and 'green' be damned: Permatex]Permatex 80063 High Tack Gasket Sealant 16 oz. Bottle

Note that you don't want it too thick or it will run/sag once it gets hot.

Anyway, 'color me done' on the subject, good luck with whatever you choose and please let us know how it turned out.

GM
 
Big thanks to the guy from the forum that sent me a bottle of this compound ordered from JBL. It was exactly what it needed to be and it was black. Dried up like completly flexible liquid rubber and sealed the suspension. Bass bins that i coated work so much better now. Especially at low frequencies.
I didn't succeed measuring any difference in performance from the reconed one and the repaired ones!
Here is a picture after coating:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c316/athlon-64/basevi_zps1y9nifm3.jpg
 
Yeah! It looked like **** when it was yellow.
But it works event better... 4 of them coupled like this can do proper damage down do 40hz. And are not useless unless you pass 33-35hz. I now use them in a 3 way setup as subwoofers. Lowcut at 32hz, highcut at 65hz. When you give them such a small range of work damn they release some power in that sub bass specter. On the sides i have yamaha 2x18's that do 65-130hz work.

Here is just the driver:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c316/athlon-64/IMG_2149_zpsiqwli90f.jpg
 
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