I'm thinking of building a small bass cabinet that is no more than 14L (.5cf) internal. I'm aware of Hoffman's Iron Law so I don't expect miracles. I don't expect loud or deep bass. Here are more details of what I'm after:
15L max internal cabinet. Port or waveguides should not increase the cabinet's overall size and be internal.
-3db in the 50-60Hz range. Okay to have some bump in the response in the 60-80Hz range as long as it does not sound boomy.
driver doesn't need to handle a lot of power 10-20 watts is fine, 4 or 8 ohms. Reasonable cost.
I haven't modeled anything yet. I want to hear other's thoughts first.
Thank you for the time.
15L max internal cabinet. Port or waveguides should not increase the cabinet's overall size and be internal.
-3db in the 50-60Hz range. Okay to have some bump in the response in the 60-80Hz range as long as it does not sound boomy.
driver doesn't need to handle a lot of power 10-20 watts is fine, 4 or 8 ohms. Reasonable cost.
I haven't modeled anything yet. I want to hear other's thoughts first.
Thank you for the time.
Go for the Tang Band 6" mini-sub.
Sensitivity's not fantastic, but it'll hit 40Hz in that volume without breaking a sweat.
Mine stood >100w/ch.
IIRC, they were at 11L once port volume and driver volume was discounted, so that should leave you with plenty of space for porting. Aim for ~38Hz tuning, a 2.5" diameter port is just about fine, and can be used as an air cannon should the situation demand.
The ferrite version should be pretty cheap.
Chris
Sensitivity's not fantastic, but it'll hit 40Hz in that volume without breaking a sweat.
Mine stood >100w/ch.
IIRC, they were at 11L once port volume and driver volume was discounted, so that should leave you with plenty of space for porting. Aim for ~38Hz tuning, a 2.5" diameter port is just about fine, and can be used as an air cannon should the situation demand.
The ferrite version should be pretty cheap.
Chris
Since you’re ‘local’ and can use a 4 ohm driver, the popular MCM 55-2421 8" horn driver in your 14 L sealed cab yields an over-damped alignment that with a bit of room gain will more than meet your needs at high sound quality [SQ] plus will have plenty of dynamic headroom to shape its response with EQ if your amp has up to 240 W/4 ohms.
If the budget allows, two will work in this tiny net Vb and wired in series its high combined inductance will add more perceived mid-bass ‘slam’. Use a bipolar layout to ~cancel out its high excursion vibrations and if having one driver ‘exposed’ is acceptable, then mount one motor side out and reverse its wiring polarity to average out any excursion nonlinearities.
If you want to do your own sims, there’s quite a few sets of measured specs around the net.
GM
If the budget allows, two will work in this tiny net Vb and wired in series its high combined inductance will add more perceived mid-bass ‘slam’. Use a bipolar layout to ~cancel out its high excursion vibrations and if having one driver ‘exposed’ is acceptable, then mount one motor side out and reverse its wiring polarity to average out any excursion nonlinearities.
If you want to do your own sims, there’s quite a few sets of measured specs around the net.
GM
Thanks for the suggestions. The Tang Band is a bit pricey for me. The MCM driver looks interesting for another project I have. I did see a Dayton DC160-8. Price and specs look good. I ran it through WinISD and vented at 48Hz, I get -3db at 46Hz and a +1.1db peak around 65Hz. I may give that one a whirl.
I should mention this will end up behind the seat in my standard cab truck. The driver will mount on one 7x10" end.
I should mention this will end up behind the seat in my standard cab truck. The driver will mount on one 7x10" end.
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Interesting,
Dayton Audio DC160-8 6-1/2"
VB = 11.7 L, FB = 34.0 Hz
F-3 dB 20 Hz (gain)
port (1x) Diam. : 5.7 cm / L : 52.2 cm
One of the more successful standard cab trucks I've done was a very small ford ranger.
A pair of 8's on a baffle board that spanned the entire back, sealed to the back of the cab, firing directly into the back of both seats. A bit of 'bass shaker' effect on super low notes, and the acoustical resistance on both front/back sides worked wonderfully with the tiny cabin. Was fed by a 50 watt/channel amp.
7x10 end firing doesn't fit an 8, and you'll be able to tell where the bass is coming from firing into the corner of the cab. As counter intuitive as it sounds, directly into the back of the seat works best in a really small cab.
I vote for the mcm's... it sounds exactly like what you want for this.
A pair of 8's on a baffle board that spanned the entire back, sealed to the back of the cab, firing directly into the back of both seats. A bit of 'bass shaker' effect on super low notes, and the acoustical resistance on both front/back sides worked wonderfully with the tiny cabin. Was fed by a 50 watt/channel amp.
7x10 end firing doesn't fit an 8, and you'll be able to tell where the bass is coming from firing into the corner of the cab. As counter intuitive as it sounds, directly into the back of the seat works best in a really small cab.
I vote for the mcm's... it sounds exactly like what you want for this.
The MCM 55-2421 is an incredible woofer for what it cost.
I advised a Friend and fellow DIYer Byronkoeder to put two of these in one 2cuft. sealed box and he made two of them.
I had posted a picture of his setup a while back in another thread.
Each pair powered by there own 300watt plate amp and he said that he can't even turn them all of the way up as it is just to much for him to bare.
I have found all of the data I could on them and it appears that they are clones of the Tangband w8-740p "8 sub woofer.
You won't go wrong with the choice of these drivers and their high Xmax.
FWIW
jer
I advised a Friend and fellow DIYer Byronkoeder to put two of these in one 2cuft. sealed box and he made two of them.
I had posted a picture of his setup a while back in another thread.
Each pair powered by there own 300watt plate amp and he said that he can't even turn them all of the way up as it is just to much for him to bare.
I have found all of the data I could on them and it appears that they are clones of the Tangband w8-740p "8 sub woofer.
You won't go wrong with the choice of these drivers and their high Xmax.
FWIW
jer
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Congrats. You will get that added cabin gain. It should sound great. IMO, sealed with cabin gain in a 55hz sub is about just right since it kicks in at about 50hz.
Let us know. Show us some measurements if you can. I predict flat to 25hz.
You are correct. With the port stuffed, I get good clean bass down into the low twenties. I know my hearing rolls off at low frequencies, so I can't say how flat it is, but I'm impressed from such a small box. WinISD says the Qtc is 0.55.
With the port open, I get strong response in the upper 30 to 70-ish range. The kiddies might like that, but sealed seems the best for music.
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