Hello...This is my first post here.
I have a Sony HT System With 100W(RMS) per channel 5 + 1 Sub 100W rms..
Primary Use is Music..Although i get a Good Amount of Bass i Wanted to Add another Sub if that's Possible Or Replace it With a Better DIY Sub..
I have a JBL 300 Watt(RMS) Sub From My car So i had an Idea And wanted Your Advice or Opinions on whether it would work properly....
I saw a Bash Sub Pate Amplifier 300W RMS on partsexpress..
Bash 300W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier 300-750
My doubt is that if I connect my JBL Sub to the Plate Amp and Put it in an DIY Enclosure and hook the input of the plate Amp to the SUBWOOFER out of my Sony HT Receiver will it work without any issues and Will I get That Sound Quality you Usually Get with a JBL Sub?
I have a Sony HT System With 100W(RMS) per channel 5 + 1 Sub 100W rms..
Primary Use is Music..Although i get a Good Amount of Bass i Wanted to Add another Sub if that's Possible Or Replace it With a Better DIY Sub..
I have a JBL 300 Watt(RMS) Sub From My car So i had an Idea And wanted Your Advice or Opinions on whether it would work properly....
I saw a Bash Sub Pate Amplifier 300W RMS on partsexpress..
Bash 300W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier 300-750
My doubt is that if I connect my JBL Sub to the Plate Amp and Put it in an DIY Enclosure and hook the input of the plate Amp to the SUBWOOFER out of my Sony HT Receiver will it work without any issues and Will I get That Sound Quality you Usually Get with a JBL Sub?
Hi petercool',
Let me see if I understand your proposal/question. You have a 300w JBL car sub, and a 300w Bash plate from PE. You want to use the JBL in a diy subwoofer box, then feed the plate amp from the "Sub-output" on your "Sony" HT receiver; is that it? What's your concern... is it that you're not too sure if a "car sub" will work in the house?? We will need a little more info about: size of the room, box size, driver size/spec...etc. I will comment on one thing. 300 watts for a "HT sub", is not a lot of power; even my suv's sub gets fed 5 times that amount (1500w), and it only plays music (...okay, so I'm a little crazy
). Your new sub (imo), should at least match the power of the 5 ch sony (500w). Also, I wouldn't use two dissimilar subs in the same freq band, in the same room; potential problematic "out of phase" issues.rigtec, best regards
In short, most car sub drivers will "work" in the sense that they'll move air, etc., but many are engineered for confined spaces and very small enclosures relative to their size. While they can produce stupendous amounts of "bass" (of sometimes questionable quality depending on the install), they may not necessarily shine in the much larger cubic volumes of an even modest home theatre or music only listening room. For lowest frequencies in particular, the room size / placement matters at least as much as the (number of) driver(s) used.
Frankly, you might well be better served by looking at drivers designed specifically for home sub use - there are some excellent and very affordable models by folks like Parts Express' Dayton house brand.
Something that rigtec didn't mention that you might consider in the long term is that distributed bass - multiple, even smaller, woofers- can usually give far better results, and yes, regardless of size, it's best they be the same make/model.
Frankly, you might well be better served by looking at drivers designed specifically for home sub use - there are some excellent and very affordable models by folks like Parts Express' Dayton house brand.
Something that rigtec didn't mention that you might consider in the long term is that distributed bass - multiple, even smaller, woofers- can usually give far better results, and yes, regardless of size, it's best they be the same make/model.
JL Audio says that their car subs will work fine in a home enviornment when put in an enclosure 25% larger than what is recommended for auto use.
It comes down the the driver you intend to use and the implimentation.
A lot of the TH(tapped horn) guys are recommending the JBL woofers for their enclosures. 300WRMS would be plenty for that application.
It comes down the the driver you intend to use and the implimentation.
A lot of the TH(tapped horn) guys are recommending the JBL woofers for their enclosures. 300WRMS would be plenty for that application.
Thanks A Lot Guys..Honestly I didn't Expect Replies This Fast..There are many different JBL sub drivers...
As Troystg says that the JBL would be enough as my sub..
And Rigtec well Umm lets see..the size of the room is Pretty small...its 12ft By 15 ft
Box Size(WxDxH in Centimeters): 30 x 40 x 34
And my JBL driver is 8 inches.
what my actual doubt was that im already getting 100W out of my sony HT and when im feeding it to the Sub plate Amp of 300W what will the Total output be will it change or be the same?
the plate amp receives a signal not power from your receiver...the plate amp will plug into the wall and drive the woofer. Your receiver does have an internal amplifier which powers your surround speakers..but there should be a line-out terminal(like a one-plug RCA) u need a cable from that to the input of the amp...if your receiver doesn't have a line -out output it wont work....also i think the amp u mentioned, u need to buy a power supply...it should suggest it when u add it to the cart..as far as the sub working...my friend re-purposed an old audiobuan into a down firing tube -enclosure for HT ...its impressive..must tune the enclosure lower... maybe 28-30hz
peter - one of the advantages of plate amps (or dedicate sub amps such as the Dayton AP150) is their general inclusion of both line level ( RCA) and high level (speaker) inputs, adjustable LP XO and level adjustments.
As corrie alluded, depending on the feature set, your Sony may or not have filtered LFE line out, so the extra flexibility of these controls is hardly ever wasted.
As corrie alluded, depending on the feature set, your Sony may or not have filtered LFE line out, so the extra flexibility of these controls is hardly ever wasted.
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