Scientific and TB46,
Do you have the final plans of what was actually built (around post #451 to # 491)? I believe Scientific was calling it the TH18SC. I see lots of versions some with the keystone mouth and some with a more conventional horn mouth. I was originally thinking about building an Othorn to compare with my Keystone, but this might be worth a look. Anyone else build one of these? I love the sound of my keystone, but want to try out something with more extension.
Do you have the final plans of what was actually built (around post #451 to # 491)? I believe Scientific was calling it the TH18SC. I see lots of versions some with the keystone mouth and some with a more conventional horn mouth. I was originally thinking about building an Othorn to compare with my Keystone, but this might be worth a look. Anyone else build one of these? I love the sound of my keystone, but want to try out something with more extension.
Start reading from post #424
It's started from the Keystone TH to a more 'standard' TH type with lower extension for a truck-bed TH. Later on the collaboration started expanding to a dual 18/21 TH called the SC218 SC221. where SC stands for Scientific. It somehow hijacked to lab12 thread. I think I asked a mod to move the post from the SC to a new thread but it never happend.
Last edited:
Hey.
I just saw this thread, but I'm having a hard time figuring out which parts of it refer specifically to this design. Posts get a little diffuse along the way......
Is this the same sub @m R g S r outlines in the first post?
It looks quite similar to the insanely-priced Danley TH112. (I wonder if Danley used this very design?)
Are the final dimensions the same as outlined in that initial post?
What about the weight? That's a really big deal for this aging, one-man show. I'm definitely considering building some, but if I can't lift them into my truck, I'm doomed.
Size-wise, I figure I can get three in my Tacoma, and still have room for some SKB racks & lighting. Three would be 2 ohms, so I'd be OK with my amp in mono. Maybe change to plate amps later on. That would be sweet.
thx.
Last edited:
## Important question:
For complicated reasons, I would be MUCH better served if the height was 36", not 38".
Do you guys think the dimensions could be altered to make this work, without too much compromise? (A little wider, not deeper, would be best.)
------------------
Another oddball-but-serious idea:
What are the chances I could cut the boxes in half, and make them so they assemble together once in place at the event? You know, tight-fitting gaskets and really good latches. That sort of thing?
Has this ever been done, with ANY sub?
For complicated reasons, I would be MUCH better served if the height was 36", not 38".
Do you guys think the dimensions could be altered to make this work, without too much compromise? (A little wider, not deeper, would be best.)
------------------
Another oddball-but-serious idea:
What are the chances I could cut the boxes in half, and make them so they assemble together once in place at the event? You know, tight-fitting gaskets and really good latches. That sort of thing?
Has this ever been done, with ANY sub?
Last edited:
It's an MTH-type fold. It can be done (the MTH workbook on my page can help), but if the result is a wider cabinet, then I'd suggest going with a larger driver, if you don't already have the LAB12 drivers on hand.
I've seen horn extenders, but that's done at the mouth the horn. Cutting the entire cabinet in half? Um, no. And it probably won't work out well in this case, as you'll be cutting directly across a high-pressure section, so expect big losses unless you find a way to firmly clamp the parts back together.
Hey guys,
I've read through the thread and there seems to be some really nice ideas bouncing around. I modded TB46's MOD#4 a bit.
Added a round cut on the front side, so that it could be used standing up as a Keystone (though the mouth is all the way down (which I guess could be modified) or used as TB46 suggested in his design.
I've read through the thread and there seems to be some really nice ideas bouncing around. I modded TB46's MOD#4 a bit.
Added a round cut on the front side, so that it could be used standing up as a Keystone (though the mouth is all the way down (which I guess could be modified) or used as TB46 suggested in his design.
Hey guys!
After some time, I managed to make a pair of single Keystones SCmk3.
They house a B&C 21SW152 4ohm each. and sound pretty nice
I haven't been able to do outdoor measurements yet, but the indoor measurements looks pretty nice.
It's a pretty long horn tho... had to delay my unity horns 15ms to get them to play in phase
I'm taking them for a spin in the open later this month and will provide some data.
After some time, I managed to make a pair of single Keystones SCmk3.
They house a B&C 21SW152 4ohm each. and sound pretty nice
I haven't been able to do outdoor measurements yet, but the indoor measurements looks pretty nice.
It's a pretty long horn tho... had to delay my unity horns 15ms to get them to play in phase
I'm taking them for a spin in the open later this month and will provide some data.
It's a pretty long horn tho... had to delay my unity horns 15ms to get them to play in phase
FAQ | Danley Sound Labs | Danley Sound Labs, Inc.
"The Tapped Horn is not like a normal folded horn. The effective path length is not the path length of the horn. It is somewhere between the direct path from the drivers to the exit (on one side of the driver(s)) and the path all the way through the horn on the other side of the driver(s). The path length varies with frequency. How you integrate it into your system depends also on the phase response of the full range loudspeakers used-type of crossover filters and slopes used. Depending on the crossover freq and delay used, sometimes it is best to flip the polarity of the tapped horn in order to get the best response. This will need to be either measured or tested to be sure what is best. Here is a simple test to get close. Choose whatever crossover freq you want and put that frequency – ( use a sine wave) into the system-driving both the Tapped horn and the full range loudspeaker. Increase the delay time on the full range loudspeaker until you get a null and adjust so you get the maximum null. If you don’t get a null-but rather something that sounds like a bump, try reversing the polarity and adjust again. When you have the delay time in the deepest part of the null-invert the polarity on the sub and you will be done. The lower freq the Tapped horn goes, the longer the delay time will generally be. But in the range of 3-20ms would be typical-but it could be longer or shorter depending on the particular setup."
It doesn't have a keystone style mouth as per say. I'm pretty happy with how it sounds.
There is bracing just behind the driver and I'm planing on making an extra one. The subs were walking a bit, but after I put some rubber feet it stabilised.
I'm taking them out for a spin at a friends wedding next week where I'll run them strapped to each orher as in the picture.
As to the phase, I used SMAART to phase align. I think it's easy to get confused with the sine method as you may be 1 period away since the sin wave is periodic
I'll send measurements and pictures soon
There is bracing just behind the driver and I'm planing on making an extra one. The subs were walking a bit, but after I put some rubber feet it stabilised.
I'm taking them out for a spin at a friends wedding next week where I'll run them strapped to each orher as in the picture.
As to the phase, I used SMAART to phase align. I think it's easy to get confused with the sine method as you may be 1 period away since the sin wave is periodic
I'll send measurements and pictures soon
Been reading threads here from XoC1 to Keystone, and finally thinking I better start a bit smaller... PAL12! I do some live sound, and of course bass is generally the biggest shoe to fill or rent.
Quick Q: Has anyone modeled any Alpine type R subs in a PAL12, especially the SWR-1222D?
Specs here: http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_SWR-1222D.PDF
I know they were compared to the Lab12 in another design, but I can get a used pair for a good price, and way less than having to order a Lab. I can always switch to LAB's later. Pretty excited to start building.
Quick Q: Has anyone modeled any Alpine type R subs in a PAL12, especially the SWR-1222D?
Specs here: http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_SWR-1222D.PDF
I know they were compared to the Lab12 in another design, but I can get a used pair for a good price, and way less than having to order a Lab. I can always switch to LAB's later. Pretty excited to start building.