hey fokes!
I wants to know if its possible to hook a subwoofer driver up with a class t amp like the amp6 from 41hz.com or a ta2020 - 2024 from ebay?
The are very effetive so it could be good when building a mobile setup for outdoor playing..
I dont know if the amp has to have a lowpassfilter to be able to play them and i now that those amps donsn't have one :b
so the q in short: Can a class T chip amp run a subwoofer (+4ohm)??
I wants to know if its possible to hook a subwoofer driver up with a class t amp like the amp6 from 41hz.com or a ta2020 - 2024 from ebay?
The are very effetive so it could be good when building a mobile setup for outdoor playing..
I dont know if the amp has to have a lowpassfilter to be able to play them and i now that those amps donsn't have one :b
so the q in short: Can a class T chip amp run a subwoofer (+4ohm)??
Depends on the efficiency of the driver and what type of output you need. For general listening (at HIfi levels) it can work fine. (Check out the Boominator thread).
I use a cheap 10" DVC driver on my old boom bike and it sounds good with 15 watts, no lowpass was needed for this application.
My mobile trailer system with 6 ten's and a 4x100w TK2050 running on 24v is much more annoying! There are more powerful chip amps out now that will run off of DC and 48v if you need PA levels of output.
I use a cheap 10" DVC driver on my old boom bike and it sounds good with 15 watts, no lowpass was needed for this application.
My mobile trailer system with 6 ten's and a 4x100w TK2050 running on 24v is much more annoying! There are more powerful chip amps out now that will run off of DC and 48v if you need PA levels of output.
Determine how big of a box you want to lug around.
I would think that a pair of 15" bass reflex boxes and a Tk2050 or TAS5630 (others?) type amp would add some bump to the system, you will need a 24/36/48volt battery upgrade to get the most out of those amps.
Portability gets thrown out the window with the big boxes and heavy battery banks BTW.
I would think that a pair of 15" bass reflex boxes and a Tk2050 or TAS5630 (others?) type amp would add some bump to the system, you will need a 24/36/48volt battery upgrade to get the most out of those amps.
Portability gets thrown out the window with the big boxes and heavy battery banks BTW.
As long as you keep the load above 4Ohms those little amps will push a sub-driver... Will it keep up with the midrange? No.
For a mobile system I'd forget about the 20Hz to 40Hz octave.
edit: to clarify, I'm assuming a small sealed subwoofer. Which means low sensitivity via Hoffman's iron law.
For a mobile system I'd forget about the 20Hz to 40Hz octave.
edit: to clarify, I'm assuming a small sealed subwoofer. Which means low sensitivity via Hoffman's iron law.
Last edited:
Portable radios and ghettoblasters are often less than one watt, sometimes only 1/10 of a watt, and those get loud enough to be annoying. 10 watts to an efficient horn sub is like 100 watts to a typical home speaker. Try it and see.
It's not an unreasonable idea to have a little T-amp setup rigged to substitute for the proper amps. Maybe you just want to preview the speaker locations, verify speaker phasing and correct wiring, just need modest levels of background music without the noise of a generator.
It's not an unreasonable idea to have a little T-amp setup rigged to substitute for the proper amps. Maybe you just want to preview the speaker locations, verify speaker phasing and correct wiring, just need modest levels of background music without the noise of a generator.
Weight and size vs. SPL.
Although a horn will be more efficient the weight of the wood and size of a box that can go below 50hz would be hard to justify when you can now buy a much more powerful amp and get similar results without the bulk.
Although a horn will be more efficient the weight of the wood and size of a box that can go below 50hz would be hard to justify when you can now buy a much more powerful amp and get similar results without the bulk.
i've got a sure electronics 4x100watt @ 4ohms tk2050 board that powers 1 pair of DVC subs. the amp is the same as the 2x100watt @ 4ohms tk2050 which powers my current play project, only with 4 channels vs 2.
they are only good up to about 30watts into 8ohms before distortion starts kicking in on my play speakers, however on the sub you can't really pick up on this distortion till its about 70-80% of max into 3.5ohms and only then if its a very delicate series of bass notes. 30 watts into each VC into a dual 12" T-TQWT makes a fair bit of noise. the only problem is they get very hot.
they are only good up to about 30watts into 8ohms before distortion starts kicking in on my play speakers, however on the sub you can't really pick up on this distortion till its about 70-80% of max into 3.5ohms and only then if its a very delicate series of bass notes. 30 watts into each VC into a dual 12" T-TQWT makes a fair bit of noise. the only problem is they get very hot.
The Tuba 24 looks like a good way to maximise on the output of the sub by using the horn efficiency. Could build that from foam/fibreglass laminate to have a lightweight sub. with a neo driver like this eminence 10"
But what would be the best T-amp (or amps)to power 2 subs like this?
But what would be the best T-amp (or amps)to power 2 subs like this?
That's a drawback of cheap Chinese amplifiers. They must be as cheap as possible so heat sinks and output inductors are undersized for full power use.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.