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Driver at floor level or ceiling??
Driver at floor level or ceiling??
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Old 12th April 2012, 08:08 AM   #11
picowallspeaker is offline picowallspeaker  Italy
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Mmhh , , seriously !
I don't know your expectations on playing music...I guess that the monstruos bass department will be useful during some full orchestral attack , or some electronic music , or mocking the movie installations .
I feel that a 6.5 " driver it's ok for a normal room ; just made some listening and I absolutely prefer no tone controls ; someone else may prefer some loudness but it's not my cup of tea . It completely takes disregard of the content of the disc . I would like to know more of your system , Moondog.
The verb 'save' reminds me of some digital presets ....
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Old 12th April 2012, 08:21 AM   #12
Moondog55 is offline Moondog55  Australia
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Well the current "System" uses an old Yamaha C-80 modified with larger better storage caps and extra heat sink on the main trannies, with the case opened out for maximum airflow.
Behringer XO
Bass amps are 300 watts
Mid amp is a Rotel 1070
Large low Qtc MTM using high Qts 8inch Tandy Midrange and a cheap silk dome tweeter.
Couple of Cerwin-Vega 124s in 19 litre sealed boxes and a Kicker 15 inch in a 155 litre sealed box ( with large first order cap bank for low boost/infrasonic filter at 18 hertz~)
XO is currently at ~120Hz
That is the current system for stereo.
Home theatre system is separate and is different again
All speaker building has been on hold while we pay for and renovate this house.

WAF is wearing a little thin on the big black boxes
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Old 14th April 2012, 05:38 AM   #13
head_unit is offline head_unit  United States
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Driver at floor level or ceiling??
Considering new construction and WAF, I would kind of go off that false wall theory but not quite. I'd build the back wall maybe 5.5" or 7.5" deep (2x6 or 2x8 studs) with a very solid front and back (1"? There's probably something purposeful but I'm not a construction expert). I'd then seal all the joints to essentially build in cabinets for in-wall speakers and that could handle your subs in-wall. Just big sealed spaces for the subs. Even between standard 2x4 16" studs there's over 3 cubic feet if you consider the fiberglass insulation.

Trust me, in-walls painted the same color as the wall will be much better received than ANY box. And if the wall is well built, in-walls can sound BETTER than boxes due to eliminating an entire set of early reflections.

Just say "you know, I'm just going to build it all into the wall" and discuss the wall with the contractor when she's not around.

Don't do any weird corner pieces. Seen that done-it just looks weird, it will NOT look "built in." "Built in" means firing through a grille from the ceiling or wall or floor.

And, remember all woofers die eventually. Be sure to make something modular you can change later on.
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Old 14th April 2012, 05:46 AM   #14
Moondog55 is offline Moondog55  Australia
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I'll consider that option as well.
I can actually make a decent false wall up to 300mm deep as this wall was going to be made with staggered studs anyway
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Old 14th April 2012, 09:12 PM   #15
head_unit is offline head_unit  United States
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Driver at floor level or ceiling??
If it's an 8' tall room, that's 7.5' top to bottom depending on exact construction. With 16" studs that 14.5" = 1.2' between. Standard wall depth of 3.5" =0.3' (2x6: 5.5"=0.46'; 2x8: 7.5"=0.63'; 2x12: 11.5"=0.96)

So the typical wall is 7.5x1.2=9 square feet.
2x4=2.7 cubic feet, unstuffed.
2x6=4.1
2x8=5.7
2x12=8.6
Your results will differ since Australia is sensibly metric. But the point is you could go less than 300 mm if that is somehow a problem.

At 300mm, I'd be thinking to try and build in some kind of vertical horn array or something. I have a "someday" dream where a floor-to-ceiling array of drivers feeds into a spiraled horn, which opens into the room, emitting a floor-to-ceiling plane wave.
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Old 14th April 2012, 09:51 PM   #16
bjorno is offline bjorno  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by head_unit View Post
If it's an 8' tall room, that's 7.5' top to bottom depending on exact construction. With 16" studs that 14.5" = 1.2' between. Standard wall depth of 3.5" =0.3' (2x6: 5.5"=0.46'; 2x8: 7.5"=0.63'; 2x12: 11.5"=0.96)

So the typical wall is 7.5x1.2=9 square feet.
2x4=2.7 cubic feet, unstuffed.
2x6=4.1
2x8=5.7
2x12=8.6
Your results will differ since Australia is sensibly metric. But the point is you could go less than 300 mm if that is somehow a problem.

At 300mm, I'd be thinking to try and build in some kind of vertical horn array or something. I have a "someday" dream where a floor-to-ceiling array of drivers feeds into a spiraled horn, which opens into the room, emitting a floor-to-ceiling plane wave.
Hi,

The somewhat expensive approach: Use a JL Audio 13TW5-3 driver in a ~96L T-TQWT...f-3dB=~20 Hz-80Hz

JL Audio 13TW5-3 Component Car Subwoofers at Onlinecarstereo.com

b
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File Type: jpg JLAudio13TW5-3_Wall-corner_T-TQWT.JPG (228.1 KB, 70 views)

Last edited by bjorno; 14th April 2012 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 14th April 2012, 10:12 PM   #17
Moondog55 is offline Moondog55  Australia
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SWMBO would rather have nice bathroom, so no new drivers that expensive.
Preferably no new drivers at all he informs me
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Old 14th April 2012, 10:17 PM   #18
bjorno is offline bjorno  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moondog55 View Post
SWMBO would rather have nice bathroom, so no new drivers that expensive.
Preferably no new drivers at all he informs me
Yes, they are ridiculous expensive... Here is one more..:

Pulsar 10 Ultraflat Dual Coil Subwoofer

b
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Old 14th April 2012, 10:18 PM   #19
cbdb is offline cbdb  Canada
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You probably know this, but if at all possible make the room dimensions to avoid room mode overlap. If your making that wall with staggered studs to provide noise isolation (from your music into another room, not for external noise into your music) putting speakers in the wall is a bad idea.

Last edited by cbdb; 14th April 2012 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 14th April 2012, 10:33 PM   #20
cbdb is offline cbdb  Canada
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As far as placement,every boundary doubles the output (in theory, in practise it depends on the boundary) So a corner gives a gain of 8 times. The catch is higher freq will comb filter because you always have some distance between the wall and the driver. Thats why people soffit mount. (inwall). If i where you i would mount the subs in the wall (in a proper box) behind your main speakers a couple of feet up the wall. You wuold barely see them.
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