System Pictures & Description / Subwoofer Gallery

This is my current FOH, the subs are 4 x Peavey 18" Lowriders in 135ltr BR enclosures. The kick-bins are P.Audio 15" E15-350N, tops 12" E12-250N with 1" selenium Dt220i on a clone JBL waveguide. Probably not as loud as Tapped Horns which I would really like to build when finances are available but still quite capable and very mobile. All the cabinets can be lifted individually by one person.

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col.

What sort of crossovers/frequencies are each cabinet being run at?
Do you find front facing subs to be better than horns?

-Steve
 
..and now with some (bad quality)photos...
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marunga: we need better images, you can't make anything out.

Just finished stereo sub-woofers (subbies) today. Based on some seven year old polycone 12" woofers which have been in a few other systems. 60lt boxes with lots of internal bracing. The boxes will be driven my a 50W Class D amp.
 

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hi everyone, this is a sub ive made for a friend. it uses a bk electronics amp and dayton high fidelity 15". its in a 4.29cuft sealed enclosure made from 30mm mdf and internally braced with oak and finished with oak and gloss white formica. so im hoping he likes it.
 

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thank you mhouston, my friend wanted people to think it was just a table. hi petr1951, im not sure what you mean. are you refering to the cone being mounted on the bottom and that will cause the box to jump around? if so then no because of the weight of the thing.
thanks for the replies.
 
Lab 12 based subs

Here is a pair of Lab 12 (6 ohm version) based OD_ML_TL's.
That's Offset Driver_Mass Loaded_Tuned Length's.
The 2 boxes are slightly different versions with different port tunings.
They easily gobble up 29 Volts, about 200 watts I believe, but my house does not like that much power. Of course I do.
Each cabinet is about 128 Liters with a 280 CM horn path.
I included a few 1 Meter sweeps done with REW on the first box at different places in my listening room.
The calibration is as accurate as I could get it with a Radio Shack SPL meter following the REW instructions at 91 dB, but it could easily be 3 or 4 dB high.
The tests however were done in a concrete house, so room gain is dominant.
The one sweep shows an in room F3 of 16 Hz or so
.
Credit has to be given to Bjorno, Oliver (tb46) and NWCgrad for the design.
A thread is here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ded-transmission-line-od-ml-tl-design-bj.html

Dave
 

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El Phantasmo and the Chicken-Run Blastoramas

Ok, only one Blastorama is pictured (top), but you get the drift.

At the bottom is the POC2 TH, based on the 12" Dayton PA310 driver.

At the top is one of the "Blastoramas", using an Eminence Beta 8A driver and a Goldwood 2x5 piezo (yes, a piezo, yes, it sounds very good due to the way it was implemented, and no I don't want to hear any more on that subject :))

Two Blastoramas and the POC2 TH can be build for less than $250 in parts, not including wood, screws, glue and your "sweat equity".

The POC2 was built to test a concept, and the Blastoramas were built for a Christmas party, but it seems they make a great combination for a small and pretty mobile PA system. On three occasions now I've used them to provide background music at events, powered by my car's system (I use Alpine PDX amps, which makes it very easy to plug in different speakers when needed) and feedback has been positive.

I'm looking to design another subwoofer around the PA310 that's an even better fit for car transportation.

More about the POC2 TH here - The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : "Proof of Concept #2"

More about the Blastoramas here - The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : The Chicken-Run Blastoramas
 

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I purchased two old kicker subs for 20 bucks total. I can't get even the worst, cheap subs NEW for that little. Total. score. To my surprise, they seem brand new. I was surprised when I got them home and fully inspected them. They are from the 90's, too! The surrounds feel new with no sign of rotting. There weren't even marks from screws being used to mount them. No chips or scratches on frame or magnet. No sun fading on cone.
I bought them last year, and have not had money, time or tools to make enclosures.
They need almost 2 cubic feet sealed, so buying an pre-built was out of the question.

I over did the internal bracing. The increased complexity made it hard for me to finish properly. I ended up hand filing down a lot of the edges. I don't have a table saw.
I only had one place where there was a little bit of a gap. I used wood glue on everything, except the front 1.5" baffle. I needed to make sure it sealed properly. Before I put the baffle on, I smeared glue all over the inside corners. There are a lot of corners due to crazy baffling. After it dried, I watered down some wood glue and painted the whole entire interior. I used hurricane nuts to hold the woofers. I didn't do it right, and it was hard to tighten bolts. They holes were not straight and the nuts didn't line up perfect. Oh well. Better luck next time.
I did overdo it with the screws. Looks horrible. I don't feel like wasting money on bondo and paint right now. They will stay this way for a while.
This is by far one of the most solid enclosures I have ever built. You push the woofer in, and it comes out very slowly. No huffing or leaking even at full amp output. Box does not move around, even with no feet. I have always used polyfill in the past. This time I used fiberglass. Very deep and clean.
I only have two subs, so am doing an incomplete mult-sub set up. Better than nothing. Mains are not crossed over.
I plugged the ports on the main speakers, and they sound much smoother now. Bass is still deep, but is not buzzy or uneven. I think going all sealed has made the bass more subtle and clean. More musical. But still sounds good with electronic bass from rap/hip hop and electronic music. Shakes the walls. I think one more 12" will do the trick. It's ok for HT use, but I don't care about that much... I wanted good party speakers for EDM and other forms of party music, while also being able to play many types of music well at low volumes. So far, so good!

I have reached many of my goals of trying to stay as cheap as possible and using old stuff (swap meet, garage sales). I have only spent "big" money on the waveguides/cd and crossover. Money well spent. But still not too expensive compared to complete new speakers and pre built subs!!!
I got the sub amp for 15 bucks and it still works really well. The blown up one cost me 10 which is why I only have 2 subs right now. The 10 inch sub was free (I have another one I may make a ppsl with) and is running off the amp of a little 8" yamaha sub's amp. You can see the old black box behind it. That 8" is horrible! But with the amp going to the 10, it is way smoother sealed. I put 3 rubber feet on it from the old jbl sub I got for 10 bucks. It sits really solid now. I got the yamaha back in 2000 with my employee discount. Worth it. Funny enough, yamaha subs seem to be some of the most common subs sold at the swap meet. They sold well and are still around. That is a good sign for cheap stuff that works!
 

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