Doing an install in another home, Paradigm in-walls, not bad. But more very low bass would be nice.
Of course, there are many box subs out there to buy or construct. In this case, though, no good place to hide such or even to place it.
Therefore, considering in-wall subs. Yes, I well know that's problematic. At least it's an outside wall, so the back is meshed and stuccoed and pretty rigid, leaving just the risk of the inside drywall buzzing.
Supposing we accept that risk for reasons of aesthetics and space. What should we put in the wall? I calculate 2.7 cubic feet inside each stud (3.5"Dx14.5"Wx93"H), meaning >3 ft3 effective as there is fiberglass lining the whole thing.
Ideas for 10" or even bigger shallow drivers? Anyone carry raw grilles besides Parts Express?
Could this be ported somehow? (angled port? probably a nutty idea not feasible, but just thinking). Passive radiator?
There are 3 stud spaces available all next to each other. In other words, 6 studs @ 16" center-to-center forming 5 tall cavities in the wall. The outer 2 have the C280 v2 in-walls; the inner 3 stud spaces could fit the woofers and look nice.
Ideas?
Of course, there are many box subs out there to buy or construct. In this case, though, no good place to hide such or even to place it.
Therefore, considering in-wall subs. Yes, I well know that's problematic. At least it's an outside wall, so the back is meshed and stuccoed and pretty rigid, leaving just the risk of the inside drywall buzzing.
Supposing we accept that risk for reasons of aesthetics and space. What should we put in the wall? I calculate 2.7 cubic feet inside each stud (3.5"Dx14.5"Wx93"H), meaning >3 ft3 effective as there is fiberglass lining the whole thing.
Ideas for 10" or even bigger shallow drivers? Anyone carry raw grilles besides Parts Express?
Could this be ported somehow? (angled port? probably a nutty idea not feasible, but just thinking). Passive radiator?
There are 3 stud spaces available all next to each other. In other words, 6 studs @ 16" center-to-center forming 5 tall cavities in the wall. The outer 2 have the C280 v2 in-walls; the inner 3 stud spaces could fit the woofers and look nice.
Ideas?
Without budget constraints, this is the best in-wall subwoofer I have heard:
Fathom® IWS - JL Audio
Fathom® IWS - JL Audio
WoofersEtc.com - 12TW5-3 - JL Audio 12" Single 3 ohms TW5 Thin-Line Subwoofer
The above requires 2.5 inches of mounting depth--yes, it is a "car sub" but if you use 6 of them, give them some PA power it should break the plaster board.
There are less expensive versions from Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer, Kicker etc.
On the topic of throwing around vast quantities of money....
SUNFIRE: SubRosa In-Wall Subwoofer - SRS-210W SYS
The above requires 2.5 inches of mounting depth--yes, it is a "car sub" but if you use 6 of them, give them some PA power it should break the plaster board.
There are less expensive versions from Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer, Kicker etc.
On the topic of throwing around vast quantities of money....
SUNFIRE: SubRosa In-Wall Subwoofer - SRS-210W SYS
FYI: A DBA using 4 of the Peerless-MAC-SSW-P835028 drivers and a suitable LT and HPF to set the lower FR boundary:
b
Attachments
Heh, I think the price
...and the need to rip out all the drywall... probably put that out of reach. Wow, "Sunfire’s Frequency Filtration Design™ (FFD), features a woofer capable of reproducing 10% more information than previous designs. "
How can we resist?
Or, should we wait until they achieve 20% "more information"
FYI: A DBA using 4 of the Peerless-MAC-SSW-P835028 drivers and a suitable LT and HPF to set the lower FR boundary:
b
Ah, thanks, now that's interesting. But I should have specified that the woofers need to go at the bottom of the 3 stud cavities because the TV is above that. What happens in that case, if there are 3 of those each in the 3+ cubic feet?
That house has a second story, no attic, so it's not feasible. Something to think about in my house, though
Maybe this house should just stucco on a kind of outdoor closet to fit some big 18s venting through the wall!
There are hundreds, perhaps thousands of candidates that would fit in a stud wall and put out some bass.
Specify your SPL requirements, desired F3, upper crossover point and cost limit and you may get suggestions that fit your parameters.
Fair enough comment, though my quest is kinda open ended.
Given they would be in the same wall as the main speakers, the crossover point is flexible.
F6 down around 30 would be nice? With MultEQ XT I'm kinda presuming flatness is not the biggest concern but more like voltage sensitivity. Maybe that's a bad assumption and I need to investigate more about the actualities of MultEQ as opposed to Audyssey's promises?
Mostly I am looking for 10" or even 12" which can fit in the 3.5" depth of the wall, but work decently. What do I mean by that vague "work decently" statement? Well, as a counter-example, a super-heavy-mass 12" designed for a tiny box for car audio will probably not work optimally in a wall. I believe you would end up with a very droopy response and low voltage sensitivity through the bass region.
Given they would be in the same wall as the main speakers, the crossover point is flexible.
F6 down around 30 would be nice? With MultEQ XT I'm kinda presuming flatness is not the biggest concern but more like voltage sensitivity. Maybe that's a bad assumption and I need to investigate more about the actualities of MultEQ as opposed to Audyssey's promises?
Mostly I am looking for 10" or even 12" which can fit in the 3.5" depth of the wall, but work decently. What do I mean by that vague "work decently" statement? Well, as a counter-example, a super-heavy-mass 12" designed for a tiny box for car audio will probably not work optimally in a wall. I believe you would end up with a very droopy response and low voltage sensitivity through the bass region.
An EQ can flatten response, but won't increase the maximum LF SPL, which is determined by displacement.
Rather than a 10” (or 12"), you may be better served by multiple smaller speakers equaling (or exceeding) a single 10” displacement. Sensitivity and LF extension are not a problem if you use enough mini woofers.
If you dropped the speaker size down to 3.5”-4", the speakers could be slot loaded, pointing at each other, that would reduce “wall flop” considerably.
Rather than a 10” (or 12"), you may be better served by multiple smaller speakers equaling (or exceeding) a single 10” displacement. Sensitivity and LF extension are not a problem if you use enough mini woofers.
If you dropped the speaker size down to 3.5”-4", the speakers could be slot loaded, pointing at each other, that would reduce “wall flop” considerably.
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You might try harder to fit some tapped horns into the room. They can have unusual shapes which can make it easier to fit. Like new corners for the room. Or behind the screen. Or as a stage under the screen. Or as a rear sofa riser.
If you really can't find the space, consider some isobarics (half the enclosure size).
If you really can't find the space, consider some isobarics (half the enclosure size).
Well, that is a different idea. The wall would still vibrate due to internal pressure, but action/reaction would be balanced.
I would think however that for a free air application it would be tough to find drivers with low resonance and decent efficiency. Maybe a big slot up the wall, with a whole row of these things...
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