Hello!
B & C 18SW115 is heated?
Do you have any information that problems with 18SW115?
If I want to work it, I have to have 3600W 4ohm for one TH18?
TH118 sell:
2 Danley TH-118T Subwoofer Loudspeakers (TH118T-)
1, Crest Prolite 7.5 DSP power amplifier, (PROLITE-7.5DSP) (2450W 4ohm channel)
B & C 18SW115 is heated?
Do you have any information that problems with 18SW115?
If I want to work it, I have to have 3600W 4ohm for one TH18?
TH118 sell:
2 Danley TH-118T Subwoofer Loudspeakers (TH118T-)
1, Crest Prolite 7.5 DSP power amplifier, (PROLITE-7.5DSP) (2450W 4ohm channel)
Not heated in a problematic way, warmed up considerably warm to the touch but within it's limits! I have not had a single problem with the drivers. I would advice to carefully monitor the magnet temperature if going around 95 volts. I don't like to drive mine more than about 90 volts actually.
My amp supposedly delivers 1450w RMS at 8 ohm and 2300w RMS at 4 ohm on a good powersupply, as I only have two cabs I never use the 4 ohm load of the amp just 8 ohms(my plan was to maybe build 2 more in the future) and the 18sw115 can take very high abuse. I can only help you with what voltage I drive mine with, I'm not sure what 3600w at 4 ohm actually means as there are many ways to measure.
Also, the Th18 might load the 18sw115 differently than the Keystone so it's somewhat cabinet dependent if I understand it correctly. Good luck you will be very happy with them!
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I have used neither.
Based on forum opinions the fp14k could probably give 4x 18sw115 a pretty good beating, I would maybe go that route if what you do is very underground/for personal satisfaction. But if this will be for paying customers and expectations I would go with something else, 2x dynacord L2800FD bridged looks better in that regard, would be better due to 2x fuses aswell. I would worry that 4x 18sw115 on one fuse (if not 32A/230v) could lead to blown fuse if driven very hard.
The Original LAB 14k is a good product, price and performance stable. But it`s power supply isn´t optimum for heavy bass loads. I´ve seen quite a few amps with less watt on the spec sheet performing better, putting less load on the line (no active PFC in the LAB).
I´ve you are a professional contractor, the LABs make a lot of sense since they are asked for in riders, are very durable, last very long and support is outstanding. It`s easy to rent some more, there are many available on the rental market - so if you need a few more for one single job - no problem... Squeezing the last bit out of a power line is not the issue on professional jobs - you simply have enough wall power.
The China clones are much less reliable and well bulit. The manufacturer change parts on the inside as they are availble or not. We´ve seen many of these over the years (Sanway, Gisen, masteraudio, etc..) and not one of them was like the other (except for those from the same production batch).
If your are planing on using them as a hobby - you get a lot of power for small money. But I wouldn't relly on them. (Of course there are poeple out there using them, having no problems... But if you are the statistical one having the failure, it´s worth nothing that others have no probs).
So I´d rather look for "real bass amps" - spend some more money. The 18SW115 is a beast. If budget is an issue, look at something like used Hoellstern Amps, PKN Stereo Series, MC², Linea Resarch... PKN has really good value for the money, enough power, a very good PSU (active power correction) and is "clip safe" - probably one of the best choices for the money if driving bass...
If you go for "china LAB Clones", buy one spare
And have enough power on the wall socket available (the PSU tends to hit breakers)
I´ve you are a professional contractor, the LABs make a lot of sense since they are asked for in riders, are very durable, last very long and support is outstanding. It`s easy to rent some more, there are many available on the rental market - so if you need a few more for one single job - no problem... Squeezing the last bit out of a power line is not the issue on professional jobs - you simply have enough wall power.
The China clones are much less reliable and well bulit. The manufacturer change parts on the inside as they are availble or not. We´ve seen many of these over the years (Sanway, Gisen, masteraudio, etc..) and not one of them was like the other (except for those from the same production batch).
If your are planing on using them as a hobby - you get a lot of power for small money. But I wouldn't relly on them. (Of course there are poeple out there using them, having no problems... But if you are the statistical one having the failure, it´s worth nothing that others have no probs).
So I´d rather look for "real bass amps" - spend some more money. The 18SW115 is a beast. If budget is an issue, look at something like used Hoellstern Amps, PKN Stereo Series, MC², Linea Resarch... PKN has really good value for the money, enough power, a very good PSU (active power correction) and is "clip safe" - probably one of the best choices for the money if driving bass...
If you go for "china LAB Clones", buy one spare
And have enough power on the wall socket available (the PSU tends to hit breakers)Another vote for Crown Itech - I'm running the IT6000 (3000w per channel) on my 4ohm 18SW115 TH18's. Very powerful and "big sound" bass!
I used my TH18's at a bar DJ gig a few weeks ago. The tight and musical bass always puts a smile on my face! Here's a short video with some house music:
YouTube
I used my TH18's at a bar DJ gig a few weeks ago. The tight and musical bass always puts a smile on my face! Here's a short video with some house music:
YouTube
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Hey! I´m running 2x PAF212 on 4x TH18. Sounds great, but i´m about to change to a 4-way setup. 6x TH18, 2x MKH230 and two 12"/1,4" horn tops. Mainly for electronic music.
Would be also interested in the setups of you guys!
See the link below for a summary of the TH18.
The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : DIYAUdio Projects - The TH18
Note: I think the design may be in need of a bit of minor adjustment, given subsequent information that has come to light about designing these systems (e.g. the use of "semi-inductance" parameters to better describe the response at the upper end of the passband). Once I get some time on my hands (and I have precious little of that available these days!), I intend have a look at it.
Ok, wow! What a read. A million thanks to everyone who has contributed to this. I will try to keep my question simple. Pulling info from many thread responses I am left with this final decision. Use djim's great info on using the three level boards for cone correction, i plan to use the recommended 18sw115 driver. Or try to approximate the other recommendations given in these other 3 images. I am leaning towards approximating the cone correction in the method that will further increase the horn length to hopefully maximize low frequency ability. Its a little more work but from what I have studied in the thread it seems to be worth it. Now I do have one point unresolved. In the cad type drawing of the full cabinet posted by xoc I see he has suggested to increase the path length even further by extending the divider at the 12 oclock position. Looking for a confirmation that I should also do this if I do the approximation method of reshaping the first couple bends as suggested in the other two images. On that note, if there is anyone around still watching this thread that has any measurements or anything that can help me do this approximation more accurately or where I could find more info on it I would hugely appreciate it. Thank you
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