Hi NEO Dan,
I will go look for that ,I am not a speaker tester new ground so to speaker ,One speaker is built and working,lol. I did run a Z and a free air in DATS,I did download ARTA and have been digesting it's contents,I'll find REW and check back,It is playing and sounding good still a little cone stiff but getting better sounding each time I play it.
I f you would like to tutor me along, I need the help ,mostly understanding the results I get ,the graphs and plots I am not familiar with!
PM if you like!
Thanks,
NS
I will go look for that ,I am not a speaker tester new ground so to speaker ,One speaker is built and working,lol. I did run a Z and a free air in DATS,I did download ARTA and have been digesting it's contents,I'll find REW and check back,It is playing and sounding good still a little cone stiff but getting better sounding each time I play it.
I f you would like to tutor me along, I need the help ,mostly understanding the results I get ,the graphs and plots I am not familiar with!
PM if you like!
Thanks,
NS
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I found a REW setup video that is geared toward room acoustics evaluation but it will get you going and from there I can show you the finer points on getting a good anechoic measurement of your sub.
Room EQ Wizard: REW Room Measurement Tutorial - YouTube
Room EQ Wizard: REW Room Measurement Tutorial - YouTube
I see you put insulation in the back top corner where a lot of us cut holes for handles. Do you plan on putting your handles on the exterior? Or flush/cut-out somewhere else?
You could put some casters on the back bottom diagonal panel - they'll also act as tilt-back prevention there. Total height of the casters will have to be smaller than 4" (IIRC) if you want them centered back there. I have exact dims somewhere...and what casters I went with somewhere else...
Thanks - means a lot. I worked a lot of hours. For some reason, I cared a lot about what they'd look like on the inside - knowing it wouldn't make them sound better. I just wanted them to look delicious since I figured they'd sound that way.
I'm working on inset grills. Almost finished. I'll post pics when they're completed.
Anyone know where to get plastic/polyurethane strips to mount on the back of cabinets to prevent scuffs/scratches from loading/unloading? Kinda like how oldschool fishtail skateboards used to have on the bottom.
Any thoughts on acoustically transparent foam behind the grills?
TCH
Reliable Hardware
Clark Foam
(found these links on PSW)
Seems like at the frequencies you're going to be running that you wouldn't necessarily need to spend extra money on "acoustically transparent foam". The filter foam looks like it would be inexpensive and easy to use... don't have any real world experience with it though.
Foam can help eliminate the ringing of metal grills.
I prefer (non-organic) grill cloth, it does not ring, and is easy to clean and does not retain odors.
I have not used foam grill since the mid 1980's, when loading out on the last day of a Gang of Four tour, New York City stagehands managed to set most of the tilt back cabinets grill down in the street gutter which was flowing with dumpster juice.
We gagged when we opened up the truck back in St. Paul, the grilles went directly in to our dumpster.
Art Welter
Hi guys great builds and thank all of you for your info,I connected my sig gen a dynascan 310 to the input of a DEQ2496 to SX3040 to DCX2496 to the 500 watt amp to the sub and turned it on ,was on very low volume [swept from 30hz to 160hz],playing with the knobs,My daughter comes in my garage and says could you turn that down please the dishes and my window in my bedroom is vibrating,
The grill,Idea maybe make some shutters for the opening,the type with wood that slants down,it would keep hands and anything wet out,????
Ns
The grill,Idea maybe make some shutters for the opening,the type with wood that slants down,it would keep hands and anything wet out,????
Ns
