Used a cone correction by sticking three layers of 18 ply as in the image. I hope I wont have any problems with the compression
I used a very useful and strong glue from Bison that expands a little and is VERY VERY VERY strong. I tested it by sticking with 10 small smidges of glue two 50cm long pieces of wood in a T shape and after 24 i managed to rip it of only when I clamped it an a table and hiting it with a hammer
Nice build!
I would have done the v2 like the ss15 v2 with the little extra hornlength giving cone correction
Bear in mind that too much cone correction can kill efficiency. It's probably best to go for too little rather than too much.
Here is a quick measurement taken indoors close mic at 25 cm from mouth.
The subs are installed up on a bracket with the mouth in the top, facing forward, at around 25 cm from the ceilling. exactly in front of the subs, on the ceilling there are 2 air vents. I didn't do any measurements before installing so I cannot know if that 53 Hz peak is from reflexitions or from the sub, but hey both measure identical
The subs are installed up on a bracket with the mouth in the top, facing forward, at around 25 cm from the ceilling. exactly in front of the subs, on the ceilling there are 2 air vents. I didn't do any measurements before installing so I cannot know if that 53 Hz peak is from reflexitions or from the sub, but hey both measure identical
Attachments
The cone correction I'm talking about extends path length, well tested!
Any news on the sims? I think the CBe sim could be correct as DJim made a new sim for it with the correct volume, in this case it's very interesting how it matches & beats the TH-18.
-Damn the pic / Quote is gone, look at page 215 for graph ...
Any news on the sims? I think the CBe sim could be correct as DJim made a new sim for it with the correct volume, in this case it's very interesting how it matches & beats the TH-18.
Any hornresp inputs for the sims below?
I just bought 4 cyclops, I could do an A/B with Andy some day, he built Xoc1 TH18s (look back in thread
I expected the xco1 to go lower & about as loud
-Damn the pic / Quote is gone, look at page 215 for graph ...
hi everybody
so we finally ordered two b&c sw115-4 for 2 h18, to go with 2x cubo kicks and mt121.
We are going with mk1 version due to precise cutsheet and dimensions available, although we think to employ djm suggested sheet cone correction.
a couple questions
we are thinking of using 21 mm ply for the sides and back of the cab, a 3050 x 1525mm sheet should be enough, and double 18 panel for the base, plus bracing. Looks fine?
we can buy phenolic birch ply, either from russia or from finland, 35% more expensive. we see baltic birch as general suggestion, is russian baltic too?
so we finally ordered two b&c sw115-4 for 2 h18, to go with 2x cubo kicks and mt121.
We are going with mk1 version due to precise cutsheet and dimensions available, although we think to employ djm suggested sheet cone correction.
a couple questions
we are thinking of using 21 mm ply for the sides and back of the cab, a 3050 x 1525mm sheet should be enough, and double 18 panel for the base, plus bracing. Looks fine?
we can buy phenolic birch ply, either from russia or from finland, 35% more expensive. we see baltic birch as general suggestion, is russian baltic too?
Bracing is more important here than wall thickness. And if you still want to be able to lift this from the ground, you should stick with 18mm IMO.
I used the cone correction and I am pleased with the results. I didn't have the chance to test them outside though, so I can't get a good measurement.
I had the chance to make a comparisson with 2 JBL wtx 118 and the 2 th feels lower, more powerfull, but the wtx has the edge on impact and quality impression. Plus, they were used with Itech 4*3500 amd mine on a K6 stereo in 8 ohms
I used the cone correction and I am pleased with the results. I didn't have the chance to test them outside though, so I can't get a good measurement.
I had the chance to make a comparisson with 2 JBL wtx 118 and the 2 th feels lower, more powerfull, but the wtx has the edge on impact and quality impression. Plus, they were used with Itech 4*3500 amd mine on a K6 stereo in 8 ohms
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Well said.
I am even working on some foam core designs that are very light and heavily braced.
So 18mm will be, thanks.
What about russian vs finnic birch? Any advice? The finnic is paler and with cleaner surfaces, but we are going to paint it... Russian is 4 x8', finnic is 5x10'and costs like 30% more..glueing is fenolic in both.
I could pay the difference if i knew it could be worth.
Greetings
Joh
What about russian vs finnic birch? Any advice? The finnic is paler and with cleaner surfaces, but we are going to paint it... Russian is 4 x8', finnic is 5x10'and costs like 30% more..glueing is fenolic in both.
I could pay the difference if i knew it could be worth.
Greetings
Joh
You can use both. AA/AA is the best OPTICAL Quality you can get - as long as it is painted with strukture paint, you can go as low as CC/CC, we use BB/BB oder BB/CC most of the times. The bond also is important, if the bond/glue is phenolic,it`s absolutely fine - most of the times D3 or D4 (waterresistent) is offered, too, which is fine...
We have some cabinets out of birch plywood, phenolic bond (every layer is glued together with phenol). Those are 30 years old, were standing in a club and were watered by the cleaning-crew every few days.... Almost no defects in the wood..... Normal Birch plywood (MPX) BB/BB with a D4 bond won´t last that long under such conditions - but who places loudspeakers in a almost permament wet environment?
We have some cabinets out of birch plywood, phenolic bond (every layer is glued together with phenol). Those are 30 years old, were standing in a club and were watered by the cleaning-crew every few days.... Almost no defects in the wood..... Normal Birch plywood (MPX) BB/BB with a D4 bond won´t last that long under such conditions - but who places loudspeakers in a almost permament wet environment?