the front plate is part of the tunnel system,and is needed for this type of box.
the bracings need to be placed in the center of the front>speaker baffle>back pannel,to reduce pannelflex(pannelflex reduces output)
i would make a brace against the top pannel aswel
for starters set the hpf @ 30 hz as steep as possible.
i think these subs are excurion limmited,meaning excursion limmit wil be reached before the power limmit is reached.
the bracings need to be placed in the center of the front>speaker baffle>back pannel,to reduce pannelflex(pannelflex reduces output)
for starters set the hpf @ 30 hz as steep as possible.
i think these subs are excurion limmited,meaning excursion limmit wil be reached before the power limmit is reached.
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the front plate is part of the tunnel system,and is needed for this type of box.
the bracings need to be placed in the center of the front>speaker baffle>back pannel,to reduce pannelflex(pannelflex reduces output)
i would make a brace against the top pannel aswel
for starters set the hpf @ 30 hz as steep as possible.
i think these subs are excurion limmited,meaning excursion limmit wil be reached before the power limmit is reached.
Hey Epa,
can you do a 3d sketchup pic of how the braces would be placed
i havent build any wood box yet , i can understand the words you say
but cant draw a picture on my brain of it
Excursion limit can be controled with the HPF right ?
Thank Man
Max.
Stud Walls
maxo,
That is an excellent method of bracing.
Think of it as adding the studs from a stud wall to the panels of your speaker boxes.
If you can glue on good quality 3/4 plywood all the way around on 8" to 12" centers, your box will become super stiff.
.
I recently cheaped out and bought a kit flatpack speaker and although it was made from 18 mm thick, dadoed birch ply, the wood was only 7 plies and when finished the box vibrated like crazy with an automotive 12" woofer installed in it and sealed.
I went back and glued 18 mm X 2" wide strips, using 2 screws per strip, from the outside to hold them till the glue dried, all the way from bottom to top, up the back and across the top too.
I put them on 9" to 10" center to center according to what fit on each wall.
Now the box is solid as a rock.
.
Also, if you have this structure inside a box, it is a great way to add some damping material.
You staple a thin (1/2" to 1" thick) sheet of fiberglass on top of the "studs" so it is held 2" away from the wall.
That gap makes the damping material act slightly differently in a sealed box that has a pressure swing as the air travels through the damping, back and forth and well... without going into it too much, the insulation acts like a heat exchanger which lowers the hysteresis losses in the internal gas and helps to isothermalize the internal gas.
Dave
Google_ regenerator, or regenerative heat exchanger on Wiki
maxo,
That is an excellent method of bracing.
Think of it as adding the studs from a stud wall to the panels of your speaker boxes.
If you can glue on good quality 3/4 plywood all the way around on 8" to 12" centers, your box will become super stiff.
.
I recently cheaped out and bought a kit flatpack speaker and although it was made from 18 mm thick, dadoed birch ply, the wood was only 7 plies and when finished the box vibrated like crazy with an automotive 12" woofer installed in it and sealed.
I went back and glued 18 mm X 2" wide strips, using 2 screws per strip, from the outside to hold them till the glue dried, all the way from bottom to top, up the back and across the top too.
I put them on 9" to 10" center to center according to what fit on each wall.
Now the box is solid as a rock.
.
Also, if you have this structure inside a box, it is a great way to add some damping material.
You staple a thin (1/2" to 1" thick) sheet of fiberglass on top of the "studs" so it is held 2" away from the wall.
That gap makes the damping material act slightly differently in a sealed box that has a pressure swing as the air travels through the damping, back and forth and well... without going into it too much, the insulation acts like a heat exchanger which lowers the hysteresis losses in the internal gas and helps to isothermalize the internal gas.
Dave
Google_ regenerator, or regenerative heat exchanger on Wiki
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Hey Dave,
what about some solid wood for braces, can that bring benefit ?
instead of plywood,like those 2x4 wood but i think 1x2 will suffice
as the 2x4 will rob too much of the internal volume...
just a tought
Max
Oops..You got ahead of me.
Yea, anything is better than nothing.
Ply is allot stiffer in the bending direction, and there are woods that are way stiffer than Pine one by.
It is all relative, I used Baltic Birch because I had a bunch of thin strips left over and it was right there instead of at the lumber yard.
.
Anyway, I think you get the idea of how much stiffer a few ribs will make a flat panel.
Dave
Yea, anything is better than nothing.
Ply is allot stiffer in the bending direction, and there are woods that are way stiffer than Pine one by.
It is all relative, I used Baltic Birch because I had a bunch of thin strips left over and it was right there instead of at the lumber yard.
.
Anyway, I think you get the idea of how much stiffer a few ribs will make a flat panel.
Dave
Ic,
hey any recommended or minimum list of tolls for a newbie woodbutcher
just the basics to build this box
plus choice of hurricane nuts, and gasket and backplate
people like duratex, but i read somebody used truck bed liner
also do you need to stuff the inside with damping material or no
hey any recommended or minimum list of tolls for a newbie woodbutcher
just the basics to build this box
plus choice of hurricane nuts, and gasket and backplate
people like duratex, but i read somebody used truck bed liner
also do you need to stuff the inside with damping material or no
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first of all ,get help from a more experiance dude.
its not rocket sience,but a little help is always welcome .
you need polyuteran glue,and gun.
4x40mm screws,screwmachine.
screw every 3"starting 2"from the ends.
woodclamps are usefull .
i'd use t-nuts
connection plates,any wil do.
on this side ,of the pond whe use warnex with a roller like this
i would round the edges ,so it won't dammage so easy.
no damping is neede in this type of box
its not rocket sience,but a little help is always welcome .
you need polyuteran glue,and gun.
4x40mm screws,screwmachine.
screw every 3"starting 2"from the ends.
woodclamps are usefull .
i'd use t-nuts
connection plates,any wil do.
on this side ,of the pond whe use warnex with a roller like this
i would round the edges ,so it won't dammage so easy.
no damping is neede in this type of box
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Epa
who you will be a good candidate to ask for advice
on the cut list there is only 2 braces, looks like they are the ones attached to the baffle
what about the top one
also, what about if i add some ribs like i sketched on post #43
instead of making a "to fit" brace from front to baffle and baffle to back panel
( you need to cut to spec )
ribs are easier to glue on
who you will be a good candidate to ask for advice
on the cut list there is only 2 braces, looks like they are the ones attached to the baffle
what about the top one
also, what about if i add some ribs like i sketched on post #43
instead of making a "to fit" brace from front to baffle and baffle to back panel
( you need to cut to spec )
ribs are easier to glue on
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