M-Audio MobilePre USB Interface with Microphone Preamp at zZounds
It is an original model M-Audio MobilePre USB. It has a slight roll off starting at 200hz to -3db at 10hz. However REW allows a calibration so the result is flat from 2hz to 18k.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f1f4dqvso17btw3/20151007_212415.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pygfkizlglcuiu7/20151007_224234.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/adivyrm2mm9i7b0/20151007_230702.jpg?dl=0
Progress of the first box of two, got everything cut up by the lumber mill and it fits really nicely after a few alterations. Got all the panels cut with 90° cuts, I use polyurethane glue for the angles and regular wood glue for the rest(almost all) of the joints!
Only the boring stuff left on this box... connectors, route, sand and paint!
How do you guys connect the speaker and back connector panel to the wire? Do you solder or use these guys? http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys_master/9106169397278.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pygfkizlglcuiu7/20151007_224234.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/adivyrm2mm9i7b0/20151007_230702.jpg?dl=0
Progress of the first box of two, got everything cut up by the lumber mill and it fits really nicely after a few alterations. Got all the panels cut with 90° cuts, I use polyurethane glue for the angles and regular wood glue for the rest(almost all) of the joints!
Only the boring stuff left on this box... connectors, route, sand and paint!
How do you guys connect the speaker and back connector panel to the wire? Do you solder or use these guys? http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys_master/9106169397278.jpg
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Progress of the first box of two, got everything cut up by the lumber mill and it fits really nicely after a few alterations. Got all the panels cut with 90° cuts, I use polyurethane glue for the angles and regular wood glue for the rest(almost all) of the joints!
Only the boring stuff left on this box... connectors, route, sand and paint!
How do you guys connect the speaker and back connector panel to the wire? Do you solder or use these guys? http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys_master/9106169397278.jpg
Code:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/adivyrm2mm9i7b0/20151007_230702.jpg?[COLOR="Red"]dl=0[/COLOR]
Use the insert image button and change dl=0 to raw=1Here's a video of the second 21" version:
https://youtu.be/dVP93h0WfT8
some boards disappeared, that's why one is non coated birch and three are 21mm.
Beyma 21sw1600 is insane in there, I think I'm going to test 18sound nlw9000 next week, anyone knows this one?
Is it older and will it recone into nlw9600?
https://youtu.be/dVP93h0WfT8
some boards disappeared, that's why one is non coated birch and three are 21mm.
Beyma 21sw1600 is insane in there, I think I'm going to test 18sound nlw9000 next week, anyone knows this one?
Is it older and will it recone into nlw9600?
This is an amp question, but I am asking here because it applies only to being used with the KS subs. I am using the TBW100 4ohm drivers.
What are your thoughts on:
QSC RMX 2050A bridged 4 ohm on 1 KS = 2450 watts $750 x2 $1500
QSC RMX 4050A stereo 4 ohm 1 ch/KS = 1400 watts $1500
QSC RMX 5050A stereo 4 ohm 1 ch/KS = 1800 watts $1700
Do I trust the 2050A to run reliably bridged giving me the most headroom? (my unscientific thought is while it's a much harder load on the amp, that the amp will also not be running at its max power because the TBW100 will reach xmax before that happens.
Do I go with the bigger 4050A amp for the same money, sacrifice total power, but run an easier load on the amp (some people state this sounds better, but I can't quantify that and need your experience)
Do I spend the most for the 5050A to get the most power I can using the 4050A's reasoning?
Thanks in advance guys
After a lot of research I have talked myself out of the cheaper crowns and out of the xti2.
What are your thoughts on:
QSC RMX 2050A bridged 4 ohm on 1 KS = 2450 watts $750 x2 $1500
QSC RMX 4050A stereo 4 ohm 1 ch/KS = 1400 watts $1500
QSC RMX 5050A stereo 4 ohm 1 ch/KS = 1800 watts $1700
Do I trust the 2050A to run reliably bridged giving me the most headroom? (my unscientific thought is while it's a much harder load on the amp, that the amp will also not be running at its max power because the TBW100 will reach xmax before that happens.
Do I go with the bigger 4050A amp for the same money, sacrifice total power, but run an easier load on the amp (some people state this sounds better, but I can't quantify that and need your experience)
Do I spend the most for the 5050A to get the most power I can using the 4050A's reasoning?
Thanks in advance guys
After a lot of research I have talked myself out of the cheaper crowns and out of the xti2.
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Those amps can handle 2 ohm stereo or 4 ohm bridged operation reliably.
You are limiting your choices to some very heavy inefficient amps, but given those choices I'd choose the pair of bridged 2050A for the extra power and redundancy, you could still run the pair off one amp if one craps out.
A Behringer NU 6000 would give you more output power, draw far less power from the AC service, run cooler, and cost (and weigh) a fraction of the QSC amps and provide a three year warranty.
I'm only limiting out of ignorance and lack of experience with different amps. Trying to swim through a sea of marketing where even hard numbers don't translate into real performance.
I was under the impression that class D amps needed a very clean A/C source and when running off of generators AB would fair better. This amp will see both.
I've yet to say any sound stage that I was impressed with have behringer anything in the amp racks. Reliability is very important. I warranty won't let the show go on. Again, I have never owned a behr amp so should I really form this opinion?
I come from the line of thought that amps are amps if the meter reads the voltage you paid for...you're done. I wish I could play with several amps and write up a real world comparison.
They are BLOWING OUT the only crown XLS line... XLS2500 for 300.00 if it is a decent sub amp I really should consider 2 of those for 600.00 I researched myself into a circle on the cheaper crowns.
I realize this is physics and there is no magic sauce going into the electronics and the prices are set by market not quality or components.
I like that with a 5050a I could add 2 more KS and run 2ohm a channel. One amp for 4 subs though would be show ending devastation if it failed vs 4 xlr 2500 for less money.
I was under the impression that class D amps needed a very clean A/C source and when running off of generators AB would fair better. This amp will see both.
I've yet to say any sound stage that I was impressed with have behringer anything in the amp racks. Reliability is very important. I warranty won't let the show go on. Again, I have never owned a behr amp so should I really form this opinion?
I come from the line of thought that amps are amps if the meter reads the voltage you paid for...you're done. I wish I could play with several amps and write up a real world comparison.
They are BLOWING OUT the only crown XLS line... XLS2500 for 300.00 if it is a decent sub amp I really should consider 2 of those for 600.00 I researched myself into a circle on the cheaper crowns.
I realize this is physics and there is no magic sauce going into the electronics and the prices are set by market not quality or components.
I like that with a 5050a I could add 2 more KS and run 2ohm a channel. One amp for 4 subs though would be show ending devastation if it failed vs 4 xlr 2500 for less money.
A good Class D should be fine off a generator. I don't know if I'd put the iNukes in that category. They don't have power factor correction and tend to be a tricky load to drive.
This is an NU6000 4 Ohms 31hz both channels driven outputting 1.80k
You can see that the iNuke is drawing peaks of 80A from the mains in the trace on the bottom.
This isn't ideal, obviously, but I think whether or not it's a real issue might depend on the generator and whatever else it's driving. If you're running a cheap generator that has max output barely above what you're trying to draw with the amp and it's putting out dirty power, yeah that might be a problem.
If you've got a reasonably good quality generator that has ample clean power capacity and you've got other loads that behave more like a normal resistive load, you might see no issue at all.
I was running a NU3000dsp off a Honda EU2000i at a festival and trying to milk every dB of power I could get out of the system. The iNuke seemed much more eager to trip into protect mode at the limit of the power I could get out since both the amp and the generator were struggling, but if you turn it a bit down from that point it seemed to work well enough.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is an NU6000 4 Ohms 31hz both channels driven outputting 1.80k
You can see that the iNuke is drawing peaks of 80A from the mains in the trace on the bottom.
This isn't ideal, obviously, but I think whether or not it's a real issue might depend on the generator and whatever else it's driving. If you're running a cheap generator that has max output barely above what you're trying to draw with the amp and it's putting out dirty power, yeah that might be a problem.
If you've got a reasonably good quality generator that has ample clean power capacity and you've got other loads that behave more like a normal resistive load, you might see no issue at all.
I was running a NU3000dsp off a Honda EU2000i at a festival and trying to milk every dB of power I could get out of the system. The iNuke seemed much more eager to trip into protect mode at the limit of the power I could get out since both the amp and the generator were struggling, but if you turn it a bit down from that point it seemed to work well enough.
You said festival
What type of music were you playing? It's hard to get good feedback of what sounds "good" and what is "enough" when seldom do I hear the music played back. If I just needed to output some rock 'n roll - I wouldn't even be overthinking this. Wedding DJ's - just playing the hypercompressed pop hits with some old school "hey I know that tune" isn't the type of environment I will be in. More like blinky lights, fire spinning, house/trap/bass dance until sunrise environments.
1) I did a comparison of several amps before concluding the Behringer was quite good.
2) The NU4-6000 worked fine running of a cheap 12V/120V inverter, which puts out a "modified sine wave" (stepped square wave) probably more gnarly than the worst generators you could find. Good generators have as clean power as is generated by the US AC grid.
3) Most users of Behringer products are entry level folks, generally clueless about operational details that make for sonic excellence. As far as reliability, since Uli has gone to using only his own factories, Behringer's reliability is better than most other manufacturers. That said, there is no amp I consider reliable enough to not have a back up plan in case of failure.
4) I did play with a lot of amps (QSC PLX 3600, Crest CC 2800, SpeakerPower Torpedo SP1-4000) may have already posted this before, but here it is again:
Just before the last Christmas holidays I conducted a battery of tests on some old amplifiers and a new Behringer NU4-6000 four channel amplifier. To my surprise, the NU4-6000 performed as well on low frequencies as on mid/high frequencies, and is capable of near full power sine wave output with all four channels driven to rated output at two ohms, or two bridged mono pairs driving four ohm loads each. The $350 NU4-6000 appears to be within 3 dB of the $5500 Powersoft K10 rating on sustained (more than 1 second) output.
The NU4-6000 with two bridged mono pairs each driving four ohm loads just below the illumination of the clip/limit light each put out 85.5 volts at 60 Hz (1828 watts), 84.6 volts at 30 Hz (1789 watts), dropping the mains voltage on a 100' 10AWG 120V line from 118.1 volts down to 107.2 volts, drawing 31 amperes.
Using just one bridged mono pair, the amp ran for 40+ seconds before I terminated the test, as the amp was drawing 19.8 amperes, and the "tired" 20 amp mains breaker had popped several times in various tests already. The amp would have put out more power given a full 120 volts, but the test represents "real world" situation, we don't generally plug our amplifiers in to an outlet two feet from the mains transformer.
I also tested my old "heavy iron" bass favorite, a Crest CA9, bridged into a 4 ohm load it dropped the mains to 99.6 volts, drew 37.8 amps but only put out 80 volts (1600 watts). The NU4-6000 put out more power, and drew only 50% of the power from the mains compared to the CA9.
My back (and bank account) are very pleased with the NU4-6000, after the testing I purchased another pair.
Art
Yep, up at Paradiso Festival.
Trap, Dubstep, Moombahton
Lots of stuff like Baauer, RL Grime, Excision, Dillon Francis, Bro Safari, Zeds Dead, DJ Snake, Flosstradamus etc. Yeah real hard on the subs. Going into two 4015lf drivers in the modified lower tuning SS15. Had 2 Mackie SRM450s for tops.
Keep in mind this was just in the campgrounds for a commercial festival. We weren't running an actual stage or anything but during thursday night before the festival proper we were DJing and had a good number of people coming through to dance, drink, or just see what the commotion was about. Even with that modest setup we probably still had the most bass out of any campsite and the tops were cruising at moderate level.
Sure as hell beats the other campers who think they're clever bringing PA on a stick out to the campgrounds and turning it up to shrieking levels
Trap, Dubstep, Moombahton
Lots of stuff like Baauer, RL Grime, Excision, Dillon Francis, Bro Safari, Zeds Dead, DJ Snake, Flosstradamus etc. Yeah real hard on the subs. Going into two 4015lf drivers in the modified lower tuning SS15. Had 2 Mackie SRM450s for tops.
Keep in mind this was just in the campgrounds for a commercial festival. We weren't running an actual stage or anything but during thursday night before the festival proper we were DJing and had a good number of people coming through to dance, drink, or just see what the commotion was about. Even with that modest setup we probably still had the most bass out of any campsite and the tops were cruising at moderate level.
Sure as hell beats the other campers who think they're clever bringing PA on a stick out to the campgrounds and turning it up to shrieking levels
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The Honda EU2000i is a good generator, but is only rated at 1600VA continuous. With the type of music you play the NU3000dsp can draw way more power than the generator could produce even without the two SRM450s also pulling several amps of juice.
Art - I really value your opinion, I think you might have more hours in real world experience with sound than I do existing period.
I am going to take your advice and try the NU6000.
The mains will most likely be the EV ETX-15P (unless I can justify the 3-way)
Running with 2 KS subs to start eventually 4 KS.
The goal for us is not Insomniac size commercial martial law rule fests, but intimate magical outdoor events with 300ish people where it's about the quality of the sound, the quality of the DJ's and the overall experience. The last festival I was at was Youtopia and they had some nice smaller sound camps. However the one that was using the F1 dance stacks was playing horrid drum and bass all weekend so never really got to hear it shine. The Ministry of Color stage sounded phenomenal - which it should considering they had flown a smaller line array with a sub woofer cluster in the center for a 150x150' area. That was a fun time. That is not even remotely close to our budget.
Overall, just wanted to thank you guys for sharing your knowledge and experience. It's going to be a looooong road for me to get out of this desk job, but I am not going to stop until we are hosting events that make people really really ******* happy they came.
I am going to take your advice and try the NU6000.
The mains will most likely be the EV ETX-15P (unless I can justify the 3-way)
Running with 2 KS subs to start eventually 4 KS.
The goal for us is not Insomniac size commercial martial law rule fests, but intimate magical outdoor events with 300ish people where it's about the quality of the sound, the quality of the DJ's and the overall experience. The last festival I was at was Youtopia and they had some nice smaller sound camps. However the one that was using the F1 dance stacks was playing horrid drum and bass all weekend so never really got to hear it shine. The Ministry of Color stage sounded phenomenal - which it should considering they had flown a smaller line array with a sub woofer cluster in the center for a 150x150' area. That was a fun time. That is not even remotely close to our budget.
Overall, just wanted to thank you guys for sharing your knowledge and experience. It's going to be a looooong road for me to get out of this desk job, but I am not going to stop until we are hosting events that make people really really ******* happy they came.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/170771-single-sheet-th-challenge-157.html#post3072210
They're built based on this. Definitely changes the aspect ratio and makes them less boxy. By necessity that makes the volume a bit smaller but I've built the two designs and put them side by side and they're nearly the same size.
Its worth noting that the traces you've shown are, IIRC, the 33% duty cycle ones from the often-referenced NU6k amp test.
33% duty cycle is a tough test. Not as bad as a pure sine wave, but still pretty evil. It'd be on the thermal limits of a driver rated for 1200w rms noise (the usual way of rating drivers), on each channel.
So yes, it'll pull 80A peaks, but I'd be worried about your drivers at that point - remember drivers get their thermal ratings on a free-air test. Plenty of excursion and cooling.
Chris