The difference is the E motor has a slightly thicker magnet than the 2225-2235 motor.
Barry.
What I meant was that 2225 and 2235 have the same motor. There is a lot of information in that thread.
Rob, but JBL says "no way" on recone 2225 with 2235 issue, so who is right?
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Where is this found?
The motor and basket are identical. End of story.
Now to use a 2235 where a 2225 is properly employed would be a no-go.
Barry.
Sorry for resurrecting this rather old thread 
.
Is a 2205's motor also the same as the motors in 2225 and 2235, so that I could make a 2235H from it by reconing with a genuine C8R2235 kit?
I've got the chance to get either a 2225H and a 2205H for rather cheap money, and I'd love to build a 4430 clone.
Best regards!
.Is a 2205's motor also the same as the motors in 2225 and 2235, so that I could make a 2235H from it by reconing with a genuine C8R2235 kit?
I've got the chance to get either a 2225H and a 2205H for rather cheap money, and I'd love to build a 4430 clone
.Best regards!
Novice in desperate need for ASAP help
Hi Guys. Total novice here.�� 1) If upgrade to 2235 from 2225, do i also have to change coil or just a cone? 2) Can I use $27.89 aftermarket 2235 cones 15" Speaker Cone JBL 2235H Speaker Parts. | eBay, or should i rather keep original 2225? For a time been will use them to add base to a Coral "Flat 6" full range drivers, but planing further add JBL 2202 (03,04,06?) and eventually upgrade to JBL 4350.
Hi Guys. Total novice here.�� 1) If upgrade to 2235 from 2225, do i also have to change coil or just a cone? 2) Can I use $27.89 aftermarket 2235 cones 15" Speaker Cone JBL 2235H Speaker Parts. | eBay, or should i rather keep original 2225? For a time been will use them to add base to a Coral "Flat 6" full range drivers, but planing further add JBL 2202 (03,04,06?) and eventually upgrade to JBL 4350.
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It's not too clear to me what you're saying. Do you have a JBL 2225H that you want to convert to a 2235H? The empty baskets of both are the same, but the whole cone and voice coil assembly is different. The winding height of a 2225H VC is 0.63", while the 2235H's is 3/4". So you want the complete assembly or recone kit. Note that the genuine JBL C8R2235 is nla since a long time.
Best regards!
Best regards!
Both are rather different drivers (or transducers in JBL's language ). Due to it's much higher Vas and it's much lower fs, the 2235 provides an extended low end in comparison with the 2225, but due to it's bigger cone mass isn't as efficient by far.
Best regards!
Edit: To get a driver similar to the 2235, but with higher efficiency, you might consider a 2235 recone kit in an E130/E140 basket.
). Due to it's much higher Vas and it's much lower fs, the 2235 provides an extended low end in comparison with the 2225, but due to it's bigger cone mass isn't as efficient by far.Best regards!
Edit: To get a driver similar to the 2235, but with higher efficiency, you might consider a 2235 recone kit in an E130/E140 basket.
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In recent years, rebuilds with the genuine cone kits have been intermittently available at Speaker Exchange; they were listed as available this morning.
The JBL 2225H/J and 2235H were concurrent development and their frame/magnet assemblies are interchangeable and have the Symmetrical Field Geometry feature. A 2225 frame can be fitted with the genuine JBL factory 2235 cone kit to create a genuine 2235 woofer or 2234, leaving out the mass ring. The earlier 136H/2231H are also compatible and SFG. I'm not sure about the 135H/2230/H or 2205H being SFG.
There are earlier Alnico-framed versions of some of these woofers: 2205, 135, 136, 2230, 2231. Two other Alnico frames from the MI world are also the same: D130 (all but the very early which have tight gaps) and its later Pro Division equivalent, the 2135. I can't speak to any of the Fender versions. Installing the 2234/5 kit in an Alnico frame is a doubtful proposition in my opinion. These woofers reward adequate power, but voice coils that overhang the gap can demagnetize Alnico if driven hard, and the 2235 v.c. is overhung. As I understand it, it does not take a long wild party; one excessive surge will have the undesirable effect. Greg Timbers has addressed this in a post at Lansing Heritage.
If the ferrite magnets of the MI drivers, E130, E140, are thicker, their magnetic fields will be more intense.
The old 130A/B/C and later equivalent 2220A/B/C and ferrite 2220H/J have different cone geometry. You can make a Frankenwoofer with any 4" voice-coiled cone kit you care to shoehorn in, but there is no way of making a genuine 2235 (or 2225) with these frames.
The LE15A/B, 2215/16 and 2215H are a third, unique family of frames. There is no way of making a genuine 2235 with them.
The frame geometries of K145 and E145 are also different.
In my opinion, the 2235 is still a viable woofer, especially if you can begin with a fresh rebuild.
The JBL 2225H/J and 2235H were concurrent development and their frame/magnet assemblies are interchangeable and have the Symmetrical Field Geometry feature. A 2225 frame can be fitted with the genuine JBL factory 2235 cone kit to create a genuine 2235 woofer or 2234, leaving out the mass ring. The earlier 136H/2231H are also compatible and SFG. I'm not sure about the 135H/2230/H or 2205H being SFG.
There are earlier Alnico-framed versions of some of these woofers: 2205, 135, 136, 2230, 2231. Two other Alnico frames from the MI world are also the same: D130 (all but the very early which have tight gaps) and its later Pro Division equivalent, the 2135. I can't speak to any of the Fender versions. Installing the 2234/5 kit in an Alnico frame is a doubtful proposition in my opinion. These woofers reward adequate power, but voice coils that overhang the gap can demagnetize Alnico if driven hard, and the 2235 v.c. is overhung. As I understand it, it does not take a long wild party; one excessive surge will have the undesirable effect. Greg Timbers has addressed this in a post at Lansing Heritage.
If the ferrite magnets of the MI drivers, E130, E140, are thicker, their magnetic fields will be more intense.
The old 130A/B/C and later equivalent 2220A/B/C and ferrite 2220H/J have different cone geometry. You can make a Frankenwoofer with any 4" voice-coiled cone kit you care to shoehorn in, but there is no way of making a genuine 2235 (or 2225) with these frames.
The LE15A/B, 2215/16 and 2215H are a third, unique family of frames. There is no way of making a genuine 2235 with them.
The frame geometries of K145 and E145 are also different.
In my opinion, the 2235 is still a viable woofer, especially if you can begin with a fresh rebuild.
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I've converted a pair of 2225s to 2235s and there were no issues doing so. The weight ring will need to be salvaged from an old 2235, so you'll need to find that part in another donor unit. I used a strip of lead to do this instead and it worked perfectly. You must use epoxy to secure the weight so it doesn't rattle or loosen from vibration.
"profiguy
Member
Joined 2007I've converted a pair of 2225s to 2235s and there were no issues doing so. The weight ring will need to be salvaged from an old 2235, so you'll need to find that part in another donor unit. I used a strip of lead to do this instead and it worked perfectly. You must use epoxy to secure the weight so it doesn't rattle or loosen from vibration."
Hmmm . . . Maybe not. Genuine JBL factory kits are not sold to the generality, and they would include the correct mass ring. Without those two things, no one can build a 2235 in a 2225 frame.
This is my mea culpa. I have doubts about the listing at Speaker Exchange. Their posting mentions the JBL model number, refers to genuine kits, but also mentions AJ recone kits, an aftermarket source. Maybe it's a copy editing problem; I don't know. So, I'm retracting my statement that they have kits, and basically washing my hands of the matter in its entirety. My apologies. I wish good luck to anyone wanting to put together a system with fresh 2235s, a worthwhile endeavor IMO.
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