Shame you can't scale the speed of sound.
So what you need to do now is redesign the fold to give far more path length.
How are you going to form the missing side?
Dependent on the capabilities of your printer you could get quite radical with the design of this. Even if you can not achieve overhangs you could have curved walls for extra rigidity.
I have had some success with bonding ABS prints with acetone to make bigger components. If you printed the design in 2 or 3 parts bonded together, you would be able to have reinforcing ribs and other features, even with a basic printer.
So what you need to do now is redesign the fold to give far more path length.
How are you going to form the missing side?
Dependent on the capabilities of your printer you could get quite radical with the design of this. Even if you can not achieve overhangs you could have curved walls for extra rigidity.
I have had some success with bonding ABS prints with acetone to make bigger components. If you printed the design in 2 or 3 parts bonded together, you would be able to have reinforcing ribs and other features, even with a basic printer.
Hey Klampy, what's your long term opinion on the JB1500s? Having now owned them for a few years in these boxes are they holding up well?
In this box, do you think they'd make a good general purpose PA bass bin in place of say double 15 or 18" boxes?
Any failed drivers/surrounds etc and how hard to you push them?
Cheers for any input
I've not simmed every 15 but I think the 3015lf is still the best value option. The $75 PA380 "works" but is 1/2 in output if you are apprehensive about your build skills. I went with a cheaper driver for my first build and think it's a good idea when starting out. I did the Keystone and the recommended driver is $400...
Thank you for the input. I'll probably just go for it with the 3015lf then.
Any thoughts on tops(?) That will compliment this sub for use outdoors? I looked at the hs12 info but was looking for options and didn't see much info elsewhere.
Long term I'd like to have 4 subs and 4 tops. Running 1 top per sub spread out in a line (4 positions) for when I just need coverage, or 2 tops with 4 subs for when I'm using them in smaller areas or when sound overall quality is more important.
Thanks
Any thoughts on tops(?) That will compliment this sub for use outdoors? I looked at the hs12 info but was looking for options and didn't see much info elsewhere.
Long term I'd like to have 4 subs and 4 tops. Running 1 top per sub spread out in a line (4 positions) for when I just need coverage, or 2 tops with 4 subs for when I'm using them in smaller areas or when sound overall quality is more important.
Thanks
Hopefully others will join in and offer their professional opinion (I no longer gig) but I think tops are hard to beat from commercial offerings. That said, Art Welter's Syntripp is what I recommend for DIY. Complex build but worth it. In addition, my experience was that I always needed more subs than tops. Basically 2:1. 4 subs to 2 tops, maybe even 3:1 if EDM type stuff. All depends on the event though.
I'm curious as to how those Kappalites hold up as well. I'm looking very closely at the 12" version for another project that I may start this summer.
I looked at the 4015lf. I remember reading a post somewhere way back in the thread about it being more robust albeit heavier. Doesn't the 4015lf require much more power to drive?
I'm in the the phase of trying to figure out the cost effectiveness of building vs buying tops. I'm starting to see it may be better just to buy them. The subs however seem very worth the effort unless I'm dumber than I thought. Just starting to learn about this stuff.
I don't have the sims available, but I believe the sensitivity was very similar between the two. If anything the 3015lf would be slightly more efficient, but I don't think it's by much.
That said, if you're running close too max power on the Kappalite (450w), you could see up to 2db of power compression where the 4015lf will have almost no compression. That will eliminate any efficiency advantage.
I tend to be really hard on the subs I own, so that's why I would go that route. If you are more likely to have the subs running at relaxed power levels, the 3015lf might be just perfect.
As for the tops, I think in most cases buying used gear is the best route. It takes a lot of know-how to come out ahead with DIY, and there are a lot of hidden costs. Especially if you put a monetary value on your time invested, it's hard to beat the value of good used gear.
That said, if you're running close too max power on the Kappalite (450w), you could see up to 2db of power compression where the 4015lf will have almost no compression. That will eliminate any efficiency advantage.
I tend to be really hard on the subs I own, so that's why I would go that route. If you are more likely to have the subs running at relaxed power levels, the 3015lf might be just perfect.
As for the tops, I think in most cases buying used gear is the best route. It takes a lot of know-how to come out ahead with DIY, and there are a lot of hidden costs. Especially if you put a monetary value on your time invested, it's hard to beat the value of good used gear.
IMO if you have to run the subs hard, then it's a sign that you need more subs
. Of course space limitations may apply...
Or price limitations. Or weight limitations. Or all of the above.IMO if you have to run the subs hard, then it's a sign that you need more subs
Of course space limitations may apply...
There's nothing wrong about running subs hard. I know what my equipment can do and I make full use of its capabilities.
Trouble only comes when you ask too much of your gear.
Hi Djim,
And greetings! to all the diyaudio members.
I would like to know if the hornresp you posted at #1579 is based on the original SS15 specs?
I tried to sim the PD.1852 and the response seemed good.
Will the 15mm birch ply manage to handle the 18" driver or best to use 18mm birch plywood?
And greetings! to all the diyaudio members.
I would like to know if the hornresp you posted at #1579 is based on the original SS15 specs?
I tried to sim the PD.1852 and the response seemed good.
Will the 15mm birch ply manage to handle the 18" driver or best to use 18mm birch plywood?
15mm birch ply is strong.
The weak links are the joints.
Design your joints to be robust and airtight.
15mm has half the stiffness of 18mm (stiffness varies with the fourth power of thickness ratio - or is it the third power?).
Thus you need to design in sufficient bracing to reduce flexure.
The weak links are the joints.
Design your joints to be robust and airtight.
15mm has half the stiffness of 18mm (stiffness varies with the fourth power of thickness ratio - or is it the third power?).
Thus you need to design in sufficient bracing to reduce flexure.
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Hi Ikabod88,
The sim from Post#1579 is from tb46 (March 2011) and is accurate. It only hasn’t included the volume inside the cone and driver cut-out (Vtc/Atc).
The SS15 is designed for 15" drivers and I'm curious how you are going to make an 18” driver fit in that enclosure?! Also, the SS15 is designed for drivers with a medium to low motor strength and the PD.1852 is an outstanding driver but with a very strong motor (BL=30Tm and Rme=173.7 N*s/m). Probably a perfect fit for a Xoc1 TH18 or weltersys Keystone for instance.
I'm not sure if it makes sense to safe weight by using thinner 15mm panels when choosing one of the heaviest drivers around, with its 23.8 Kg (52.47 lb). I would not recommend 15mm panels for anything with an output above 125 dB anyway.
Regards,
Djim
The sim from Post#1579 is from tb46 (March 2011) and is accurate. It only hasn’t included the volume inside the cone and driver cut-out (Vtc/Atc).
The SS15 is designed for 15" drivers and I'm curious how you are going to make an 18” driver fit in that enclosure?! Also, the SS15 is designed for drivers with a medium to low motor strength and the PD.1852 is an outstanding driver but with a very strong motor (BL=30Tm and Rme=173.7 N*s/m). Probably a perfect fit for a Xoc1 TH18 or weltersys Keystone for instance.
I'm not sure if it makes sense to safe weight by using thinner 15mm panels when choosing one of the heaviest drivers around, with its 23.8 Kg (52.47 lb). I would not recommend 15mm panels for anything with an output above 125 dB anyway.
Regards,
Djim
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Hi Djim,
Yeah, I just checked the SS15s dimension and there is no way an 18" will fit in.
I"ve seen the SPL response of Xoc1 TH18 for PD.1852 on another forum and its quite nice as well.
However, due to size limitations, I'm reverting back to THAM18, as planned.
Thanks a lot, Djim and to the diyaudio community.
Yeah, I just checked the SS15s dimension and there is no way an 18" will fit in.
I"ve seen the SPL response of Xoc1 TH18 for PD.1852 on another forum and its quite nice as well.
However, due to size limitations, I'm reverting back to THAM18, as planned.
Thanks a lot, Djim and to the diyaudio community.
I am having troubles drawing this in sketchup. I think I have an idea on how to make cornered edges in the back both top and bottom. The only problem is that I can't find a detailed drawing of this design. I think it's what people refer to as SS15 V2.
Really need it. I have an upcoming project of building 8 of these
SO STOKED!
Really need it. I have an upcoming project of building 8 of these
SO STOKED!