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#1 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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I sketched two designs for isolating a woofer from it's dipole baffle. The driver would be clamped by its magnet using a sorbothane insulator. The clamp would be isolated from its base using rubber motor mounts. The base would be made of a 12" x 12" flagstone paver, selected for its mass as well as aesthetics. If necessary, the paver would sit on sorbothane feet for further isolation.
The woofer would be isolated from the baffle which would contain a small full range driver and both would be freestanding. The front of the woofer's rubber mounting ring would be placed in close proximity to the back of the baffle, but not touching. My goal is to severely decrease the vibration coming from a woofer that has high xmax, high qts and high moving mass (close to 2 grams). I have experience in eliminatng vibration and noise transmission from small motors and pumps by building custom isolation mounts. Just curious what obstacles I might run into in attempting to do the same for drivers. |
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#2 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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#3 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Quote:
You will most probably improve your sound, because the baffle will be excited less from the driver from lower midrange on upwards. The resonant frequency of the driver/mounting should be at the bottom end of the drivers frequency range or below. Sufficient damping is required, which should often be OK with rubber bumbers not too hard. BTW. What happened to your " OB rear wave cancellation" technique ? Any new solutions ? Kind Regards |
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#4 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Hi Oliver,
Good to hear from you. With regard to the rear wave cancellation, I ended up using some acoustistuff in a nylon net. It hangs off the rear baffle and loosely covers the back of the full range driver. I've listened for hours with and without the rear "muffler" and decided I like it better with. Thanks for your help with that one. The only porous metal I had access to was some steel wool ![]() With regard to the magnet mounting, my plan was to only suspend the driver from it's magnet. Alternatively I could fasten one or more of the drivers mounting holes to the mass loaded bass as well. Can you speculate on whetehr that might add or detract from vibration damping? |
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#5 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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From my gut feeling i would prefer magnet mounting, since
the motor is where the forces originate. Using the driver mounting holes there may be more forces left, which act upon the basket. And most baskets are not perfectly "dead" acoustically. Kind Regards Oliver |
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#6 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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That makes sense to me as well. In your Dipole 08 design, how does the stone slab interact with the driver's magnet cover. I imagine you are using something like a rubber gasket, or if your speakers dont attach to the baffle directly, was the slab cemented to the magnet cover? That's a very interesting design btw.
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#7 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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The magnets are glued to the stone using
a very good 2 component epoxy mixed from experience to stay a bit flexbile for reasons of durability. (See below) Stone "spine" and baffle are both sandwiches with a constraint layer of dampening sealant inbetween. (Needed weeks to harden ...) Spine: Marble, Sealant, Marble Baffle: HPL, Sealant, HPL One of the baffle layers is also attached to the baskets using gaskets and soft grummets. Kind Regards Last edited by LineArray; 6th July 2010 at 06:29 PM. |
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#8 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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We are definately on the same page. Makes perfect sense. Now that you have lived with your design for some time, is there any part of the construction technique you would have done differently? Did you think about clamping the drivers under force instead of your layered sealant approach? If the "clamp" was used to exert force on the drivers frame in more than one direction, you may effectively reduce basket resonances without having to add mass to the driver, etc.
I am very pleased with the 10" woofers I am using, with an xmax of 13mm and a QTS of .62. They really lend themselves well to dipoles. Since they are designed as automotive subwoofers, and have a steel frame, they are not the quietest choice for dipoles... but not horrible either. If I can dampen just a little bit of their resonant energy, I will be happy. |
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#9 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I thought about clamping baskets to the spine
in the beginning, but decided to glue because it is very slim, there are no further objects in the rear way and no objects visible. Due to maintenance, clamping might be more practical indeed. But i think i could even manage to change a driver if it was broken ... (No please ...) I would do some improvements, but that's more due to technical detail (sizing, crossover network). The overall construction is OK and also survived some transports. I do not know if i made the baffle from HPL the next time. But i would not want the speaker to look the same, if i was to build another offspring of that, that would be boring. Maybe i would go into the aerospace design direction using concrete for the spine ... Many people like the real object, although it is rather technical looking and not very "integral" from design. Most women like it although i thought it would be rather a men's object. Kind Regards |
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#10 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Quote:
![]() Thanks again for your help. You are a wealth of information in a fairly obscure design concept! |
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