I have Infinity BU-1 subwoofer. This is US version that runs on 110V. In the near future, I will be moving back to Europe and would like to take the subwoofer with me. I have opened the back panel hoping that I will find dual primaries so I can just rewire it for 220V. Unfortunately, there are only two wires going into the trafo. So I need to find a replacement. I have measured secondaries and I have three wires (red, white, white). The voltage is:
red (1) ------
white (2) ----
white (3) ----
red (1) - white (2): 22.5V
white (2) - white (3): 23V
red (1) - white (3): 46V
That's without any load. Am I correct that this is center tap trafo? Should the replacement be 24V-0-24V or 46V-0-46V? The subwoofer is labeled 110V 60Hz 60W.
Thanks.
red (1) ------
white (2) ----
white (3) ----
red (1) - white (2): 22.5V
white (2) - white (3): 23V
red (1) - white (3): 46V
That's without any load. Am I correct that this is center tap trafo? Should the replacement be 24V-0-24V or 46V-0-46V? The subwoofer is labeled 110V 60Hz 60W.
Thanks.
Are you sure that is correct? I would expect red to either of the whites to be 23ish and white to white to be 46V. . . If it is indeed CT, and that would make it 23-0-23. To what do the wires connect? If you can find the diode bridge, it will be obvious which is the CT and which are the legs. But, measure it loaded (connected, with the amp running), as it may be considerably different. Also, measure the resistance of across the secondary, then you can get some idea of VA (and see if it jives with 60W in). And, measure the size. All in all, this might be a question better put to the guys in the solid state forum. Be careful!
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Thanks for the reply. I just now had the chance to again take the subwoofer apart. The wires in my original post are correct. Somehow the center wire from trafo is white and two outer wires are red and white. Voltages again are correct.
I have RBV-401 diode bridge. The wires are connected as follows:
+
~ white (3)
~ red (1)
-
white (2) is connected to the big capacitors. Looks like + and - do not get wires connected from the trafo (though it is really hard to see since there are two boards next to each other.
The trafo has the following numbers on it:
35900836
TKP0228-1094
DK 491
Fuse for it is 2A 250V.
Here are couple of pictures:
pic1
pic2
pic3
pic4
pic5
I have RBV-401 diode bridge. The wires are connected as follows:
+
~ white (3)
~ red (1)
-
white (2) is connected to the big capacitors. Looks like + and - do not get wires connected from the trafo (though it is really hard to see since there are two boards next to each other.
The trafo has the following numbers on it:
35900836
TKP0228-1094
DK 491
Fuse for it is 2A 250V.
Here are couple of pictures:
pic1
pic2
pic3
pic4
pic5
What are the resistances between the secondary wires when it is not connected (or plugged in)? Did you measure it loaded? That is really the voltage that matters. One other thought would be to buy a step down (240-120V) transformer of suitable size, and plug the whole thing into it. You've got to buy iron anyway, and you'd then preserve the amp in stock form. Anybody want to move this thread to SS?
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Haven't had a chance to check the resistance. I have asked Infinity for the specs but they want me to buy service manual for $20. We are talking about used subwoofer that I got for $40 so spending that kind of money on it besides new trafo is not something I will consider. So I went on-line and found free service manual. Here is the section for power supply:
Power Schematic for BU-1
Looks like the trafo is 28-0-28. I think the only problem is that they have updated the subwoofer at some point. Mine is rated at 110V 60Hz 60W and the one from schematic (same model) is rated at 110V 60Hz 130W. Both models have the same nominal power (50W) and same subwoofer size (8").
I will check the resistance tonight.
Power Schematic for BU-1
Looks like the trafo is 28-0-28. I think the only problem is that they have updated the subwoofer at some point. Mine is rated at 110V 60Hz 60W and the one from schematic (same model) is rated at 110V 60Hz 130W. Both models have the same nominal power (50W) and same subwoofer size (8").
I will check the resistance tonight.
I would interpret that as a 28VCT transformer, or 14-0-14. That would jive better with your unloaded measurements. Do measure it loaded, and then you'll know. You can put your meter on the legs of the diodes to figure it out.
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
Hi folks, I am in the same situation as maurycy.
I have an Infinity PS212, and I am leaving the US to 230V/50hz land. I opened my sub and found the labeling on the transformer says 120V/60hz. Looked around for jumpers that could be used to switch voltage but didn't find any.
My first question is whether I can just run it with a step down converter. That will be giving it 120V at 50hz, not 60hz. Will that work? I think the frequency will have an impact on the capacitors. Going lower should be worse for the capacitors, right?
If not, I wonder if it's possible to find a replacement transformer. The transformer brand is "Transtec", the part number is TT0930505260-E, and this is exactly what is written on it:
I/P: 120V AC 60Hz BLK-WHT
O/P: 55V-22V-0-22V-55V
RED-YEL-BLK-YEL-RED
VI. 130Deg. C Thermal Cutoff
I found a copy of the service manual here (have to download two .tar file): Infinity PS212 Service Manual free download,schematics,datasheets,eeprom bins,pcb,repair info for test equipment and electronics
I looked online for toroidal transformers and found ones that have 55V secondary voltage, but couldn't find any that have two different secondary voltages like the one in this sub (it says 55-22-0-22-55).
Schematics show the output of the transformer go to a 5-pin switch.
Contacted Infinity but haven't heard anything from them.
I have an Infinity PS212, and I am leaving the US to 230V/50hz land. I opened my sub and found the labeling on the transformer says 120V/60hz. Looked around for jumpers that could be used to switch voltage but didn't find any.
My first question is whether I can just run it with a step down converter. That will be giving it 120V at 50hz, not 60hz. Will that work? I think the frequency will have an impact on the capacitors. Going lower should be worse for the capacitors, right?
If not, I wonder if it's possible to find a replacement transformer. The transformer brand is "Transtec", the part number is TT0930505260-E, and this is exactly what is written on it:
I/P: 120V AC 60Hz BLK-WHT
O/P: 55V-22V-0-22V-55V
RED-YEL-BLK-YEL-RED
VI. 130Deg. C Thermal Cutoff
I found a copy of the service manual here (have to download two .tar file): Infinity PS212 Service Manual free download,schematics,datasheets,eeprom bins,pcb,repair info for test equipment and electronics
I looked online for toroidal transformers and found ones that have 55V secondary voltage, but couldn't find any that have two different secondary voltages like the one in this sub (it says 55-22-0-22-55).
Schematics show the output of the transformer go to a 5-pin switch.
Contacted Infinity but haven't heard anything from them.
do you have this transformer replacement for JBL E250P?: TT0930505260-E / 120V
could you give me your email in a direct msg so I can contact you?
thnks
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.