hey guys i have a tube 30 folded horn for djing and it sounds great!! so i have decided to build a an auto tuba. (designs from billfitzmaurice) my only delema is i ahve a eminence s2010 10" woofer which is just lieing around and i want to put in the auto tuba. but the t&s specs on the driver is way to large compared the suggested t&s specs.
so my question is what would happen if i put that driver in the auto tuba? view auto tuba.. www.billfitzmaurice.net
cheers
so my question is what would happen if i put that driver in the auto tuba? view auto tuba.. www.billfitzmaurice.net
cheers
ye but its a 16" tuba 30... i had it in on e of those befor.. um.... well since its pro audio n i just have it lieing around would it be suited for a bandpass? or something?? or for what i want, extremeley loud bass that shakes the car n peoples bones (teen agers car) would it just be better to buy a 12" sub n make a ported or banpass box??
(teen agers car) would it just be better to buy a 12" sub n make a ported or banpass box??
I looked at some of the various alignments for the 2010.
None give ( what I consider ) suitable low end performance to be called a subwoofer.
In the BF horn designs that use them, the low end performance is optimized for live performance ( 50Hz and up ).
I have noticed that some car sound guys, will build a small sealed box with a large woofer in it, tuned to give a slow F3 rolloff ( approx 60 - 80 ) and let the "cabin gain" from a car fill in the bottom octaves.
Others take different approaches.
You could make on of the smallest BF T39's ( If it would fit ).
I personally would NOT base a car sub around this 10.
Even though it is used in the smaller BF horns, Eminence's primary market for the S2010 is for 2 & 4 ( 10 ) bass guitar cabs.
None give ( what I consider ) suitable low end performance to be called a subwoofer.
In the BF horn designs that use them, the low end performance is optimized for live performance ( 50Hz and up ).
I have noticed that some car sound guys, will build a small sealed box with a large woofer in it, tuned to give a slow F3 rolloff ( approx 60 - 80 ) and let the "cabin gain" from a car fill in the bottom octaves.
Others take different approaches.
You could make on of the smallest BF T39's ( If it would fit ).
I personally would NOT base a car sub around this 10.
Even though it is used in the smaller BF horns, Eminence's primary market for the S2010 is for 2 & 4 ( 10 ) bass guitar cabs.
ok awesome... well then here comes the big question what should i put in it?? im obviously going to look at buying a 12 inch woofer but my only real decision i have to make is what woofer ( im sur i could decide) and weather i should make it ported or bandpass(dats were i neeed your help),, so what u guys think ported or bandpass 12"...... must be louder than my sisters 1000 watt 12" ported jbl!!
cheers guys
what should i put in it?? im obviously going to look at buying a 12 inch woofer but my only real decision i have to make is what woofer ( im sur i could decide) and weather i should make it ported or bandpass(dats were i neeed your help),, so what u guys think ported or bandpass 12"...... must be louder than my sisters 1000 watt 12" ported jbl!!cheers guys
So the truth comes out... It's an SPL race with your sister.
No idea how much SPL you sister's JBL provides.
I would not try to win this by brute force with a similar 12 in a BR cab.
From my experience with Bandpass Boxes: They require more precise tuning over a simply BR box. Tuning by ear is a lot more difficult and the best results would be obtained by running impedance sweeps, which most can't do.
I would take a look at what Davygrvy did with the AT ( w the HL10C).
Or what JBell did with 2 MCM 8's ( or Tang Band ) in an extended folded horn.
These designs will give you more SPL out for watt in.
No idea how much SPL you sister's JBL provides.
I would not try to win this by brute force with a similar 12 in a BR cab.
From my experience with Bandpass Boxes: They require more precise tuning over a simply BR box. Tuning by ear is a lot more difficult and the best results would be obtained by running impedance sweeps, which most can't do.
I would take a look at what Davygrvy did with the AT ( w the HL10C).
Or what JBell did with 2 MCM 8's ( or Tang Band ) in an extended folded horn.
These designs will give you more SPL out for watt in.
americanaki said:hey guys i have a tube 30 folded horn for djing and it sounds great!! so i have decided to build a an auto tuba. (designs from billfitzmaurice) my only delema is i ahve a eminence s2010 10" woofer which is just lieing around and i want to put in the auto tuba. but the t&s specs on the driver is way to large compared the suggested t&s specs.
so my question is what would happen if i put that driver in the auto tuba? view auto tuba.. www.billfitzmaurice.net
cheers
I built a clone of the autotuba, and used it in my Accord for a while. It's a fun box. It gets stupid loud, and it's cheap.
The problem with using the Eminence woofer is that the SD (aka cone area) is too large.
So yeah, the 10" won't work. You'd have to make the box bigger, and it's already quite large.
IMHO, these are a few options for LOUD bass in a car:
#1 - The easiest option is to use the entire trunk as an enclosure (aka "infinite baffle.") If you go this route YOU MUST NOT use car audio woofers. Car audio woofers are optimized for small enclosures, and they trade efficiency for a small box size. If you go with an infinite baffle, you should look at prosound 12s or 15s with a high QTS value and a high VAS. A B&C 15TBX100 is a good example, but maybe overkill (it's expensive.)
#2 - If you don't go infinite baffle, just build a bandpass. It offers higher efficiency than a sealed box, and lower 2nd and 3rd harmonic distortion than a vented box. If you go this route, bring a BIG amplifier, because it wont be as efficient as option 1.
I've tried horns in cars, bandpass, vented, sealed, IB, etc...
If it were my money, I'd buy the biggest amp I could afford and build a bandpass sub.
Check out some of my posts on audiogroupforum, I use the moniker "majestik6"
hey guys i have decided i realy wanna make this auto tuba... just because i love making stuff wid dad! i projects are never ending.. um... ive looekd at importing all these drivers and seriously its not worth it.. 2 tang badn 8 " would cost me us$270 with shipping = a massive 408 aussie dollars hmm... due to the financial crisis its killing me! n plus shipping on these babies cause der so heavy is a fortune to aus. .. umm.. but....
ive heard that the jbl gto 1014 is a suitable driver and they are available in aus :d aaaannnndddd i get jbl's at a good price.. soooo i was wondering if any oen could juts verify that for me?.. that the jbl gto 1014 is a suitable driver? cheers guys uve all been heaps of help 
ive heard that the jbl gto 1014 is a suitable driver and they are available in aus :d aaaannnndddd i get jbl's at a good price
.. soooo i was wondering if any oen could juts verify that for me?.. that the jbl gto 1014 is a suitable driver? cheers guys uve all been heaps of help Can you get other JBL drivers at "a good price"?
Unfortunately I have not found "official JBL" T/S specs for the 1014.
That bothers: I know JBL is not above putting it's name on products that are of lesser quality ( as opposed to their pro sound products ).
I have seen some home theater speakers with the JBL name on it that were frankly - junk.
It's unfortunate that you are locked into the 1014 driver because of price.
It has a 88 db output for 1 watt.
If you want it loud ( as opposed to low ), use JBL Pro woofers.
A single 2206 is about 7db louder at 8 ohms - a pair would be close to 12 db louder for the same watt.
A pair of 2206 would be a 4 ohm load, would occupy 3 - 4 cu ft; have an F3 in the low 50's, with over 100db for 1 watt in.
Cabin gain would take care of the bottom octave.
However even with a good price; these drivers are beyond your budget.
FYI, you can find them here: http://www.jbl.com/car/product_support/default.aspx?Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA
GM
GM
http://jbl.com/car/products/product...age=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA&cat=SUB&ser=GTS
Well, if you want something close to T18 or AT size for your JBL, here you go.
You need a 5mh inductor to flatten response a little.
If you look at the 2pi comparison to JBL's out of car response, and then factor in their average in car response, this box should get you 117db@40hz@2.83volts.
Which should make for an ear shattering 137db at 100watts.
This should outgun your sister's car.
hope that helps.
Well, if you want something close to T18 or AT size for your JBL, here you go.
You need a 5mh inductor to flatten response a little.
If you look at the 2pi comparison to JBL's out of car response, and then factor in their average in car response, this box should get you 117db@40hz@2.83volts.
Which should make for an ear shattering 137db at 100watts.
This should outgun your sister's car.
hope that helps.
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americanaki said:hey guys i have decided i realy wanna make this auto tuba... just because i love making stuff wid dad! i projects are never ending.. um... ive looekd at importing all these drivers and seriously its not worth it.. 2 tang badn 8 " would cost me us$270 with shipping = a massive 408 aussie dollars hmm... due to the financial crisis its killing me! n plus shipping on these babies cause der so heavy is a fortune to aus. .. umm.. but....
ive heard that the jbl gto 1014 is a suitable driver and they are available in aus :d aaaannnndddd i get jbl's at a good price
I honestly believe you will get more output from a pair of prosound 12s or 15s in an infinite baffle. If you shop carefully, you can find ones that will get you an efficiency of 95-100db.
But...
You want to do a horn. If that is the case, at least do a tapped horn. A tapped horn will play substantially lower than a front loaded horn.
I've made an auto tuba clone, it's a fun project, but a tapped horn just gives you a lot more 'ooomph' down low. A LOT.
I think Jim just gave you a head start...
Go to
http://www.cowanaudio.com/
Mr Cowen is also a forum member...
I guarantee that if you search "Tapped Horn" on this forum you will find an enormous amount.
There is a Honresp Wiki on this site.
I don't know if someone has already done something with the 1014.
You might have to Do It Yourself
Once again, if you are willing to get other drivers...
For instance - If you get a couple of MCM 8's sent to you, Jim already has a plan that you could probably fit in your ride.
( They are only $25ea in the US on sale )
the reason why I didn't suggest a tapped horn, is because a 1014 doesn't model well in a TH. It actually doesn't look fantastic in a FLH either, but it's MUCH better than this......
and besides, once you get to 40hz being in the 140db range with cabin gain... how much extra does a person need?
and besides, once you get to 40hz being in the 140db range with cabin gain... how much extra does a person need?
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the 1014 was just a driver some one suggested to put into a auto tuba.. i can get other drivers.. jbl being assiest for me since im in aus.. i been looking at tapped horns and they seem like alot of mucking aroudn to make as i cant find just a normal set of instructions i cna follow liek the wonderfull instructions from bill fitz maurice .. um so that being said should i still continue with the auto tuba? would that be enough for me??
.. um so that being said should i still continue with the auto tuba? would that be enough for me??autotuba didn't model very well in hornresp with the 1014. The T18 path with an extra wrap actually fared better, but it's design won't fit your 1014.
If you are set on a horn with a 1014, your best bet is to take the hornresp parameters I posted, and build you a custom cabinet, using a 5mh inductor.
you actually get 12db over a sealed cabinet at 40hz, (like having 4 drivers, driven at the same voltage, vs 1 driver)
IF you are not comfortable designing your own horn to fit the drivers you have available to you... the JBL link posted has sealed, ported, and bandpass enclosures already designed by JBL, and response graphs to know what to expect out and in car.
If you are set on a horn with a 1014, your best bet is to take the hornresp parameters I posted, and build you a custom cabinet, using a 5mh inductor.
you actually get 12db over a sealed cabinet at 40hz, (like having 4 drivers, driven at the same voltage, vs 1 driver)
IF you are not comfortable designing your own horn to fit the drivers you have available to you... the JBL link posted has sealed, ported, and bandpass enclosures already designed by JBL, and response graphs to know what to expect out and in car.
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