Hi All,
After much thought I've decided to use the following for my first subwoofer:
Peerless 830844 12" XXLS (4ohm)
Peerless 830548 Passive Radiator
Dayton HPSA1000 Plate Amplifier (500/8ohm, 1000/4ohm)
Cost: $950 AUD plus wood and finishing.
The box volume is 1.5 cubic feet (43L),
External dimensions: 16x16x16" (40.5x40.5x40.5cm)
Internal dimensions: 14x1414" (35x35x35cm)
I'm using this design from Solen as a template:
Sample Solen Design
According to the Solen Design it will go down to 18hz and produce 122db at 25hz, this was based on a 240/8ohm, 370/4ohm amplifier, I'm hoping to get better results with triple the power in 4ohms.
I'm going to finish the box in Piano Black.
What you guys think?
After much thought I've decided to use the following for my first subwoofer:
Peerless 830844 12" XXLS (4ohm)
Peerless 830548 Passive Radiator
Dayton HPSA1000 Plate Amplifier (500/8ohm, 1000/4ohm)
Cost: $950 AUD plus wood and finishing.
The box volume is 1.5 cubic feet (43L),
External dimensions: 16x16x16" (40.5x40.5x40.5cm)
Internal dimensions: 14x1414" (35x35x35cm)
I'm using this design from Solen as a template:
Sample Solen Design
According to the Solen Design it will go down to 18hz and produce 122db at 25hz, this was based on a 240/8ohm, 370/4ohm amplifier, I'm hoping to get better results with triple the power in 4ohms.
I'm going to finish the box in Piano Black.
What you guys think?
Hi,
Have you put the figures into a modelling program, like Unibox?
There you will get an idea of excursion limited SPL, and power requirements needed to reach that limit, and you can compare between different box alignments.
Where will you be getting the Dayton amp from?
An alternative is the O-Audio 500W, with some nice features such as parametric EQ.
best regards,
Thanh.
Have you put the figures into a modelling program, like Unibox?
There you will get an idea of excursion limited SPL, and power requirements needed to reach that limit, and you can compare between different box alignments.
Where will you be getting the Dayton amp from?
An alternative is the O-Audio 500W, with some nice features such as parametric EQ.
best regards,
Thanh.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm not sure I have done it correctly though, I have attached the unibox file:
UniBox file
I have recently built a sub with Peerless 830844 with PR in a 45liter box.
At the moment I use two LM3886 gainclone monoblocks bridged to power the sub (around 150 watts). The sub is now a little underpowered, but I think that anything more than 350-400W would be an overkill because even with a small amount of power I'm using it can still make a lot of cone movement and decent clean output.
My Peerless-based sub:
At the moment I use two LM3886 gainclone monoblocks bridged to power the sub (around 150 watts). The sub is now a little underpowered, but I think that anything more than 350-400W would be an overkill because even with a small amount of power I'm using it can still make a lot of cone movement and decent clean output.
My Peerless-based sub:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I use it for both !
I haven't done any measurements yet, but the sub is very musical, integrates easy because of very low distortion (now it is placed right by my legs, but I can't 'hear' him, the bass I hear is coming only from the mains), and can reach the lowest octave with no problem.
I have first made a sub as a low Q closed box with only 830844 on front baffle and with Linkwitz transformer in the preamp. My room is relatively small and I had problems with integration. I couldn't hear any sub bass on the place I sit regardless on where I placed the sub, but the upper bass was perfectly clean and tight. Then I turned the sub downwards to the floor and realised that my sub has become a beast that shakes the tiles in my bathroom when I watch The Fifth Element, but has lost some of the musicality and tightness when I listen to music. So I ordered myself a Passive Radiator and mounted it on the bottom side of the box. Now I have the best of both worlds, and the sensitivity has also increased.
If you want to increase maximum output from one driver, I would suggest using 2 passive radiators instead of one because PR runs out of excursion much before the active driver does.
I haven't done any measurements yet, but the sub is very musical, integrates easy because of very low distortion (now it is placed right by my legs, but I can't 'hear' him, the bass I hear is coming only from the mains), and can reach the lowest octave with no problem.
I have first made a sub as a low Q closed box with only 830844 on front baffle and with Linkwitz transformer in the preamp. My room is relatively small and I had problems with integration. I couldn't hear any sub bass on the place I sit regardless on where I placed the sub, but the upper bass was perfectly clean and tight. Then I turned the sub downwards to the floor and realised that my sub has become a beast that shakes the tiles in my bathroom when I watch The Fifth Element, but has lost some of the musicality and tightness when I listen to music. So I ordered myself a Passive Radiator and mounted it on the bottom side of the box. Now I have the best of both worlds, and the sensitivity has also increased.
If you want to increase maximum output from one driver, I would suggest using 2 passive radiators instead of one because PR runs out of excursion much before the active driver does.
For 2 PR's and the same frequency response as with one PR in 42liter box WinIsd says that you would have to use 250grams of added mass to PR cones.
A pair of 10" PR's would be also a good choice. 2 of them don't need any added mass to cones, they are cheaper that a pair of 12", and give about 3dB of headroom compared to one 12"PR.
A pair of 10" PR's would be also a good choice. 2 of them don't need any added mass to cones, they are cheaper that a pair of 12", and give about 3dB of headroom compared to one 12"PR.
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