Hi all.
After months of waiting i finnally ordered my TC Sounsd TC 2000 sub, and it arrived at my place last week. soon ill begin the construction of a 2cu. ft sealed box, using 32mm MDF and bracing te box aswell.
ill be powering the sub using two ZapPulse 2.23SE amps, one per voice coil, or bridge them for a higher load (VC's in series), they'll be running on just about 80 volts DC from a 1.5Kva transformer.
so i have the amplification sorted, i need to move on to filtering and boosting, and this is where i need help.
so my main goal is to have flat response down to 30Hz, and achive that by using LT. ill have a high pass set at about 20-25Hz, a verible low pass 60-160Hz.
But i would also like to add something else, ESP's P84, to make small corrections that the accustics in my room my cause.
My first question is can i use the LT with P84, and the second question is, in what order must each part of the filtering/EQing be? (E.g. LP->LT->HP->EQ?)
Thanks,
David Resnik
After months of waiting i finnally ordered my TC Sounsd TC 2000 sub, and it arrived at my place last week. soon ill begin the construction of a 2cu. ft sealed box, using 32mm MDF and bracing te box aswell.
ill be powering the sub using two ZapPulse 2.23SE amps, one per voice coil, or bridge them for a higher load (VC's in series), they'll be running on just about 80 volts DC from a 1.5Kva transformer.
so i have the amplification sorted, i need to move on to filtering and boosting, and this is where i need help.
so my main goal is to have flat response down to 30Hz, and achive that by using LT. ill have a high pass set at about 20-25Hz, a verible low pass 60-160Hz.
But i would also like to add something else, ESP's P84, to make small corrections that the accustics in my room my cause.
My first question is can i use the LT with P84, and the second question is, in what order must each part of the filtering/EQing be? (E.g. LP->LT->HP->EQ?)
Thanks,
David Resnik
Yes you can use both EQs, the order doesn't really matter. Maybe the parametric after the LT as I guess you would tend to only cut with that, so you would get better SNR that way round.
I would strongly urge you to wire the amps bridged for that level of power.
I made a sub using ZAPpulse 2.3SE and it's a great sounding amp.
I would strongly urge you to wire the amps bridged for that level of power.
I made a sub using ZAPpulse 2.3SE and it's a great sounding amp.
alrighty, thatnks for clearing that up! my second question now, and it is somthing that is bothering me, from the top of the basket, down till the spider, i have an opening of about 13cm width x 2.5cm High. this opening is sitting at a slight angle. now i want to use 32mm MDF, that means that these open areas will be almost blocked my the wood, only to be slightly open due to the angle of the basket, should it make a diffrence in performance? ill add a pic to show you what i am talking about.
Thanks,
David Resnik
Thanks,
David Resnik
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Depending on the desired target fc and Q, the LT can have very high amplification factor towards DC and the LT might be overloaded with a high input signal at very low frequencies.
For this reason I´d put the HP in front of the LT.
The LP I`d place at the output to cut down noise from all the previous stages.
The order of the circuits inbetween doesn`t really matter IMO.
No doubt, if the driver can "breath" through only small "slots" between driver frame and enclosure this might impair performance.
As I see it the only solution would be to make the opening in the enclosure conical. You could make it somewhat less conical where are the bars of the driver frame, respectively where are the holes for the mounting screws (I assume they are where the bars are).
Otherwise in turn You might run into the problem that You can`t tighten the srews well as there is missing "flesh" in the MDF.
yeah i could do that, and just leave some "flesh" where the screw holes are (8 screws, 4 bars, 4 of the srews are centered at the bars, others are inbetween) wich i think might help, ill also send TC Sounds an email regarding this issue.
thank you very much for the help and info. im only 17 years old, my first high priced, real high performance sub. last one was a car sub with a diy amp, sold it for something more serious!
Thnaks,
David Resnik
thank you very much for the help and info. im only 17 years old, my first high priced, real high performance sub. last one was a car sub with a diy amp, sold it for something more serious!
Thnaks,
David Resnik
It doesn't matter if they stick out into the cutout a bit, several subs I have made they do that. I have bent/broken one leg off each t-nut sometimes as well so that I can make that one the overhanging one and get three good holds with the other three. If you don't remove the fourth leg it can make it hard to get it on neatly.
Make sure you use some glue to hold the t-nut in place, and make sure you clean/degrease it before putting glue on.
Alternatively get Vikash to send you some of his fasteners www.madaboutsound.com
Make sure you use some glue to hold the t-nut in place, and make sure you clean/degrease it before putting glue on.
Alternatively get Vikash to send you some of his fasteners www.madaboutsound.com
The trouble with internally mounted drivers is you need to make a removable panel to get it out again, or destroy the cabinet. Also, there is a slight possibility that glue gases might not be friendly to the driver. It also looks a bit naff IMO, so you need to chamfer the edge to give it a gradient look - back to where you started the problem is just on the other side.
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