I stand corrected... there is certainly enough creativity in that thread for a few moreSix!
This an addicting hobby and I knew I was in trouble when I decided to build this amplifier just to see what it sounded like rather than any specific need. This amp is basically a module from Sure Electronics and a Meanwell switch mode power supply (48 volts at 7.3 amps) both purchased on Ebay. I added four 10K uF capacitors to smooth the ripple from the power supply. In Sure Electronics defense, I have built 2 other amplifiers (TK2050) based on Sure Electronic modules which were built without a hitch. This amp I was not so lucky. The first module I received did not work and unfortunately, I did not start construction until 14 months after receiving the module, which was well past the warranty. So if you order this module, test it as soon as you get it.
Sure Electronics warns about driving this module with a preamplifier saying any voltage from the preamp can burn the input chips out. They also don't like you installing level controls and in their manual they warn against it. I could see their point about too much voltage from an over aggressive preamp and I decided to install 50K pots and a Sure Electronics LED VU meter module to tell me what the relative input level was. I have used the Sure Electronics LED VU meter module before and it is a true bargain.
Sure Electronics claims 300 watts per channel at 4 ohms. I am not sure this is true. I have the module set at the lowest gain setting and I would guestimate the power being approximately the same as a Hafler 200 which would be about 100 wpc which is more than enough power for any home amplifier.
For the purist, this amplifier may not be as pleasing as some others. With no music playing and your ear very close to the speaker, a very faint high pitched hiss (almost a whine) can be heard coming through the tweeter. This noise is not affected by input level and once the music starts, it is not heard. That said, once the music starts, I found the sound to be quite impressive. Off/on transients were a concern, but none are heard when switching on or off.
Overall, I am extremely pleased with this amplifier. Considering the ease of building, the incredibly low cost, I wonder why I should build anything else.
Sure Electronics warns about driving this module with a preamplifier saying any voltage from the preamp can burn the input chips out. They also don't like you installing level controls and in their manual they warn against it. I could see their point about too much voltage from an over aggressive preamp and I decided to install 50K pots and a Sure Electronics LED VU meter module to tell me what the relative input level was. I have used the Sure Electronics LED VU meter module before and it is a true bargain.
Sure Electronics claims 300 watts per channel at 4 ohms. I am not sure this is true. I have the module set at the lowest gain setting and I would guestimate the power being approximately the same as a Hafler 200 which would be about 100 wpc which is more than enough power for any home amplifier.
For the purist, this amplifier may not be as pleasing as some others. With no music playing and your ear very close to the speaker, a very faint high pitched hiss (almost a whine) can be heard coming through the tweeter. This noise is not affected by input level and once the music starts, it is not heard. That said, once the music starts, I found the sound to be quite impressive. Off/on transients were a concern, but none are heard when switching on or off.
Overall, I am extremely pleased with this amplifier. Considering the ease of building, the incredibly low cost, I wonder why I should build anything else.
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SARA - my schematic in a real world. Stereo, 2 x 100W in 8 ohm,AB class, power supply: 2 x 350 VA , 125.000 uF, rectifier bridge 2 x 35 A.
THD (20hz-20khz, 50W-8ohm): no more than 0.002%. IMD(19khz-20khz, 50W-8ohm) no more than 0.003%
THD (20hz-20khz, 50W-8ohm): no more than 0.002%. IMD(19khz-20khz, 50W-8ohm) no more than 0.003%
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Hi Bensen,
I'm afraid this project is for commercial purposes, as Alex stated before (he drawed the PCB). In this case, schematic maybe won't come to the screen...
Yes, I hope it will be a commercial product, but SARA has a downgrade schematic on a romanian electronic forum. It is the best amplifier for me, it has the best sound. Very rich, very warm , very solid sound and a holographic scene.It "capture" signature from tube amps and from powerfull solid state. Maybe I'll start a topic on a DIYaudio forum with that amp dedicated for my daugther. For me it is very clear: if u have a small distortions (not fake measurements) you will have the best sound.
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I guess what I was saying is though it may be 1000W how does it sound? So definitely the guts but if it is sonically a poor performer there is no glory. I have two Aussie amps 600W modules at home yet to be be built into an amp. Definitely powerful but how will it sound?So yours "No Guts" & he's " No Glory" is that it