Hi
I have just bought NAD3020 and tuner 4020B in mint condition in original boxes with manuals for dirt cheap money.
the amp does not play in normal mode, and when I replaced short at rca input preampout to labin it started to play at full power.
What do you think, potentiometer is failed?
Did you have similar failure in yours 3020s?
I have just bought NAD3020 and tuner 4020B in mint condition in original boxes with manuals for dirt cheap money.
the amp does not play in normal mode, and when I replaced short at rca input preampout to labin it started to play at full power.
What do you think, potentiometer is failed?
Did you have similar failure in yours 3020s?
it works!!!
I connected cdplayer with regulated output direct to "lab in" socket and now I am hearing this beauty.
this means the preamp section is dead but to found the failure should not be difficult.
with my 96dB/1W speakers it sound so sweet and detailed, I am curious what will be after 2 hours of warming up...
I connected cdplayer with regulated output direct to "lab in" socket and now I am hearing this beauty.
this means the preamp section is dead but to found the failure should not be difficult.
with my 96dB/1W speakers it sound so sweet and detailed, I am curious what will be after 2 hours of warming up...
Having purchased the original 3020 from Norman H Field in Birmingham. The Hi-Fi News review in 1980, which is in the annual of that year, put the 3020 against the Quad 44/405, Exposure III/IV and Rogers A100 amongst others, an Electrocompaniet I recall too. To say it held its own if not being the recommended model of the test was what gained it its popularity.
Most people recommend it for its pre-amp however the power amp section does hold its own.
The problem of owning one now, is that all the original electrolytic capacitors will have dried out and should be replaced, as the original ones were nothing special this won't cost too much.
The phono stage was lauded at the time for its accuracy, although the polyester RIAA caps do let it down sonically, and substituting metal film resistors lowers the noise floor.
A huge sonic upgrade was to replace the thin mains cable with 13 amp 40/0.2mm strand.
Most people recommend it for its pre-amp however the power amp section does hold its own.
The problem of owning one now, is that all the original electrolytic capacitors will have dried out and should be replaced, as the original ones were nothing special this won't cost too much.
The phono stage was lauded at the time for its accuracy, although the polyester RIAA caps do let it down sonically, and substituting metal film resistors lowers the noise floor.
A huge sonic upgrade was to replace the thin mains cable with 13 amp 40/0.2mm strand.
Working in the PS NAD 3020
Hello, I read all posts and I think very important not to overdo the recommendation in the value of the PS capacitors. See post 16, Piercarlo. I read an excellent review of it, and reveals a technical knowledge of a higher level than everyone else.
My 3020 first said a "minor" niggle, the speakers at power moved (once you put a delay circuit with relay for speakers) excessively, I think Xmax reached the limit. Accompanying this double "blop" as if the source is recharged 2 times.
Besides the power pack had a small vibration that was transmitted to the rest of the chassis.
I Replace the 4 caps of 2200 uF 35 V for another 3300 uF 35 V. (Always put new capacitors of the same voltage or slightly superior work, this tension is that somehow determines the ability to form the dielectric)
The original bridge diodes General Instruments KBL02 is 4 amps x 200 volts. Was replaced by 1 June 1000 amps x volts.
He has returned everything to normal, now I want to adjust DC off-set, and idle current. There is a small millivolt DC terminal block on the speakers.
But do not know if it's worth, I have - 28.5 mv in the left channel and - 70.5 mV in the right channel ..
Write to paolo, meanwhile, have technical and expert opinion is welcome mujy.
Greetings and thanks friends....
Hello, I read all posts and I think very important not to overdo the recommendation in the value of the PS capacitors. See post 16, Piercarlo. I read an excellent review of it, and reveals a technical knowledge of a higher level than everyone else.
My 3020 first said a "minor" niggle, the speakers at power moved (once you put a delay circuit with relay for speakers) excessively, I think Xmax reached the limit. Accompanying this double "blop" as if the source is recharged 2 times.
Besides the power pack had a small vibration that was transmitted to the rest of the chassis.
I Replace the 4 caps of 2200 uF 35 V for another 3300 uF 35 V. (Always put new capacitors of the same voltage or slightly superior work, this tension is that somehow determines the ability to form the dielectric)
The original bridge diodes General Instruments KBL02 is 4 amps x 200 volts. Was replaced by 1 June 1000 amps x volts.
He has returned everything to normal, now I want to adjust DC off-set, and idle current. There is a small millivolt DC terminal block on the speakers.
But do not know if it's worth, I have - 28.5 mv in the left channel and - 70.5 mV in the right channel ..
Write to paolo, meanwhile, have technical and expert opinion is welcome mujy.
Greetings and thanks friends....
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And the fuses ??
Whats the value of this capacitor ?
I was searching this information on many pages and service manuals.
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