I use tin-plated solid wires of 0.8mm or 1.0mm diameter, not insulated.
(1) http://www.jenving.se : The tin is of higher resistance than copper and also protects copper from bad sounding corrosion. It also minimizes the current jumps from wire to wire over corroded copper surfaces while more of the signal passes through the pure copper inside the wires. The tin layer also minimizes the skin-effect, by acting as a semi-Litz.
(2) No insulation because many people claim that any insulation material sucks.
JH
(1) http://www.jenving.se : The tin is of higher resistance than copper and also protects copper from bad sounding corrosion. It also minimizes the current jumps from wire to wire over corroded copper surfaces while more of the signal passes through the pure copper inside the wires. The tin layer also minimizes the skin-effect, by acting as a semi-Litz.
(2) No insulation because many people claim that any insulation material sucks.
JH
A lot of the decision depends upon the exact application. Low level input signals should be with shielded cable - maybe 20 - 24 AWG. Since the shield is grounded at one end, it probably doesn't matter if the cable is insulated or not.
High current output wiring needs to be a higher gauge, determined by what the peak output is. I would not use less than 14 AWG myself. I guess I would try to match whatever gauge wire my speaker cables used - though if you use some really low gauge cable that might not be too practical (i.e. it is difficult to solder 0 AWG wire to a transistor or PWB!).
Medium current interconnections might use something like 20 AWG hookup wire. Any wiring that is not ground should be insulated, IMHO. Teflon insulation is about the best, but good old PVC should work well, though it will melt back a little when the ends of the wires are soldered.
I would use a good quality stranded wire, such as silver plated copper, the more strands the better, but I really don't know if good old tinned wire would be any better or worse.
Jeff R.
High current output wiring needs to be a higher gauge, determined by what the peak output is. I would not use less than 14 AWG myself. I guess I would try to match whatever gauge wire my speaker cables used - though if you use some really low gauge cable that might not be too practical (i.e. it is difficult to solder 0 AWG wire to a transistor or PWB!).
Medium current interconnections might use something like 20 AWG hookup wire. Any wiring that is not ground should be insulated, IMHO. Teflon insulation is about the best, but good old PVC should work well, though it will melt back a little when the ends of the wires are soldered.
I would use a good quality stranded wire, such as silver plated copper, the more strands the better, but I really don't know if good old tinned wire would be any better or worse.
Jeff R.
For signal, I use Van Damme balanced installation cable connected in a psuedo balanced manner
For mains, 2.5mm2 solid copper wire, power runs, the same or I have been experimenting with cat 5, which for low power amps can sound quite good.
For speaker outputs, cat5 again or Van Damme OFC pro.
For mains, 2.5mm2 solid copper wire, power runs, the same or I have been experimenting with cat 5, which for low power amps can sound quite good.
For speaker outputs, cat5 again or Van Damme OFC pro.
16 awg teflon insulated silver plated copper. I got it cheap from http://www.apexjr.com. He may still have some. It is great to solder. The insulation will not even melt by directly touching it with a 45W iron, and the silver plating makes it really soak up the solder fast.
Darrell Harmon
Darrell Harmon
In my experience, minimizing the number of solder joints means more for the sound than using exotic wires (assuming that the wire in place isn't total garbage). Therefore, as much as possible, I prefer to rely on the component leads and minimize the amount of extra wire used (and therefore the number of solder joints).
For low-current applications, I use Audioquest's highest-grade solid-core copper conductor, threaded through oversized teflon tubing. The diameter is about 0.6mm. For higher current applications, I use the same stuff, in larger diameter(s).
regards, jonathan carr
For low-current applications, I use Audioquest's highest-grade solid-core copper conductor, threaded through oversized teflon tubing. The diameter is about 0.6mm. For higher current applications, I use the same stuff, in larger diameter(s).
regards, jonathan carr
Different types of the wires
I have tested XLO, Straight Wire, AudioQuest and Audio Note Wires ( in my system i use on the moment all Wires Straight Wire 3 - 4 level ) but if i must be upgrade all wiring , then only to audio note high level silver cables ( but this is to expensive on the moment ). XLO was quit good and with normal price for me.
Audioquest Granite voice was for me a little bit to agressive and i was sold the cables... but this was only middle level of the manufacturer.
I have tested XLO, Straight Wire, AudioQuest and Audio Note Wires ( in my system i use on the moment all Wires Straight Wire 3 - 4 level ) but if i must be upgrade all wiring , then only to audio note high level silver cables ( but this is to expensive on the moment ). XLO was quit good and with normal price for me.
Audioquest Granite voice was for me a little bit to agressive and i was sold the cables... but this was only middle level of the manufacturer.
KenP said:
This would probably work fine for the input lines, i.e. the input signal and return from the front panel of the amp to the circuit board. Just ground the shield. Some may say the steel ground, being magnetic, will hurt. I would either pull it out or be sure to ground it at one end, along with the shield. Steel may be near impossible to solder, so you may need to secure it with a bolt and nut (thus, I think it would be best to pull the wire out).
I don't think it would work well for the output power lines, though if you tie the ends of the two wires together, the two 18 gauge wires will combine to make the equivalent of a 15 guage wire. For an amp with a moderate power output, this quage would be fine (I am talking about internal amp wiring - from the PWB to the output connectors and I suppose it would work out just fine.
To KenP
You must here yourself the cable. You must have a good audio grade cable and compare the voice of your cable with this cable.
If the sound is smooth and with good dynamic--the cable is good.
But my tests with different cables made for telecommunication, infotecnology ( IT, PC ), power industry are been with no success.
Only special materials made for audio grade, worked right and good...
You can ( if the cable are for AC 220 or 115 V ) test this cable by AC power cord.
KenP said:
You must here yourself the cable. You must have a good audio grade cable and compare the voice of your cable with this cable.
If the sound is smooth and with good dynamic--the cable is good.
But my tests with different cables made for telecommunication, infotecnology ( IT, PC ), power industry are been with no success.
Only special materials made for audio grade, worked right and good...
You can ( if the cable are for AC 220 or 115 V ) test this cable by AC power cord.
just being nosy
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